FLHX1550

iTrader: (11)

Some tips for rear grip on the YZ - if you are running this car near legal weight (or under) with its front weight bias, I see this car not wanting to transfer weight front to back.

Yes, moving the weight bias back will help this, but try using lower angles of anti-squat and rear toe than you are used to. People are accustomed to 3-4 degrees of both because "that's what I've always run", but with the smoothness of this car I'm having success with 2.5 degrees of toe and 3 degrees of anti squat

MarkA

iTrader: (21)

Try 1.7 pistons on the rear; it'll help with initial rearward weight transfer. Also, pull the lower L brace from the rear - astute observers will note Yoke is running the car w/o it even on carpet now.

teeforb

iTrader: (94)

do you have the exact block id that you are using? for front and rear.

Thanks!

Racing4Evo

iTrader: (2)

Hi everyone,

NEW option parts coming from Yokomo soon.

-Steel Suspension Holders
-Steel Rear Balance weight (20g)
-Aluminum Rear Upper Arm Mount (plus pocket for ballast weight)
-NEW "Black Diamond"(new hard coating TiCn) shock shafts
-Lightweight Slipper Plate Set

-Steel Suspension Holders


-Steel Rear Balance weight (20g)


-Aluminum Rear Upper Arm Mount (plus ballast weight)


-NEW "Black Diamond"(new hard coating TiCn) shock shafts


-Lightweight Slipper Plate Set (not sure why but the actual part pictured looks like it's for B-Max4)

MarkA

iTrader: (21)

Several people asked me how I get the Schumacher U6801 pre-mount fronts for carpet racing that were mentioned on my setup sheet here in the U.S. - my local track has carried them for months but Amain just added them as well: http://www.amain.com/rc-cars/schumac...48144?v=445448

teeforb

iTrader: (94)

Will amain carry it?

teeforb

iTrader: (94)

Are you using the rb6 one? It seems the losi or b5m eliminator would work better.

WillS

iTrader: (32)

Yes the RB6 one. The AE/TLR ones have a smaller shaft which makes them compatible with the Schelle or Avid slipper, which Yokomo and Kyosho will not without a change in the topshaft.

teeforb

iTrader: (94)

Exotek is building the yz2. I take he will make it. I'm using the rb6 eliminator as well. I had to use some spacing as well.

kbish76

iTrader: (8)

Could you clarify what the L brace is? And I was looking at those Pistons but Amain have been out for a while.

Racing4Evo

iTrader: (2)

MarkA is referring to this part:


The name is Motor Plate support.
You can take it off or just take out the two screws on the bottom that connect it to the chassis.

kbish76

iTrader: (8)

What will that do for it? And where/when can we get those new products?

MarkA

iTrader: (21)

More rear flex than running with it, less flex than cutting the waterfall brace.

FLHX1550

iTrader: (11)

Front Blocks Arrow Down - without the spacer under the mount

Rear Blocks are "3" on top with "1H" on bottom with arrows in

Now I haven't tried it, but I'd remove the motor plate brace as a last resort. Not worried about tweaking the chassis, but if you have too much torsional flex, you can run into issues where the chassis will flex in the corner and give you grip on turn in, but the chassis will unload that flex and "snap" you loose.

What would be ideal is a brace that would mount on the tower and mount centrally in the chassis, like a 1/8 scale car. The brace works best long to stretch that flex over as much of the chassis as possible, so it is slower acting when it releases its pressure

mojo tom

I removed the motor plate brace on both my high and low grip YZ and prefer the cars that way, found the car too stiff with it even on carpet.