jpcopeland1

iTrader: (166)

YZ-4 is still going to be the more durable car. Since they fixed the front arms, I haven't broken, stripped, or wore out anything. The 22-4 is an awesome car, but will still be way more fragile due to thin belts, and a bad front arm design. A gear diff and thin belts only really works in on-road. Your asking a lot of those small belts with a 6.5, 5.5 motor is such a heavy car.

asalas

iTrader: (3)

Guys,

When running mod is the rear narrow belt something one shouldn't use? I know it's a stock hopup for generating less drag but I just wanted to know what you think about it.

Thanks

CRF Pilot

iTrader: (7)

But the 22-4 splits its power among 3 belts instead of 2 so maybe that's why it doesn't need that thick of a belt? Either way the new Yokomo cars have definitely caught my interest.

carpetburner

iTrader: (8)

I got a 5.0 turn with 20/87 pinion/spur and the narrow belt holds up great. 2mm shim between topdeck and tensioner and loose setting on the tensioner bye the layshaft. Besides even the thin yokomo belt is about 2mm wider than the 22-4.

carpetburner

iTrader: (8)

The 22- 4 has problems with the front belt design .The 22-4 racers at my club break a lot of front arms .

John Myall

I've been using it since release on super high grip astro turf with a 6.5 Tekin, no problems so far.

Running slightly smaller bearings on the tensioner, to reduce drag as well.

John Myall

I only snapped one front belt in the year I ran a 22-4 & that was possibly caused by a lot of heavy breaking on high grip astro, with the one-way locked.

Never broke a front arm, but they have changed them on the 2.0, to make them stronger. Still won't make me go back to one though

thecman26

iTrader: (112)

I saw a 22-4 2.0 pretty much destroy every other 4wd but it's an upper eschelon driver though. There were xrays and hot bodies in attendance along with many old B44's... Pretty sure no Yokes. I've always been a belt wheeler guy from the XXX-4 G+ and XX-4 personally. I never did prefer the shaft drive wheelers. Would be nice to be able to run in a club race though, not much local turnouts unless big races. Looking hard at this one though!

asalas

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the advice. Would you mind sharing your general esc settings for your 6.5? Timing, punch, drag brake, etc. I'm trying to doggie or a good base esc setup for my yz4.

Cheers

jpcopeland1

iTrader: (166)

Yeah, I notice a lot of people don't have a wheeler class which would suck for me since anything 4 wheel drive is my preferred drive train. on-road, off road 4 wheel is just so much more fun then 2 wheel. Drove the car this weekend, slapped a few pipes, rolled over a couple of times (after I had TQ'd wheeler, and wanted to push the buggy as far as I could). Ended up second after a bad start, lost by 2 seconds. Still very happy as I spazzed the start. Car is legit. Got a lot of compliments on how it looked compared to the other cars on the track.

John Myall

This is what I got from Ellis Stafford when I changed over to Tekin last year;


"I'd start at about 20 on the boost and I set the top revs to 45000 and the start to about 11000. If you need more bottom end just drop the start revs down to 6000 or if this is still not enough then add more boost but anything above 30 and they are crazy fast. I don't run any turbo on mine normally."

He doesn't mention drag brake, but I'm pretty sure I'm not running any.

SAMCRO

iTrader: (2)

Does this car have a center gear diff?

kerby

iTrader: (25)

Slipper

jpcopeland1

iTrader: (166)

Car has natural drag brake due to the belt design. I don't know many people who run any drag brake on any 4 wheel drive.

asalas

iTrader: (3)

Thanks so much, I'll take your advice on board.