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Old 12-31-2015, 07:18 PM   #661
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Anytime!
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Old 01-01-2016, 01:56 AM   #662
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i was asking UK what's the part # for the yz-4 specific part. i'm in the same boat as you because i was just gonna buy the z2-201ba part also. glad i seen this first, now i gotta do some more home work.
i messed up, there is none.
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Old 01-01-2016, 03:49 PM   #663
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So i decided to boil the arms today for 30 minutes and lets just say i was pleasantly surprised, had a couple of descent crashes that would have normally destroyed the arms and they held up just fine, if your having arm breaking problems i highly recommend.
hello, I was wondering is it the flat arms that were breaking on the yz-4 or the gull wings?
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Old 01-01-2016, 08:59 PM   #664
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hello, I was wondering is it the flat arms that were breaking on the yz-4 or the gull wings?
Flat arms, i havn't tried the gull arms, and when i try them i will boil them as well cause no doubt they will be exactly the same, its just good piece off mind cause it really make them heaps more flexible and far less ridged.
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Old 01-02-2016, 09:52 AM   #665
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a few quick part # questions:

is the part # for the aluminum suspension bracket #z4-300rf or #z2-300rf?

when you use the above bracket along with part #z4-300srr, we need to use #b4-300b bushings?

will we need to use spacers #z4-300rfs and #z4-300rrs when using the above suspension brackets?

thanks for any info
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Old 01-03-2016, 03:13 PM   #666
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Can ayone fill me in on the differences between adjusting front caster with at the arms vs at the hub carrier?
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Old 01-03-2016, 03:53 PM   #667
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Ran my yz4 for the first time at a new turf track on Saturday......it was mostly a kit build, but 15k diff oils, and black yatabe springs up front, and green out back. SUPER impressed!!! 1 practice pack before the heats started and I was pretty confident. 3 minutes into my qualifier, and I was on pace to set TQ for round 1, when I lawn darted a double and snapped a front arm. Modded a yz2 front arm to fit, and went out in round two and put it 4th on the grid. 2 minutes into the A main, and I snapped the yz2 arm, coming off the wall ride .....WTF ? It snapped right where the shock mounts, split the hole right in half, and no visible air pockets. I'm still super happy with the car, but now have to pay more and wait for arms from over seas, since amain is still out of stock. �� Can't wait to get back at it !!!
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Old 01-03-2016, 06:02 PM   #668
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Can ayone fill me in on the differences between adjusting front caster with at the arms vs at the hub carrier?
Here's a quote from Lee Martin about a race meeting raced on wet astro describing "rake adjustment". Personally however I would have thought the opposite would be true, ie flatter arms more weight transfer.

Here's my set up from the last Torch meeting, the festive fun race. The track was moist and a bit greasy. My YZ-4 was really good and handled the grease and bumps really well.

A few people have been having problems with a loose rear end on the car, I have a few tips you can think about trying.

Firstly, I know the cars tight, but try to make sure the rear belt is not tighter than it needs to be, if it's way too tight then this will act as a hand brake and we all know how that is on greasy roads!

Secondly, a really good tuning option is the new adjustable front kick up. Speaking simply: the flatter the arm is, the less dependant it is on weight transfer and will make the car more reactive but also more difficult to drive (low bite) having more front kick means the car transfers more weight dependant on throttle or brake. This in effect transfers more weight to the rear on power and then More to the front off power, making the car more stable on power and also better in bumps.
For wet astro I have found that maximum kick up is best, although over 1 lap it's ultimately a bit slower, over a run its a lot easier!

Steering arm, something else you can easily adjust is the steering arm (carbon plate on the outside). If you are in the forward hole then this is the most aggressive steering, if you are in the back hole it's the least aggressive steering. I have found that with less front kick, you need to run the back hole, but with the increased front kick you can get away with moving to the aggressive hole on this arm.

Rear inner pin height, this is the inner hinge pin on the rear arm. You can raise this up or lower it. For low bite, run this high and it will increase your traction when you are on throttle and it's better in bumps. Run this low and it will be better in high bite flat tracks as it reduces grip on throttle and increases corner speed.

I hope this helps a few people, to find perfect set ups takes time. No one really runs on the gym floor/carpet tracks we do, or even wet astro much to be honest! After a few months, we will be more dialed and ready!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 01-03-2016, 06:27 PM   #669
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Switching from the stock rear blocks to the aluminum or steel ones. What are the stock anti-squat, rear toe, etc. settings?
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Old 01-03-2016, 07:12 PM   #670
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Originally Posted by Supertruck1 View Post
Ran my yz4 for the first time at a new turf track on Saturday......it was mostly a kit build, but 15k diff oils, and black yatabe springs up front, and green out back. SUPER impressed!!! 1 practice pack before the heats started and I was pretty confident. 3 minutes into my qualifier, and I was on pace to set TQ for round 1, when I lawn darted a double and snapped a front arm. Modded a yz2 front arm to fit, and went out in round two and put it 4th on the grid. 2 minutes into the A main, and I snapped the yz2 arm, coming off the wall ride .....WTF ? It snapped right where the shock mounts, split the hole right in half, and no visible air pockets. I'm still super happy with the car, but now have to pay more and wait for arms from over seas, since amain is still out of stock. �� Can't wait to get back at it !!!
Boiling the arms for 30 minutes does wonder, i was breaking a front arm at least once an outing till i boiled the arms, 10 races and some big wrecks later still no breakages.
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Old 01-03-2016, 07:18 PM   #671
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Ever since i changed over to a carbon front tower there is no way i can achieve a front ride height of 20mm even with the pre-load nut screwed all the way down and shock mounted on the inside whole on the tower and on the arm, it has been doing my head in, so today i pulled of the carbon tower off and put it up against the composite tower and the carbon tower sits 6mm higher than the composite, no wonder i cant fix the ride height with the shock fully stretched out i need another 6mm, has any one else experienced this, is it a design problem or a one off manufactured wrong shock tower, i am worried to get another one if they all have the same problem, and no its not the gull wing tower, in either case the carbon and composite should be exactly the same with the only difference being the material their made off, , can someone else please check theirs and let me no, cheers
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Last edited by HSV427; 01-03-2016 at 08:17 PM.
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Old 01-03-2016, 09:24 PM   #672
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Ouch! How are your arms holding up everyone??

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Old 01-03-2016, 09:29 PM   #673
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Originally Posted by HSV427 View Post
Ever since i changed over to a carbon front tower there is no way i can achieve a front ride height of 20mm even with the pre-load nut screwed all the way down and shock mounted on the inside whole on the tower and on the arm, it has been doing my head in, so today i pulled of the carbon tower off and put it up against the composite tower and the carbon tower sits 6mm higher than the composite, no wonder i cant fix the ride height with the shock fully stretched out i need another 6mm, has any one else experienced this, is it a design problem or a one off manufactured wrong shock tower, i am worried to get another one if they all have the same problem, and no its not the gull wing tower, in either case the carbon and composite should be exactly the same with the only difference being the material their made off, , can someone else please check theirs and let me no, cheers
I get 20mm at this position with the longer shock end (sd008-RC).. It would give me 18mm ride height with the std shock end. You can run the spring retainer all the way down to the hex part of the body... I think 23/24mm should be possible?
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Old 01-03-2016, 09:57 PM   #674
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Originally Posted by HSV427 View Post
Ever since i changed over to a carbon front tower there is no way i can achieve a front ride height of 20mm even with the pre-load nut screwed all the way down and shock mounted on the inside whole on the tower and on the arm, it has been doing my head in, so today i pulled of the carbon tower off and put it up against the composite tower and the carbon tower sits 6mm higher than the composite, no wonder i cant fix the ride height with the shock fully stretched out i need another 6mm, has any one else experienced this, is it a design problem or a one off manufactured wrong shock tower, i am worried to get another one if they all have the same problem, and no its not the gull wing tower, in either case the carbon and composite should be exactly the same with the only difference being the material their made off, , can someone else please check theirs and let me no, cheers
The carbon towers have an extra hole on the outside that makes it look like a lot but I see only about 1mm taller. That is still enough to eliminate already low ride height. I went through the same thing. I am using the carbon tower for gull arms with my flat arms in the middle hole. It is several mm shorter than stock. I only use one washer in the shock for now, this gives 22mm and some droop for the clay track I run is pretty bumpy.
I have been through a lot of front arms and a couple of bumpers. They will break, boiled or not.
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Old 01-03-2016, 11:08 PM   #675
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The carbon towers have an extra hole on the outside that makes it look like a lot but I see only about 1mm taller. That is still enough to eliminate already low ride height. I went through the same thing. I am using the carbon tower for gull arms with my flat arms in the middle hole. It is several mm shorter than stock. I only use one washer in the shock for now, this gives 22mm and some droop for the clay track I run is pretty bumpy.
I have been through a lot of front arms and a couple of bumpers. They will break, boiled or not.
I really dont get why they wouldn't make it exactly like the composite one, and my difference is a lot more than 1mm, this changes the whole steering geomtry no wonder my buggy drives completely different with the composite tower, i thought it was all in my head, i cant understand how some of these manufacturers think, anyway will the gull tower get it closer to the composite tower, and when you say your breaking arms boiled or not is this because of the gull tower or in general cause ever since i boiled my arms for 30 minutes i haven't had one break.
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