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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Yokomo YZ-2
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Old 09-18-2015, 09:57 PM   #1381
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I might be "thick" or something, but I'm not understanding the options on the set-up sheet for the rear hinge-pin holder spacers. I beleive the manual has you inserting both spacers under the hinge pin holders, but the set-up sheet shows an option for above the hinge pin (on the rear-rear). Is that even possible, or am I reading into this wrong?

What does putting the spacer above the rear-rear holder do? Maybe change angle of gearbox? when would you use it?
The rear end assembly is designed for the amount of space the arm holder and the shim take up. Spacer underneath the holder is for high roll center an spacer above is for low roll center. If you delete the spacer, when you tighten the assembly it puts extra tension on the parts.
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Old 09-19-2015, 07:43 AM   #1382
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So the forward-rear should always be installed, then just adjust the rear-rear depending on what roll centre you like?

Many of the set-up sheets I'm seeing (Petirc) don't have the dot filled-in for the forward one so I was assuming that they were not installed, but it sounds like maybe it's a default so they were not marked on the sheet.

Thanks for clearing that one up for me guys
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Old 09-19-2015, 08:43 AM   #1383
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I'm thinking of picking one of these up for stock racing on super high bite clay. What are the absolute required parts other then the kit, the aluminum rear hubs, and ball diff needed on this car? Not worried too much about weight, so if I do get any titanium, it will be taken off of one of my 22's. Thanks. Im not interested in switching to the Bmax rear end since the surface I race on is so close to the grip levels of carpet/astro I wont need it.
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Old 09-19-2015, 11:33 AM   #1384
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I'm thinking of picking one of these up for stock racing on super high bite clay. What are the absolute required parts other then the kit, the aluminum rear hubs, and ball diff needed on this car? Not worried too much about weight, so if I do get any titanium, it will be taken off of one of my 22's. Thanks. Im not interested in switching to the Bmax rear end since the surface I race on is so close to the grip levels of carpet/astro I wont need it.
Good luck, I run on surfaces that require slicks and the cars consistency was never there in kit trim. The Bmax conversion helped this out greatly for stock racing.
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Old 09-19-2015, 11:41 AM   #1385
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Good luck, I run on surfaces that require slicks and the cars consistency was never there in kit trim. The Bmax conversion helped this out greatly for stock racing.
Then I just saved $400.00 bucks lol....
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Old 09-19-2015, 11:52 AM   #1386
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John it will work fine at both LRH and OCRC. I've been running one at OCRC for months and it's money. If you run all the titanium, its going to be under weight, so you would need the under battery weight set. The hubs are nice for durability, but aren't needed. Come to the back room for any setup help..
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Old 09-19-2015, 02:12 PM   #1387
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Ok, back to spending $400.00 lol...
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Old 09-19-2015, 09:06 PM   #1388
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Ok, back to spending $400.00 lol...
I just picked one up and was immediately impressed with the car. I drove it at Outback Raceway which is pretty high bite clay and the car was fast right out of the box. My second lap was within .3 seconds of my fastest lap with my B5M lite. I built the car to STLNLST's setup, but did not have the machined pistons. I ran it with the ball diff. If you build it with the ball diff, you will need shims. I needed .25mm per side. My car weighed 1522 grams ready to race with titanium turnbuckles as the only lightweight parts on the car.
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Old 09-20-2015, 12:46 AM   #1389
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Ran on a loose track Friday night with my B5M but he car that caught my eye was a YZ that was glued to the track and jumped better than most other out there. I never tried the bmax conversion (as I was never hurting for grip) but this seems to help the car out. Still the best car I've owned.
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Old 09-20-2015, 08:17 AM   #1390
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Ran on a loose track Friday night with my B5M but he car that caught my eye was a YZ that was glued to the track and jumped better than most other out there. I never tried the bmax conversion (as I was never hurting for grip) but this seems to help the car out. Still the best car I've owned.
Are you talking about Mike's car in 17.5 sportsman? I watched him on the first night that he brought it out, and thought the same thing. Ultimately, seeing how glued his car looked to the track is what convinced me to buy one and give it a try. I haven't had it out to LSR yes, but looking forward to seeing how it runs there.
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Old 09-20-2015, 08:18 AM   #1391
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The Y-max conversion from factory rc in 10 to 14 days.

Thanks for all everyone help. And it takes 10 mins to Change..
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Old 09-20-2015, 09:05 AM   #1392
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Are you talking about Mike's car in 17.5 sportsman? I watched him on the first night that he brought it out, and thought the same thing. Ultimately, seeing how glued his car looked to the track is what convinced me to buy one and give it a try. I haven't had it out to LSR yes, but looking forward to seeing how it runs there.
Yep..... His car was money all night.
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Old 09-20-2015, 09:45 AM   #1393
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What do yiu gain by running your shocks this way?
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Old 09-20-2015, 11:41 AM   #1394
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What do yiu gain by running your shocks this way?
What exactly do you mean? If you're talking about the rear shocks, running them to the front of the arm is more or less the default setup for high (carpet/turf) grip.
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Old 09-20-2015, 12:56 PM   #1395
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What exactly do you mean? If you're talking about the rear shocks, running them to the front of the arm is more or less the default setup for high (carpet/turf) grip.
Yes sir the shocks location.

Thanx for the information so loose tracks put the shocks in the rear of the tower?
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