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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Yokomo YZ-2
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Old 05-18-2015, 04:54 AM   #1066
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Some tips for rear grip on the YZ - if you are running this car near legal weight (or under) with its front weight bias, I see this car not wanting to transfer weight front to back.

Yes, moving the weight bias back will help this, but try using lower angles of anti-squat and rear toe than you are used to. People are accustomed to 3-4 degrees of both because "that's what I've always run", but with the smoothness of this car I'm having success with 2.5 degrees of toe and 3 degrees of anti squat
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Old 05-18-2015, 09:36 AM   #1067
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Originally Posted by kbish76 View Post
3rd club race tonight finished 4th getting better. For loose dry conditions the yok needs a lot more weight. Added the yok weights in battery tray, 27/ 30 rear/front oil w/ machined 1.6 pistons. Kyosho pinks/whites rear/front. Rear hubs moved forawrd and rear shocks top in and bottom in. Next is Ricket RC brass rear hinge pin holders. Also the front end is way to twichy need to find the right direction to tame it.
Try 1.7 pistons on the rear; it'll help with initial rearward weight transfer. Also, pull the lower L brace from the rear - astute observers will note Yoke is running the car w/o it even on carpet now.
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Old 05-18-2015, 11:53 AM   #1068
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Originally Posted by FLHX1550 View Post
Some tips for rear grip on the YZ - if you are running this car near legal weight (or under) with its front weight bias, I see this car not wanting to transfer weight front to back.

Yes, moving the weight bias back will help this, but try using lower angles of anti-squat and rear toe than you are used to. People are accustomed to 3-4 degrees of both because "that's what I've always run", but with the smoothness of this car I'm having success with 2.5 degrees of toe and 3 degrees of anti squat
do you have the exact block id that you are using? for front and rear.

Thanks!
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Old 05-18-2015, 02:11 PM   #1069
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Hi everyone,

NEW option parts coming from Yokomo soon.

-Steel Suspension Holders
-Steel Rear Balance weight (20g)
-Aluminum Rear Upper Arm Mount (plus pocket for ballast weight)
-NEW "Black Diamond"(new hard coating TiCn) shock shafts
-Lightweight Slipper Plate Set

-Steel Suspension Holders


-Steel Rear Balance weight (20g)


-Aluminum Rear Upper Arm Mount (plus ballast weight)


-NEW "Black Diamond"(new hard coating TiCn) shock shafts


-Lightweight Slipper Plate Set (not sure why but the actual part pictured looks like it's for B-Max4)
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Old 05-18-2015, 02:28 PM   #1070
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Several people asked me how I get the Schumacher U6801 pre-mount fronts for carpet racing that were mentioned on my setup sheet here in the U.S. - my local track has carried them for months but Amain just added them as well: http://www.amain.com/rc-cars/schumac...48144?v=445448
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Old 05-18-2015, 06:33 PM   #1071
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Will amain carry it?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Racing4Evo View Post
Hi everyone,

NEW option parts coming from Yokomo soon.

-Steel Suspension Holders
-Steel Rear Balance weight (20g)
-Aluminum Rear Upper Arm Mount (plus pocket for ballast weight)
-NEW "Black Diamond"(new hard coating TiCn) shock shafts
-Lightweight Slipper Plate Set

-Steel Suspension Holders


-Steel Rear Balance weight (20g)


-Aluminum Rear Upper Arm Mount (plus ballast weight)


-NEW "Black Diamond"(new hard coating TiCn) shock shafts


-Lightweight Slipper Plate Set (not sure why but the actual part pictured looks like it's for B-Max4)
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Old 05-18-2015, 06:36 PM   #1072
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The exotek is the only one I have found to fit. You need to use a 2mm spacer behind it though to clear the motor plate.
Are you using the rb6 one? It seems the losi or b5m eliminator would work better.
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Old 05-18-2015, 06:47 PM   #1073
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Originally Posted by teeforb View Post
Are you using the rb6 one? It seems the losi or b5m eliminator would work better.
Yes the RB6 one. The AE/TLR ones have a smaller shaft which makes them compatible with the Schelle or Avid slipper, which Yokomo and Kyosho will not without a change in the topshaft.
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Old 05-18-2015, 07:38 PM   #1074
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Exotek is building the yz2. I take he will make it. I'm using the rb6 eliminator as well. I had to use some spacing as well.
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Old 05-19-2015, 10:13 AM   #1075
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkA View Post
Try 1.7 pistons on the rear; it'll help with initial rearward weight transfer. Also, pull the lower L brace from the rear - astute observers will note Yoke is running the car w/o it even on carpet now.
Could you clarify what the L brace is? And I was looking at those Pistons but Amain have been out for a while.
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Old 05-19-2015, 10:21 AM   #1076
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kbish76 View Post
Could you clarify what the L brace is? And I was looking at those Pistons but Amain have been out for a while.
MarkA is referring to this part:


The name is Motor Plate support.
You can take it off or just take out the two screws on the bottom that connect it to the chassis.
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Old 05-19-2015, 11:19 AM   #1077
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Racing4Evo View Post
MarkA is referring to this part:


The name is Motor Plate support.
You can take it off or just take out the two screws on the bottom that connect it to the chassis.
What will that do for it? And where/when can we get those new products?
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Old 05-19-2015, 11:23 AM   #1078
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What will that do for it?
More rear flex than running with it, less flex than cutting the waterfall brace.
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Old 05-19-2015, 08:53 PM   #1079
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teeforb View Post
do you have the exact block id that you are using? for front and rear.

Thanks!
Front Blocks Arrow Down - without the spacer under the mount

Rear Blocks are "3" on top with "1H" on bottom with arrows in

Now I haven't tried it, but I'd remove the motor plate brace as a last resort. Not worried about tweaking the chassis, but if you have too much torsional flex, you can run into issues where the chassis will flex in the corner and give you grip on turn in, but the chassis will unload that flex and "snap" you loose.

What would be ideal is a brace that would mount on the tower and mount centrally in the chassis, like a 1/8 scale car. The brace works best long to stretch that flex over as much of the chassis as possible, so it is slower acting when it releases its pressure
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Old 05-20-2015, 07:57 AM   #1080
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I removed the motor plate brace on both my high and low grip YZ and prefer the cars that way, found the car too stiff with it even on carpet.
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