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Old 12-17-2015, 07:50 PM   #586
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Here's a couple of pics of mine.




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Old 12-17-2015, 08:00 PM   #587
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Looks Great Jordan!!! Did you get the FDR calculations down? Looks like you did from your previous posts however feel free to ask any further questions you may have as I will help as will others on this thread.

Again looks great
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Old 12-17-2015, 08:12 PM   #588
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Looks Great Jordan!!! Did you get the FDR calculations down? Looks like you did from your previous posts however feel free to ask any further questions you may have as I will help as will others on this thread.

Again looks great
Yes I finally did. I went with 78/29 and it works great on our layout. Thanks again for all your help. It still needs a bunch of work but I'm happy with it right out of the box. Tomorrow will be the first race on it I just picked it up last week. The only other problem I'm having is on power turns the inside front wheel picks up I'm sure stiffer springs in the rear should help.
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Old 12-18-2015, 12:08 PM   #589
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I would go down on your diff oils being you are on dirt. Thus as well run heavier in the front diff and lighter in the rear which should help out. Try 7kf 3kr or 7k 5k and I have heard people running 5kf 3kr. Have you tried your clicker both locked down as well as dialed back?
Running Saddle packs or bricks sets the back end down. Yes it's added weight but that helps as well as the added weight covering more of the chassis rear surface area. Try a little more kick up with your inserts being set to add more neg caster. 2.5. You could try more droop in all your shocks. I have the thinnest limiters inside( more so for a little added protection on the bottom side of the shock piston) thus they are so thin they really aren't limiting my droop. More droop in the front will tend to shift weight towards the backend when you apply power.

You may want to drop your shock oils down a tad being -2.5. I believe AE is a little lighter than other brands.

Also the car needs to a good amount of packs run through it to breaking the diffs and belts.

If you have any drag break set on your ESC dial it way back or even totally off.

I hope this helps and I am sure some of the other YZ4 owners will share their advice.
Are you running the saddle/square transverse or lenghtwise?
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Old 12-18-2015, 01:39 PM   #590
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Are you running the saddle/square transverse or lenghtwise?
Running Saddles lengthwise. But will try them transverse once I make a new jumper.

On another note: has anyone noticed the front aluminum brace tends to be really loose? I glued a plastic shim to the back inner side of my bumper to keep the hinge pin brace tight. Also going to put the YZ2 front bumper/skid on to fill the void on the backside of the a-arm hanger.
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Old 12-19-2015, 03:29 AM   #591
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Are you running the saddle/square transverse or lenghtwise?

I am running saddles perpendicular to the chassis, thus I wil try running standard style but need to rig a low pro jumper.
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Old 12-19-2015, 07:10 AM   #592
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Yes I finally did. I went with 78/29 and it works great on our layout. Thanks again for all your help. It still needs a bunch of work but I'm happy with it right out of the box. Tomorrow will be the first race on it I just picked it up last week. The only other problem I'm having is on power turns the inside front wheel picks up I'm sure stiffer springs in the rear should help.
Sways would stop that
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Old 12-19-2015, 07:14 AM   #593
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Sways would stop that
Just placed a order thanks.
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Old 12-20-2015, 05:13 PM   #594
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I have noticed the front brace moves easily I glued a plastic shim on the inner side of the front bumper to keep the aluminum brace snug.

I think the front hanger could be redesigned thus to make the front solid as well as take stress off the front a arm barrels. Not a huge deal as with releasing new platforms providing total perfection from the start is almost impossible. Yokomo has done an amazing Job with the YZ4 and I believe they will design and produce improvements they feel necessary.
The team guys at the worlds had a brace which clamped around the chassis, hopefully it will come out!
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Old 12-20-2015, 05:14 PM   #595
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Sways would stop that
Yep so far I am finding soft springs but with a heavier than expected sway bar (1.4) at the rear works as a combination!
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Old 12-20-2015, 05:18 PM   #596
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I've now got a couple race days in my dirt car and one on my more standard carpet car, and slowly getting more impressed! Having run both with the steering option parts and without, I would say these are some of the more crucial bits to get, really reduce slop.

I have destroyed a servo horn... Anyone finding suitable alternative horns to use? On the upside the arm did not break in the crash which killed the horn, so looks like they are holding up!

Anyone know why the setups currently posted on petit have more droop for carpet running than dirt? Would expect the other way round! What limiters inside the shocks are you all running? I had 2 limiters on the dirt car and none on the carpet car... May remove a set of limiters as even with the extra droop the car doesn't seem too lazy, and I would think more droop on low grip is better?
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Old 12-20-2015, 05:29 PM   #597
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Norse View Post
I would go down on your diff oils being you are on dirt. Thus as well run heavier in the front diff and lighter in the rear which should help out. Try 7kf 3kr or 7k 5k and I have heard people running 5kf 3kr. Have you tried your clicker both locked down as well as dialed back?
Running Saddle packs or bricks sets the back end down. Yes it's added weight but that helps as well as the added weight covering more of the chassis rear surface area. Try a little more kick up with your inserts being set to add more neg caster. 2.5. You could try more droop in all your shocks. I have the thinnest limiters inside( more so for a little added protection on the bottom side of the shock piston) thus they are so thin they really aren't limiting my droop. More droop in the front will tend to shift weight towards the backend when you apply power.

You may want to drop your shock oils down a tad being -2.5. I believe AE is a little lighter than other brands.

Also the car needs to a good amount of packs run through it to breaking the diffs and belts.

If you have any drag break set on your ESC dial it way back or even totally off.

I hope this helps and I am sure some of the other YZ4 owners will share their advice.
I finally got a good setup for clay indoor or I can call comfortable drive for 13.5 nice and smooth and fast ....I ran at leisurehours raceway was a fun night for practice with 1.6 in front 37.5 yellow spring Ae and 1.7 in the rear 32.5 with white Ae spur 78 pinion 35 was done deal....no more nose down dial in like on road car I was so happy

Last edited by trf415msx; 12-21-2015 at 11:04 AM.
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Old 12-20-2015, 11:02 PM   #598
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I have destroyed a servo horn... Anyone finding suitable alternative horns to use? On the upside the arm did not break in the crash which killed the horn, so looks like they are holding up
I'm using one of the alloy Exotek horns for the Associated cars. The holes line up pretty well, only half a mm or so different.
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Old 12-21-2015, 07:10 AM   #599
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Originally Posted by trf415msx View Post
I finally got a good setup for dirt or I can call comfortable drive for 13.5 nice and smooth and fast ....I ran at leisurehours raceway was a fun night for practice with 1.6 in front 37.5 yellow spring Ae and 1.7 in the rear 32.5 with white Ae spur 78 pinion 35 was done deal....no more nose down dial in like on road car I was so happy
Was the yz4 meant to be designed for carpet/astro tracks like the YZ2 is?
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Old 12-21-2015, 07:16 AM   #600
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It's developed on astro/carpet. With a good tune it should do fine on dirt/clay.
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