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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Yokomo YZ-2
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Old 04-03-2015, 05:57 PM   #916
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Originally Posted by FLHX1550 View Post
My advice would be to take the weight out of the back of the car and move it forward.

On my preparation for the race on clay (my first experience on dirt with the YZ) I prepped the car wit Lee's setup from cactus. By the end of practice I was back to being very close to where I was on carpet with the setup (short of shock oil and rear link). Even on dirt, the car feels better and better the more forward the weight bias is.

And it's not like it's slow, I qualified 6th overall and as high as 3rd in the first round of qualifying in 17.5. Finished 7th with some horrific first lap traffic, but I'd consider it to be respectable for a car that's "only good on carpet" ( and driven by a 40 year old amongst teenagers)

Does not work for me on low grip running mod motor though, I would have loved a rear link assembly made of brass to put weight up and at the rearmost part of the car (and remove 50g lipo weight).

Car is capable on low grip, I got 50g underlipo, around 35g behind motor and a brass rear hanger and could have used some more weight on the rear.
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Old 04-03-2015, 07:57 PM   #917
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Originally Posted by mojo tom View Post
Does not work for me on low grip running mod motor though, I would have loved a rear link assembly made of brass to put weight up and at the rearmost part of the car (and remove 50g lipo weight).

Car is capable on low grip, I got 50g underlipo, around 35g behind motor and a brass rear hanger and could have used some more weight on the rear.
If anyone is interested I could post my setup, but honestly taking the weight out from under the battery and take the weight under the trans and put it under the steering rack.
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Old 04-03-2015, 08:30 PM   #918
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So would you not recommend messing with front droop too drastically?
Go with what works for you. You won't know what droop does until you try it. I liked the feel of the car with my setup and never had to add weight to the rear to get it to hook up.
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Old 04-04-2015, 06:57 AM   #919
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This car is awesome! I'm looking into buying another for 17.5.
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Old 04-04-2015, 10:28 AM   #920
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My clay setup

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Yokomo YZ-2-yz2setupdavebeam.jpg  
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Old 04-06-2015, 01:25 AM   #921
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Really?? I'll try it, but my experience has been that the car is super loose without some weight in the rear

I tried to get the same weight as the arrowmax rear bulkhead from the bmax2 part on saturday at a med traction outdoor track. it was a donut machine with 35grams there.

took the weight out of it and bang fast.

anyway i have gone around .8 faster lap time then my bmax2 and it was only 1.1 sec from my best 4wd lap.....

maybe my 4wd needs some work
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Old 04-06-2015, 03:56 AM   #922
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Why are some opting to use bmax2 driveshafts?
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Old 04-06-2015, 07:26 AM   #923
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Why are some opting to use bmax2 driveshafts?
Because the stock ones are too short to run full droop with the stock YZ arm much less the longer BMax arm
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Old 04-08-2015, 02:18 PM   #924
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Yz2 ball diff are in stock. And TI turnbuckles.

I just ordered another yz2
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Old 04-08-2015, 11:09 PM   #925
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What's the shim size for the diffs
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Old 04-08-2015, 11:18 PM   #926
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10mm
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Old 04-08-2015, 11:20 PM   #927
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What's the shim size for the diffs
http://www.amain.com/rc-cars/yokomo-10mm-stainless-steel-shim-kit-30-yokzc-s100s/p242340

Any 10mm inner diameter shim will work.
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Old 04-08-2015, 11:50 PM   #928
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Thanks
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Old 04-09-2015, 12:13 AM   #929
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Anybody looking to sell a Yz2 then let me know
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Old 04-11-2015, 12:51 AM   #930
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Issue with carbon fiber battery brace popping out from under the rear chassis brace. More than once. Most likely by casing a jump. Anyone have this problem? Chassis flex!
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