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Old 12-22-2015, 09:33 AM   #616
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Originally Posted by dr_hfuhuhurr View Post
Different motors will work best at different FDR values based on the available torque and RPM.
Sorry but that is the motors' own performance capabilities and no motor will affect or alter FDR. It is an impossibility. I just wanted to clarify for any newer people who may come across that tidbit because it is in fact incorrect.

For the most part, most quality motors are within a similar range of torque and RPM capability with some edging out the rest. The electronics driving them will likely make the biggest difference between them and you will only see such differences when one is in it's optimum range. What is the optimum range? Well, that varies. Some are better in the lower ranges, some in the mid and some in the higher ranges. The ones that are better in the higher ranges will be most noticeable visually because you can physically see certain cars begin to pull away slightly from the midway point of the straight. Those that are better in the low to mid range will be similarly identified when approaching jumps with little run up, as they will be able to hit and land jumps better than others without the need for a long approach.

The only way we can alter FDR is via changing the Spur/Pinion combo and that will change the strains placed on motors.
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Old 12-22-2015, 12:16 PM   #617
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Originally Posted by the incubus View Post
Sorry but that is the motors' own performance capabilities and no motor will affect or alter FDR. It is an impossibility. I just wanted to clarify for any newer people who may come across that tidbit because it is in fact incorrect.

For the most part, most quality motors are within a similar range of torque and RPM capability with some edging out the rest. The electronics driving them will likely make the biggest difference between them and you will only see such differences when one is in it's optimum range. What is the optimum range? Well, that varies. Some are better in the lower ranges, some in the mid and some in the higher ranges. The ones that are better in the higher ranges will be most noticeable visually because you can physically see certain cars begin to pull away slightly from the midway point of the straight. Those that are better in the low to mid range will be similarly identified when approaching jumps with little run up, as they will be able to hit and land jumps better than others without the need for a long approach.

The only way we can alter FDR is via changing the Spur/Pinion combo and that will change the strains placed on motors.
Agree Suggested FDR for most of the quality motors are very very close.
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Old 12-22-2015, 03:24 PM   #618
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Originally Posted by the incubus View Post
Sorry but that is the motors' own performance capabilities and no motor will affect or alter FDR. It is an impossibility. I just wanted to clarify for any newer people who may come across that tidbit because it is in fact incorrect.

For the most part, most quality motors are within a similar range of torque and RPM capability with some edging out the rest. The electronics driving them will likely make the biggest difference between them and you will only see such differences when one is in it's optimum range. What is the optimum range? Well, that varies. Some are better in the lower ranges, some in the mid and some in the higher ranges. The ones that are better in the higher ranges will be most noticeable visually because you can physically see certain cars begin to pull away slightly from the midway point of the straight. Those that are better in the low to mid range will be similarly identified when approaching jumps with little run up, as they will be able to hit and land jumps better than others without the need for a long approach.

The only way we can alter FDR is via changing the Spur/Pinion combo and that will change the strains placed on motors.
I think the guy meant different motors as in different turn
motor. Not differences between manufacturers motors of the same turn...

You are assuming and reading way too far into the statement.

On another note the narrow rear belt conversion is great. Motor temps down about 15 degrees and very free drivetrain.
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Old 12-22-2015, 03:43 PM   #619
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Motor wind, stater type, brushed or brushless, sensored or sensorless...

Doesn't matter, if it's motor related it does not affect gear ratios. Just how fast and how strong it can drive the transmission.

The reason pinion and spur combinations exist is to maximize the output of the motors for specific classes. What is optimum for stock class is usually not ideal for modified classes and vice versa. As such we alter our gear ratios according to what class Motor we are running and the only way we can change it is by trading out either the pinion or spur, or both. The only adjustment you can make two motor is the timing but again you are merely adjusting the speed of the motor and are in no way affecting the gear ratio, just how much power will be pushing the transmission.
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Old 12-22-2015, 03:53 PM   #620
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Antimullet View Post
Motor temps down about 15 degrees and very free drivetrain.
After 4 club races and with the narrow rear belt my drivetrain is still draging...
not sure what else to try?
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Old 12-22-2015, 03:56 PM   #621
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Understood man. You are adjusting the fdr per the turn motor and it's happy spot in the rpm/ torque band. The internal drive ratio of the transmission along with the spur/pinion ratio is the fdr per a particular motor.

Not sure why you are restating this again. Dr. HUf was just saying this exact thing but in fewer words.

In other words, you misunderstood what he wrote. He said the same thing you did.
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Old 12-22-2015, 04:07 PM   #622
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Originally Posted by Panic09 View Post
After 4 club races and with the narrow rear belt my drivetrain is still draging...
not sure what else to try?
There is some minor drag but barely noticeable for my setup I'm running a 6.5t with the stock spur so that added gear advantage masks some of the drag that may be there. If your running a smaller spur and larger pinion for a higher turn motor the drag will be more noticeable.

Also I'm full loose on all belt tensioners.
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Old 12-22-2015, 05:24 PM   #623
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looking at this car hows the durablility
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Old 12-22-2015, 07:14 PM   #624
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Here's a couple of pics of mine.





Where did you get those battery charger wires?
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Old 12-23-2015, 03:06 PM   #625
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YZ4 owners if you want a little more protection regarding the front a arms the following helps.

Cut the front lip off the kits front bumper thus incorporate the front bumper for the YZ2( the bumper has a angled edge that wraps around the backside of the front suspension/a arm hanger. Thus it fills the void on the chassis right behind the hanger.).

More so combining both parts protrudes the front skid plate proud of the front a arm barrels a tad more than the kit skid alone., hence the a arm barrels are less likely to contact the track surface as much being recessed slightly more. I again cut the front lip off the kit skid/front bumper and us CA glue to fully adhere the modified kit front bumper to the YZ2 front bumper/skid plate. Glueing them together is not necessary but it seemed to mesh the two together nice and tight.

Hopefully Yok will release the front hinge pin brace that looks to wrap tight on the chassis basically framing in the sides of the chassis.
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Old 12-23-2015, 04:19 PM   #626
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Hi all, still wondering if anyone knows why the team setups would add internal limiters on dirt when I would expect low grip to want more droop?

Also, when using titanium screws... I know not to use them at the shock top as they bend too easily, but are they safe to use at the bottom to screw the shock into the A arm?

Thanks!
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Old 12-23-2015, 05:57 PM   #627
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Hi all, still wondering if anyone knows why the team setups would add internal limiters on dirt when I would expect low grip to want more droop?

Also, when using titanium screws... I know not to use them at the shock top as they bend too easily, but are they safe to use at the bottom to screw the shock into the A arm?

Thanks!
I believe on the carpet courses they go with no limiters, thus adding droop to better absorb the punishing landings. High traction, high speed, big air lots of inertia to absorb.
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Old 12-24-2015, 01:28 AM   #628
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If they don't run limiters on carpet, you surely won't need them on dirt as well.

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I believe on the carpet courses they go with no limiters, thus adding droop to better absorb the punishing landings. High traction, high speed, big air lots of inertia to absorb.
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Old 12-24-2015, 07:56 AM   #629
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If they don't run limiters on carpet, you surely won't need them on dirt as well.
if you need more rear grip and droop add the yz2 arms ....they also allow more droop without the risk of popping out drive shafts
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Old 12-25-2015, 05:28 AM   #630
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Originally Posted by rkhess View Post
if you need more rear grip and droop add the yz2 arms ....they also allow more droop without the risk of popping out drive shafts
Yep, I use Yz-2 arms with their cross brace cut out, same as I did on the Bmax!
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