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Old 12-15-2015, 09:46 AM   #556
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Hi all,

Put mine through its paces and have a couple of queries:

1. It's terrible on jumps - noses down all the time, and requires full throttle in the air to even keep it able to land... Is anyone else finding this? I have tried moving weight as far back as possible!?

2. Struggling for rear traction... Though more toe has improved this along with weight!

3. I see there is a LOT of play in the front arm inner mounts as the inserts move in the Ali mount... Anyone finding this a problem? I added 1.5mm spacer in front before the brace but now everything has slop! I see the team guys at the Worlds had a different front brace that clamped around the chassis.

Thanks,

Dave
#1.Put all belt tensioners to full loose settings but leave them on. Then run the snot out of the car. It really needs a race or two and you'll notice the drivetrain frees up a ton. Also use the 87 stock spur. And gear accordingly. I tried an 84 and it caused way to much drag and torque loss.
Remove any drag brake from your radio. These steps will solve your issue. You can free it up more by going to the narrow setup which is what I did.

#2 Make sure tire choice is correct. Then try a square pack that's what I run and it is hooked up. I like my cars a little heavier and settled feeling. This light crap is for AE fanboys that spend a ton of money on worthless mods. (I'm joking here don't flame AE guys). Or am I?????

#3 I haven't noticed this issue yet. But if I do get it first thing I'd do is glue the plastic inserts into the aluminum bulkhead. I had to do this when I ran Serpent cars they did this notoriously. When the plastic wears out just knock them out of the bulkhead and put new ones in.
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Old 12-15-2015, 09:51 AM   #557
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What motor are you keeping the 87 spur for? I went smaller for 13.5T.

Can anyone recommend gearing for 13.5?

For comparison sake, I'm running 69/30 in my 2wd 17.5 YZ-2.
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Old 12-15-2015, 06:52 PM   #558
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What motor are you keeping the 87 spur for? I went smaller for 13.5T.

Can anyone recommend gearing for 13.5?

For comparison sake, I'm running 69/30 in my 2wd 17.5 YZ-2.
With a 13.5 in a 4wd buggy you will probably want an FDR (final drive ratio ) of 6.5 to 7. Thus divided the spur gear by pinion = ? Multiply by YZ4 internal gear ratio which I believe is 2.6 however someone will advise if I am wrong. This will give you the FDR.

EX: 87 divided by 20 = 4.35 multiply 2.6(IGR) = 11.31 which would be good for a 5.5

Again this could be off as I am not positive of the YZ4's internal gear ratio.
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Old 12-15-2015, 07:23 PM   #559
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Does any body know what degrees are the standard front c-hubs, i was looking at aluminum ones but they come from 7.5 degrres to 15 degrees. Tia
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Old 12-15-2015, 07:34 PM   #560
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Does any body know what degrees are the standard front c-hubs, i was looking at aluminum ones but they come from 7.5 degrres to 15 degrees. Tia
I believe stock are 10 degree. The aluminum casters I believe your correct as they come in 8, 10, 12.5 and 15. I have the 8 degree aluminum and wish I would have gone up, thus to increase caster I popped in the -2.5 front hanger inserts which seemed to help.
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Old 12-16-2015, 12:49 AM   #561
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Originally Posted by dr_hfuhuhurr View Post
What motor are you keeping the 87 spur for? I went smaller for 13.5T.

Can anyone recommend gearing for 13.5?

For comparison sake, I'm running 69/30 in my 2wd 17.5 YZ-2.
6.5t motor. I wouldn't worry about the spur size, once you break it in and it frees up it should be ok with smaller spurs and higher turn motors. I just noticed the spur change effect when my car was breaking in quite a bit. If I change back to an 84 now with a much freer drivetrain it probably won't be as noticeable.
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Old 12-16-2015, 09:37 AM   #562
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With a 13.5 in a 4wd buggy you will probably want an FDR (final drive ratio ) of 6.5 to 7. Thus divided the spur gear by pinion = ? Multiply by YZ4 internal gear ratio which I believe is 2.6 however someone will advise if I am wrong. This will give you the FDR.

EX: 87 divided by 20 = 4.35 multiply 2.6(IGR) = 11.31 which would be good for a 5.5

Again this could be off as I am not positive of the YZ4's internal gear ratio.
Excellent...My instincts were right. 80/31 for a 6.71 FDR. Can't wait for Sunday! Darkside designs paint ready to go on the cars.
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Old 12-16-2015, 09:45 AM   #563
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I'm running 78/28 on my 13.5 is that much different then 80/31?
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Old 12-16-2015, 10:40 AM   #564
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I'm running 78/28 on my 13.5 is that much different then 80/31?
That would be 7.24 FDR so not too far off from what was recommended. It will vary from motor to motor and track to track so if it's working on the track...
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Old 12-16-2015, 12:30 PM   #565
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That would be 7.24 FDR so not too far off from what was recommended. It will vary from motor to motor and track to track so if it's working on the track...
Thanks for the reply. The only problem I'm having is it seems to top out half way down the straight. I guess I'll just have to keep playing with gearing.
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Old 12-16-2015, 01:40 PM   #566
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That would be 7.24 FDR so not too far off from what was recommended. It will vary from motor to motor and track to track so if it's working on the track...
Dr._hfuhuhurr is correct as recommended FDR can vary from motor to motor.
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Old 12-16-2015, 01:58 PM   #567
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Thanks for the reply. The only problem I'm having is it seems to top out half way down the straight. I guess I'll just have to keep playing with gearing.
You may want to go up ond tooth on your pinion gear.
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Old 12-16-2015, 02:02 PM   #568
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#1.Put all belt tensioners to full loose settings but leave them on. Then run the snot out of the car. It really needs a race or two and you'll notice the drivetrain frees up a ton. Also use the 87 stock spur. And gear accordingly. I tried an 84 and it caused way to much drag and torque loss.
Remove any drag brake from your radio. These steps will solve your issue. You can free it up more by going to the narrow setup which is what I did.

#2 Make sure tire choice is correct. Then try a square pack that's what I run and it is hooked up. I like my cars a little heavier and settled feeling. This light crap is for AE fanboys that spend a ton of money on worthless mods. (I'm joking here don't flame AE guys). Or am I?????

#3 I haven't noticed this issue yet. But if I do get it first thing I'd do is glue the plastic inserts into the aluminum bulkhead. I had to do this when I ran Serpent cars they did this notoriously. When the plastic wears out just knock them out of the bulkhead and put new ones in.
+1 on the square pack. Saddle packs work great as well.
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Old 12-16-2015, 02:09 PM   #569
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You may want to go up ond tooth on your pinion gear.
I'm gonna try that next. After a 5 min heat it comes off @ 140 so I still have some room to go up on my pinion. Thanks
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Old 12-16-2015, 02:18 PM   #570
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I have noticed the front brace moves easily I glued a plastic shim on the inner side of the front bumper to keep the aluminum brace snug.

I think the front hanger could be redesigned thus to make the front solid as well as take stress off the front a arm barrels. Not a huge deal as with releasing new platforms providing total perfection from the start is almost impossible. Yokomo has done an amazing Job with the YZ4 and I believe they will design and produce improvements they feel necessary.
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