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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Yokomo YZ-2
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Old 03-29-2015, 08:44 PM   #871
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pumpkinfish View Post
Associated White all four corners
Thanks
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Old 03-30-2015, 10:23 PM   #872
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YOKOMO YZ WITH EXTRAS



It's been fun but it's gotta go
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Old 03-31-2015, 06:10 AM   #873
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Went to wrl final this past weekend in Columbus ohio. First runs of the car and I have to say I'm very impressed with its ability to carve the corners like no other. Took tq and win in stock and made the main in mod. Overall in mod car lacked a bit of consistent rear grip throughout the corner. But it was good being the first runs. In stock car was amazing. Half a second clear of anyone else's fast laps. Just brilliant. No hopups no pucks. Just motor and gearing change for stock.
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Old 03-31-2015, 07:37 AM   #874
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Ready to run, my yz2 is 1460 grams! I added 3 7g weights under the tranny. Itching to get it out on the track.
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Old 03-31-2015, 08:03 AM   #875
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For mod, try 3.5 deg rear toe
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Old 03-31-2015, 10:18 AM   #876
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No 3.5 when dust starts to form tends to over exaggerate the looseness of a car. It's good on wet clay but with dust not the way
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Old 03-31-2015, 03:29 PM   #877
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I have a quick question... I built my YZ-2 and while doing so the front upper arm mount the goes into the front lower suspension mount was SUPER tight going into the holes... I pressed it in (all by hand, no vice or anything ) and got it pretty stuck, so I had to turn the chassis over and push on it really hard to pop it out of the lower mount. I held it in my hands the whole time, never put it into any vice to hold it or anything...

Could I have possibly bent the chassis or the upper arm mount? The chassis flexed a bit (like barely), but maybe it is just my OCD worrying about it... LOL

I guess I am asking would it be possible to bend the chassis or arm mount by hand? How strong is aluminum?

I ended up using a very fine sand paper to sand down the nipples of the upper arm mount ever so slightly so that it just goes right into the lower arm mount and sits flush.

Thanks!

Last edited by sstriano; 03-31-2015 at 03:47 PM.
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Old 03-31-2015, 03:48 PM   #878
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sstriano View Post
I have a quick question... I built my YZ-2 and while doing so the front upper arm mount the goes into the front lower suspension mount was SUPER tight going into the holes... I pressed it in (all by hand, no vice or anything ) and got it pretty stuck, so I had to turn the chassis over and push on it really hard to pop it out of the lower mount. I held it in my hands the whole time, never put it into any vice to hold it or anything...

Could I have possibly bent the chassis or the upper arm mount? The chassis flexed a bit, but maybe it is just my OCD worrying about it... LOL

I ended up using a very fine sand paper to sand down the nipples of the upper arm mount ever so slightly so that it just goes right into the lower arm mount and sits flush.

Thanks!
A few people encountered this as well. It looks like the anodizing was a little too thick on that part. They also lightly sanded the black anodizing like you. You don't have anything to worry about.
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Old 03-31-2015, 03:54 PM   #879
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A few people encountered this as well. It looks like the anodizing was a little too thick on that part. They also lightly sanded the black anodizing like you. You don't have anything to worry about.
So I didn't bend my chassis pushing it back out?

Thanks
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Old 03-31-2015, 04:55 PM   #880
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Anybody have a pair they can sell?

http://www.amain.com/rc-cars/yokomo-...-415sa/p417700
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Old 03-31-2015, 09:37 PM   #881
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Use a spare piece of graphite or fiberglass. Drill then cut out with dremmel
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Old 04-01-2015, 08:36 AM   #882
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What springs are you guys using for med bite indoor clay track?
I was running losi low freq orange and green on the front and hi-freq whites on the rear
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Old 04-01-2015, 09:20 AM   #883
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Originally Posted by pumpkinfish View Post
Hey guys, I have been running STLNLST's setup and it has been great so far until today. When ever I was going around the 180 turns, my inside rear wheel was lifting. I tried going to the rear inside tower hole and it was better, but it was still lifting. Any ideas what I can do?
I would try lowering rear roll center or raising the roll center of the front
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Old 04-01-2015, 01:52 PM   #884
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I bought the 30 deg front suspension mount and on mibosport it says it's for high traction, why would you want more kick up in high traction ? Thanks
Anyone able to help me out with this ? Is it cause the added kick up shortens the wheel base slightly when the suspension compresses in the corner ?
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Old 04-01-2015, 03:47 PM   #885
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Anyone able to help me out with this ? Is it cause the added kick up shortens the wheel base slightly when the suspension compresses in the corner ?
This is from The Diggity Designs tuning guide:

+ Adding caster to your car will give it less aggressive
steering entering corners but will give it more steering mid
cornering and exiting corners. It will also keep your car more
stable in bumpier conditions and straight lines. NOTE: you
will always have more steering with more caster especially
when running on high traction tracks and or soft tires.

- Running your kit with less caster will give it more
aggressive steering entering corners but will give it less
steering mid cornering and exiting corners. It will make your
car less stable in straight lines and can be used to take
traction away on high traction tracks.
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