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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Yokomo YZ-2
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Old 09-05-2015, 09:28 AM   #1321
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I'm having trouble getting my steering setup to get full throw both directions..... I can make it lockout to the left, but still 2-3mm from locking to the right. I've tried shortening the arm, lengthening the arm, offsetting the servo horn, I just can't get it. Is it not supposed to go lock to lock ?
It just takes some wrenching, just make sure your servo horn is long enough. Lengthening the link and offsetting the servo horn did the trick for me. You may also want to check your transmitter settings. I had to go up to 120% on my T5M as you cannot adjust the length of the link on the AE assembly.
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Old 09-05-2015, 10:17 AM   #1322
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All cars can go lock to lock on the steering and over throw in some. If not check your servo. Obvious is that when you over throw set the E.P.A. (end point adjustment) down, or not enough throw, set it up. Length of horn will give actual more steering response over short, but same throw. Length of steering rod will help adjust centering of wheels, to offset of horn, in some cases readjusting of horn and rod is necessary to adjust for full throw in one direction.
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Old 09-05-2015, 10:21 AM   #1323
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I always adjust my EPA to full throw or lock to lock on all cars. Then I adjust my Dual rate for conditions 100% being max steering, mostly I run the yz2 about 75-85% steering.
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Old 09-05-2015, 10:39 AM   #1324
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Supertruck1 View Post
I'm having trouble getting my steering setup to get full throw both directions..... I can make it lockout to the left, but still 2-3mm from locking to the right. I've tried shortening the arm, lengthening the arm, offsetting the servo horn, I just can't get it. Is it not supposed to go lock to lock ?
I had the same problem. . I had to make the linkage longer .

Then trim sub then to the right then put the horn on angle to the left a little.

Then epa on my futaba radio to get full throw on both sides. It will not be even on your epa steering
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Old 09-10-2015, 10:31 AM   #1325
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ive gotten most of the parts to do my ymax conversion......is there really any reason for me to keep an actual bmax2 anymore ?
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Old 09-10-2015, 10:42 AM   #1326
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ive gotten most of the parts to do my ymax conversion......is there really any reason for me to keep an actual bmax2 anymore ?
I don't think so anymore to be honest. Unless you need rear motor for something.

The Y-max has been .2 a lap faster then my best Bmax2 setup.
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Old 09-10-2015, 10:51 AM   #1327
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thats what i was hoping for !!!!! Thanks RP !!!
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Old 09-10-2015, 11:53 AM   #1328
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I don't think so anymore to be honest. Unless you need rear motor for something.

The Y-max has been .2 a lap faster then my best Bmax2 setup.
Mr. Pike

I think this was Yokomo B-MAX2 MR V3 1/10 2WD Competition Electric Buggy Kit [YOKB-MAX2MRV3]

was $159 last week.

maybe something for us to think about getting..


http://factory-rc.com/ kit is $54.95 plus the parts you need for $86

you at $140+

Is the Yokomo B-MAX2 MR V3 the right kit to have to make it Y-max?
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Old 09-10-2015, 12:34 PM   #1329
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Mr. Pike

I think this was Yokomo B-MAX2 MR V3 1/10 2WD Competition Electric Buggy Kit [YOKB-MAX2MRV3]

was $159 last week.

maybe something for us to think about getting..


http://factory-rc.com/ kit is $54.95 plus the parts you need for $86

you at $140+

Is the Yokomo B-MAX2 MR V3 the right kit to have to make it Y-max?
That's an amazing price for the car. What I can tell you is how I'd do it now knowing that.

I'd by the Yz2 and get the Bmax kit ONLY if I was also running the 4wd buggy. Reason I say this is because the spare shock, parts,etc.

You'd also end up with a spare gear diff which is nice when testing fluids.

However if I was on a tighter budget and or NOT running the 4wd car I'd get a Yz2, the $86 parts and conversion. This allows you to go back and forth without wasting any parts or $$.

I can convert back and forth in about 20 minutes between the two if I have to. I think anywhere the B5m's are able to put power down where the Yz2 struggles the Y-max conversion is the answer.
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Old 09-10-2015, 01:29 PM   #1330
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Thanks sir. Missing the 1x B2-118MR Waterfall support mount from amain.
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Old 09-10-2015, 02:22 PM   #1331
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Thanks sir. Missing the 1x B2-118MR Waterfall support mount from amain.
ill check when i get home, i may have one for you.
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Old 09-10-2015, 02:50 PM   #1332
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then Factory rc kit


Supertruck1 thanx sir.

Still thinking about the change. sir.
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Old 09-10-2015, 11:19 PM   #1333
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You don't need the rear T plate that's for the bmax chassi. You do need the pils or the black inserts for the rear blue front suspension mount.
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Old 09-11-2015, 10:35 AM   #1334
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Also, that's the steel top shaft - if you're running stock, you'll want the aluminum one.
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Old 09-11-2015, 11:24 AM   #1335
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So do I need the

B4-008R1

http://www.mibosport.com/rear-lower-...arm-1mm-longer

or


B4-008R

http://www.mibosport.com/rear-lower-suspension-arm

and the shaft

B2-010RB


or this

B2-010R
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