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Old 04-02-2015, 06:37 AM   #901
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Originally Posted by carpetburner View Post
5x8x2.5mm I believe. Saw on the avid site were it indicates their bearing kit does not include it. I am gonna piece out all the ball diff parts separately too. Goin with the bfast stuff.
Yep! That size is correct. I parted the diff out and I already had the bearings and balls. However, I noticed I had to shim the Yok ball diff as well.
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Old 04-02-2015, 07:00 AM   #902
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Yeah I am going to order the b-fast as well. Just to make sure though the B-max2 will fit the yz-2 right? And ceramic on diff balls and carbide on thrust? Or other way around?
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Old 04-02-2015, 07:29 AM   #903
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Carbide diff balls ceramic thrust.
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Old 04-02-2015, 08:21 AM   #904
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Originally Posted by pumpkinfish View Post
I have been running the buggy on med-med/high bite clay and it is very easy to drive. Once I got a neutral setup on the buggy it felt a lot better. Now if i could drive better it would be unbeatable! I will say at this moment, I have been doing better with my YZ-2 than i ever did with the B5m.
Thats interesting to know. I thought it would have worse rear traction than a b5m.
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Old 04-02-2015, 09:29 AM   #905
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It does Have less Forward Bite than the b5. Its Comparable in that sense to a kyosho where i was always fighting for rear bite.
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Old 04-02-2015, 06:17 PM   #906
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Racing this weekend on a med bite clay track with many who were running B5's I was complimented on how well my YZ looked.

With the corner speed and how much this car can rotate I believe one can get the car to look or feel looser than the B5 if you over drive it. But what I learned this weekend is that you can run longer rear links and not sacrifice the rotation you would normally experience.

My advice is not to try to set this car up like other cars and learn / test what changes work. To be honest, things on this car work that shouldn't, it's easiest to just start with a clean sheet.
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Old 04-02-2015, 06:51 PM   #907
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Interesting
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Old 04-02-2015, 11:13 PM   #908
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Originally Posted by FLHX1550 View Post
Racing this weekend on a med bite clay track with many who were running B5's I was complimented on how well my YZ looked.

With the corner speed and how much this car can rotate I believe one can get the car to look or feel looser than the B5 if you over drive it. But what I learned this weekend is that you can run longer rear links and not sacrifice the rotation you would normally experience.

My advice is not to try to set this car up like other cars and learn / test what changes work. To be honest, things on this car work that shouldn't, it's easiest to just start with a clean sheet.

I've raced twice on med-high bite clay and I have made huge improvements when switching to the stlnst setup. I race stock and and I used to race a b5m. What this car lacks in forward bite it more than makes up for in corner speed which is how you win in stock. I find it very easy to make passes on other cars in stock (which are all b5ms at my track) because this car carries so much more speed at the apex

Currently I am racing at 1528 grams with a lightweight body, titanium screws and turnbuckles and 42 grams of lead weight added to the rear - 35 grams between the motor and suspension block and 7 grams stuck to the back.

I think rear bite could still be improved. i think the car just needs more droop in the front. At first I plan to remove all the limiters from the front shocks and back out the eyelet 2 turns. If this doesn't give me enough droop I may try the shorter gulling tower with straight arms. This would be extreme but I just want to see what will happen
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Old 04-03-2015, 04:56 AM   #909
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Front shock shaft length 22mm and rear at 29mm with the bmax rear dog bones were lights out for me. I ran on medium bite at best against some pretty fat B5's with pucks systems. Car does carry killer corner speed. Car is light depending on your electronics setup. My car was 1539 without any ti screws or turnbuckles and no weight added.
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Old 04-03-2015, 05:55 AM   #910
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Front shock shaft length 22mm and rear at 29mm with the bmax rear dog bones were lights out for me. I ran on medium bite at best against some pretty fat B5's with pucks systems. Car does carry killer corner speed. Car is light depending on your electronics setup. My car was 1539 without any ti screws or turnbuckles and no weight added.
So would you not recommend messing with front droop too drastically?
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Old 04-03-2015, 07:47 AM   #911
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I really really hate to do this but,

Yokomo YZ-2 ARTR
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Old 04-03-2015, 07:52 AM   #912
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My advice would be to take the weight out of the back of the car and move it forward.

On my preparation for the race on clay (my first experience on dirt with the YZ) I prepped the car wit Lee's setup from cactus. By the end of practice I was back to being very close to where I was on carpet with the setup (short of shock oil and rear link). Even on dirt, the car feels better and better the more forward the weight bias is.

And it's not like it's slow, I qualified 6th overall and as high as 3rd in the first round of qualifying in 17.5. Finished 7th with some horrific first lap traffic, but I'd consider it to be respectable for a car that's "only good on carpet" ( and driven by a 40 year old amongst teenagers)
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Old 04-03-2015, 10:53 AM   #913
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FLHX1550 View Post
My advice would be to take the weight out of the back of the car and move it forward.

On my preparation for the race on clay (my first experience on dirt with the YZ) I prepped the car wit Lee's setup from cactus. By the end of practice I was back to being very close to where I was on carpet with the setup (short of shock oil and rear link). Even on dirt, the car feels better and better the more forward the weight bias is.

And it's not like it's slow, I qualified 6th overall and as high as 3rd in the first round of qualifying in 17.5. Finished 7th with some horrific first lap traffic, but I'd consider it to be respectable for a car that's "only good on carpet" ( and driven by a 40 year old amongst teenagers)

Really?? I'll try it, but my experience has been that the car is super loose without some weight in the rear
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Old 04-03-2015, 12:41 PM   #914
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Really?? I'll try it, but my experience has been that the car is super loose without some weight in the rear
In my experience, regardless of the car, its that adding weight in the rear can make it loose due to "swing weight" where the back of the car wants to swing out vs rotate due to the added weight.

I started off with the battery back, under battery weight, and 30gr under the trans and ended up taking the battery weight and trans weight out, moving the batt forward and running the Yokomo EU solid brass front bulkhead.

Now mind you I am running max droop ( no shims in the shocks, front shock ends turned out 1.5 turns and rear shock ends turned out 2 turns ) so I'm not experiencing and wheel lift, and run 20-21mm of ride height. I was also running very light oil with 3x1.4s - AE30wt in the front and 2x1.6s - AE25wt in the rear ( it was cool, maybe 50-60 degrees all weekend ) but prior to dropping the oil the car was a handful. The sidebite really came up with the lower oil and the droop.
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Old 04-03-2015, 02:11 PM   #915
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I think this is a good point you're making. adding weight to the rear creates a pendulum affect. There's a threshold to how much force is created with the pendulum affect along with the mu threshold to break side bite friction. Yes rear weight will increase the mu of the side bite friction. However, that same weight creates a pendulum force that counter acts the mu of the side bite friction. I think the pendulum affect maybe greater for MM...


Quote:
Originally Posted by FLHX1550 View Post
In my experience, regardless of the car, its that adding weight in the rear can make it loose due to "swing weight" where the back of the car wants to swing out vs rotate due to the added weight.

I started off with the battery back, under battery weight, and 30gr under the trans and ended up taking the battery weight and trans weight out, moving the batt forward and running the Yokomo EU solid brass front bulkhead.

Now mind you I am running max droop ( no shims in the shocks, front shock ends turned out 1.5 turns and rear shock ends turned out 2 turns ) so I'm not experiencing and wheel lift, and run 20-21mm of ride height. I was also running very light oil with 3x1.4s - AE30wt in the front and 2x1.6s - AE25wt in the rear ( it was cool, maybe 50-60 degrees all weekend ) but prior to dropping the oil the car was a handful. The sidebite really came up with the lower oil and the droop.
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