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Old 09-22-2016, 05:50 AM   #1126
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Default Stock class 17.5t

So my fdr is 6.14 on the yz4 have a few option parts ready to race tomorrow night. Anyway gave it a few runs on grass i notice when turning im going sideways bhap bhap. Used the lee martin setup from spain, Obviously its just a benchmark.tyres are the scrubs and suburbs. Going to change to the aka rebars. Any thoughts what i could be changing ie; maybe weight at the back?
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Old 09-23-2016, 07:24 PM   #1127
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These are worth it! https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-415rs/p509096 helps lock the rear end in ..
Are you running stock arms with that or the suggests arms for that upgrade?
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Old 09-23-2016, 07:50 PM   #1128
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Default Stock class 17.5t

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Are you running stock arms with that or the suggests arms for that upgrade?
Yehh man I have that in. Im gonna go for another burn today on grass. Im thinking loosening the slipper alittle and adjust the clicker.
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Old 09-24-2016, 02:08 AM   #1129
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Are you running stock arms with that or the suggests arms for that upgrade?
I am running the YOKZ2-008R arms with the YOKZ2-01050B bone . works great on low bite dirt. I also shim the ream hing pin mount up 2mm for more rear grip . I will be switching to the L5 arms and L5 hing pin mounts for the winter carpet season .
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Old 09-24-2016, 07:08 PM   #1130
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Default Stock class 17.5t

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Originally Posted by carpetburner View Post
I am running the YOKZ2-008R arms with the YOKZ2-01050B bone . works great on low bite dirt. I also shim the ream hing pin mount up 2mm for more rear grip . I will be switching to the L5 arms and L5hing pin mounts for the winter carpet season .
Yehh im running stock arms but i do have the upgrade with aluminum hub. What setup should i have on the slipper and clicker. How does upgrade the arms work on low bite tracks
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Old 09-25-2016, 06:43 PM   #1131
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Yehh im running stock arms but i do have the upgrade with aluminum hub. What setup should i have on the slipper and clicker. How does upgrade the arms work on low bite tracks
So on low bite tracks you want the narrow 5mm hex on back, and the shorter arm and bone to increase side bite . You also shim the driveshafts so the wheel nut doesn't bottom out .I tried the clicker on carpet and dirt and it sucked. Throw the clicker in the trash and go with the aluminum pulley with pin. The slipper I run the nut about 1mm from flush .
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Old 09-25-2016, 06:46 PM   #1132
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Are you running stock arms with that or the suggests arms for that upgrade?
I change arms when I go from dirt to carpet . Now that it is carpet season I will be running the L5 arms.
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Old 09-25-2016, 09:19 PM   #1133
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Does anyone happen to know where to find a spring rate chart for Yokomo springs? The chart on the petit site doesn't have the rates of the springs I have for my buggy. For instance the rate for these :

https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-a1175/p417649

And also the rates for the matching fronts and so on.

Thank you in advance for any help.
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Old 09-26-2016, 10:17 AM   #1134
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I change arms when I go from dirt to carpet . Now that it is carpet season I will be running the L5 arms.
@carpetburner, Can you run the L5 arms with the stock "S" rear suspension mounts, or is it a requirement to have the "L" mounts?
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Old 09-26-2016, 04:31 PM   #1135
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@carpetburner, Can you run the L5 arms with the stock "S" rear suspension mounts, or is it a requirement to have the "L" mounts?
Not a requirement but you will want to double check the dogbones at full droop to ensure they are not poping out. If they do you can throw some shims between the bearing and axle or add spacers under the shock piston to limit droop.
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Old 09-26-2016, 07:40 PM   #1136
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I run L5 front a arms with S4 rear a arms. Exotek 24 gram front rear hanger alum rear rear hanger Rear inserts center up with front inserts arrow up. No antisquat on low bit diet with higher roll center. The new aluminum rear hubs with 66.5mm CVDs work excelkent with either 5mm or 6mm rear wheel hexes. Saddles centerline or brick pack have worked great on low to med bite dirt and clay tracks.
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Old 09-26-2016, 08:05 PM   #1137
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Originally Posted by carpetburner View Post
Not a requirement but you will want to double check the dogbones at full droop to ensure they are not poping out. If they do you can throw some shims between the bearing and axle or add spacers under the shock piston to limit droop.
Plus 1 on Carpetburner's response. You can run L5 rear arms with non L5 rear hangers. I run L5 front a arms and have 1 shim between the axle and inner hub bearing. Seen some running L5 rears with standard hangers and front wheel hexes as wheel as using 5mm and 6mm hexes. The aluminum tear hangers are great as the inserts allow you to really tune toe in, antisquat and track width.
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Old 09-26-2016, 08:13 PM   #1138
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Just pulled the trigger on one of these babies. Very excited. I bought the 0 degree rear aluminum set. Kinda pricey but is it worth it? I will be running on a small indoor clay track.
You will love them! Purchase the L5 front a arms as the extra 1mm is great plus they are far superior strength wise compared to the standard front a arms.

If you have movement in your front hangers inserts put shims between the insert and front hinge pin brace. .7mm to 1mm does the trick. I would suggest going to BRC on shapeways and purchase his front skid/bumper as it is more robust and is secured via 4 screws. Run a dab of grease/thick diff fluid around the hangers opening to the gear diff thus when you secure your front skid/bumper it will be debri proof.
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Old 09-26-2016, 08:14 PM   #1139
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Oh! The L5 front a arms have worked perfa on low bite dirt and clay. The wider stance is great and again the L5 front a arms are superior in strength.
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Old 09-26-2016, 09:28 PM   #1140
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Just installed the rear narrow belt kit and noticed the layshaft moves from side to side a little bit so does anyone know if this is normal or do i need to shim it up?
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