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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Yokomo YZ-2
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Old 08-27-2015, 06:52 PM   #1276
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86 in parts screws and stuff.

Plus factory 57 so he was right $150 to turn it into a Y-MAX
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Old 08-28-2015, 07:56 AM   #1277
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What is the function of the rubber pads under the diff housing and motor plate support? The one under the little motor plate support just squishes out when I tighten down the two screws thru the chassis
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Old 08-28-2015, 09:11 AM   #1278
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I've been running my YZ-2 and damn I love the cornering, just hoping for a touch more bite. Ended up trying one of these yesterday and found it helped quite a bit. Not RM bite but closer to B5M bite territory.

http://www.amain.com/rc-cars/revolut...rp0011/p231348
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Old 08-28-2015, 09:25 AM   #1279
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I don't like having to add weight to the car just to find grip. This is why I have the Y-max a try. No additional weight, just the grip and handling I was looking for.
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Old 08-28-2015, 09:42 AM   #1280
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OriginalDonk View Post
I've been running my YZ-2 and damn I love the cornering, just hoping for a touch more bite. Ended up trying one of these yesterday and found it helped quite a bit. Not RM bite but closer to B5M bite territory.

http://www.amain.com/rc-cars/revolut...rp0011/p231348
I think the YZ-2 suffers from the same problem as the Schumacher KF2. There isn't enough rearward weight since the motor is further forward than other MM cars like the B5M, RB6, BMax, etc. Since the motor is closer to the CG, the forces the motor exerts on the chassis are lessened due to the shorter leverage. Adding weight helps a bit, but it ultimately only makes the car heavier.
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Old 08-28-2015, 09:42 AM   #1281
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What are the Yokomo Graphite Steering Block Set and the other Graphite items used for?

High bite tracks

Found it lol

This is an optional pair of Yokomo Graphite Front Steering Hub Carriers, with included hub inserts.

These hubs provide improved durability, stability and steering response on high-bite surfaces.

Is this needed?
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Last edited by Motorman007; 08-28-2015 at 09:59 AM.
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Old 08-29-2015, 02:09 AM   #1282
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motorman007 View Post
What are the Yokomo Graphite Steering Block Set and the other Graphite items used for?

High bite tracks

Found it lol

This is an optional pair of Yokomo Graphite Front Steering Hub Carriers, with included hub inserts.

These hubs provide improved durability, stability and steering response on high-bite surfaces.

Is this needed?
Some people will find the need for it, some don't. If your car bounces a little after jumps with perfectly maintained shocks or if you want a more direct feel, give them a try.
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Old 08-30-2015, 10:30 PM   #1283
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I tested out my YZBMaX2! It worked very well on hard pack clay, medium to high bite traction. The car felt very solid and stable. i could push the car much harder through out the entire track! Highly recommend trying the bmax2 tranny change!
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Old 09-01-2015, 08:26 PM   #1284
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Default YZ-2 Setup for Mod on lower bite tracks.

I've been running the YZ-2 in mod for awhile now and run on a track that is low to low/medium bite at best. As mentioned in my previous posts the YZ-2 out of the box has way more front end weight and less rear weight than most other cars. I also believe the front end is very strong on this car as I built a YZ-2 with Bmax-2 transmission and it still has very good steering even if it has 2% more rear weight than my YZ-2. After spending 2 weeks testing the YZ-2 and the YZmax I've come to the conclusion that the way I have my YZ-2 setup it's every bit as good if not better than the YZmax.

I run M4 Electrons at my local track and it's hard packed clay that is mostly dry so traction is not the best.

I've put my setup in 2 pictures as the PDF file was a bit to big and some pictures of the brass parts I use and my car.

The key things on my setup are the B-max4iii rear arms as these give a bit more rear bite.

MIP pucks I feel these improve forward bit and keep the rear end working the same all the time.

Inside hole on the rear arms. This helps stability/traction in my opinion.

Front end is also adjusted to make it less aggressive.

The results is a car that still has very good steering and much more stable and easier to drive. In fact I'm so confident in the YZ-2 the way I have it setup that I'm building the YZmax back into a YZ-2.

I know many want to try the Bmax-2 transmission but I feel there is no need to if you give my setup and parts I use a try. The brass parts will be available around the 15th of September from SMC and are on pre-order now.

The brass front rear pivot weighs 68.8gr and the brass part that replaces the L brace in front of the motor weighs 34.1gr.
Attached Thumbnails
Yokomo YZ-2-yz2p1.jpg   Yokomo YZ-2-yz2p2jpg.jpg   Yokomo YZ-2-yz-2frrearpivot.jpg   Yokomo YZ-2-yz-2lbracebrass.jpg   Yokomo YZ-2-yz-2brassinstalled.jpg  

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Old 09-01-2015, 10:07 PM   #1285
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DS1969 View Post
I've been running the YZ-2 in mod for awhile now and run on a track that is low to low/medium bite at best. As mentioned in my previous posts the YZ-2 out of the box has way more front end weight and less rear weight than most other cars. I also believe the front end is very strong on this car as I built a YZ-2 with Bmax-2 transmission and it still has very good steering even if it has 2% more rear weight than my YZ-2. After spending 2 weeks testing the YZ-2 and the YZmax I've come to the conclusion that the way I have my YZ-2 setup it's every bit as good if not better than the YZmax.

I run M4 Electrons at my local track and it's hard packed clay that is mostly dry so traction is not the best.

I've put my setup in 2 pictures as the PDF file was a bit to big and some pictures of the brass parts I use and my car.

The key things on my setup are the B-max4iii rear arms as these give a bit more rear bite.

MIP pucks I feel these improve forward bit and keep the rear end working the same all the time.

Inside hole on the rear arms. This helps stability/traction in my opinion.

Front end is also adjusted to make it less aggressive.

The results is a car that still has very good steering and much more stable and easier to drive. In fact I'm so confident in the YZ-2 the way I have it setup that I'm building the YZmax back into a YZ-2.

I know many want to try the Bmax-2 transmission but I feel there is no need to if you give my setup and parts I use a try. The brass parts will be available around the 15th of September from SMC and are on pre-order now.

The brass front rear pivot weighs 68.8gr and the brass part that replaces the L brace in front of the motor weighs 34.1gr.
Hi DS1969,
thank you sharing your setup, which i am very much incline to try it out.
however, and i understand that we will need ball diff for this, but unfortunately, we only have the stock gear diff on hand. our local track is sandy and very loose traction, do you have any advise how heavy the diff oil should be?

cheers!
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Old 09-01-2015, 10:14 PM   #1286
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Sorry I've never ran the gear diff. If this is all you have then I would try 1000 oil but I believe in low to medium bite a ball diff will give you better results.

Another thing to note is the rear pills are done to give 4 degrees of toe-in which I forgot to mention. The key to my setup is the extra rear weight. You can still try it without the brass parts and see if it helps. I've spent allot of time testing various setup changes and so far this setup has been the one that generates the most stability.
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Old 09-01-2015, 10:19 PM   #1287
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Which Puck system are you currently using? I know many of us are leaning on MIP to produce a YZ-2 specific set of alloy pucks for 17.5 and I imagine Shiny Pucks for mod.

Thanks for posting your setup.
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Old 09-01-2015, 10:31 PM   #1288
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DS1969 View Post
I've been running the YZ-2 in mod for awhile now and run on a track that is low to low/medium bite at best. As mentioned in my previous posts the YZ-2 out of the box has way more front end weight and less rear weight than most other cars. I also believe the front end is very strong on this car as I built a YZ-2 with Bmax-2 transmission and it still has very good steering even if it has 2% more rear weight than my YZ-2. After spending 2 weeks testing the YZ-2 and the YZmax I've come to the conclusion that the way I have my YZ-2 setup it's every bit as good if not better than the YZmax.

I run M4 Electrons at my local track and it's hard packed clay that is mostly dry so traction is not the best.

I've put my setup in 2 pictures as the PDF file was a bit to big and some pictures of the brass parts I use and my car.

The key things on my setup are the B-max4iii rear arms as these give a bit more rear bite.

MIP pucks I feel these improve forward bit and keep the rear end working the same all the time.

Inside hole on the rear arms. This helps stability/traction in my opinion.

Front end is also adjusted to make it less aggressive.

The results is a car that still has very good steering and much more stable and easier to drive. In fact I'm so confident in the YZ-2 the way I have it setup that I'm building the YZmax back into a YZ-2.

I know many want to try the Bmax-2 transmission but I feel there is no need to if you give my setup and parts I use a try. The brass parts will be available around the 15th of September from SMC and are on pre-order now.

The brass front rear pivot weighs 68.8gr and the brass part that replaces the L brace in front of the motor weighs 34.1gr.
What is the overall weight of the car with all the brass added?
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Old 09-01-2015, 10:58 PM   #1289
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DS1969 View Post
Sorry I've never ran the gear diff. If this is all you have then I would try 1000 oil but I believe in low to medium bite a ball diff will give you better results.

Another thing to note is the rear pills are done to give 4 degrees of toe-in which I forgot to mention. The key to my setup is the extra rear weight. You can still try it without the brass parts and see if it helps. I've spent allot of time testing various setup changes and so far this setup has been the one that generates the most stability.
thank you so much, will try it out..cheers!!
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Old 09-02-2015, 05:08 AM   #1290
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Also, how did you get 4 deg of toe?

Did you use the .5 rear hubs?
Or the 1.0 rear hubs and 3 deg pills?

( B-max4iii rear arms)
Do you not need the longer axle?
And can you just buy the longer part of the cvd? And who had then in stock? Don't need to full set. Amain is out of them..

Yokomo Rear Universal Bone

[YOKB2-010RB]



Thank you
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Last edited by Motorman007; 09-02-2015 at 05:35 AM.
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