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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Yokomo YZ-2
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Old 03-26-2015, 02:06 PM   #841
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Originally Posted by Speedychris22 View Post
I am really considering giving this car a shot. Currently Im running a Kyosho RB6. Has anyone come from an RB6 and could give me some insight on the feel of this car?
IMO they handle very similar.
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Old 03-26-2015, 04:54 PM   #842
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The only place I know of that carries parts is A-main. Is there another store we don't know about?
A place in So. Cal called Pegasus Hobbies carries everything and I will be in the area this weekend. I called to see and they are out as well.
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Old 03-26-2015, 05:55 PM   #843
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Originally Posted by Speedychris22 View Post
I am really considering giving this car a shot. Currently Im running a Kyosho RB6. Has anyone come from an RB6 and could give me some insight on the feel of this car?
Yz2 better parts and quality. Rb6 performance is proven. It's hasn't been enough time to come with rb6 performance. I own both. Rb6 will be my main 17.5 buggy. Yz2 will be my occasional 13.5 buggy
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Old 03-26-2015, 05:59 PM   #844
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That is interesting. This is the first time I have ever heard of drilling first. Heck, the military didn't even train to drill first on plunge cutting. Reason it has to be plunge cut on the mill is due to the fact your starting the cut nearly on the edge of the ring groove and a regular drill bit will walk all over the place.
I have no idea how you are trying to cut, but the tool you were using before isn't ground on the end and isn't made to plunge.

I had assumed you were trying to break thru to the ID, hence suggesting to drill it out first.
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Old 03-26-2015, 06:05 PM   #845
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Looking at Lee Martin setup, he swaps the rear arms on the YZ2 and bmax4. What does this do for for both cars?
There is more to it than just the arm swap, you need to change the 6.0mm hex to the 5.3mm hex from the BMax4 so the rear width is correct.

The BMax arm is slightly shorter, makes the car roll more in the corner (its biggest effect is Roll-Center, which it slightly lowers). It will also give some on power rear bite / weight transfer.

Funny thing is, on the BMax4, they are changing it to run the YZ arms to calm the back of it down.
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Old 03-26-2015, 06:43 PM   #846
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There is more to it than just the arm swap, you need to change the 6.0mm hex to the 5.3mm hex from the BMax4 so the rear width is correct.

The BMax arm is slightly shorter, makes the car roll more in the corner (its biggest effect is Roll-Center, which it slightly lowers). It will also give some on power rear bite / weight transfer.

Funny thing is, on the BMax4, they are changing it to run the YZ arms to calm the back of it down.
Yeah I did the 5.3 too. Giving it a try tomorrow. May try the YZ on Bmax4 nothing wrong with testing.
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Old 03-26-2015, 07:41 PM   #847
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Originally Posted by FLHX1550 View Post
There is more to it than just the arm swap, you need to change the 6.0mm hex to the 5.3mm hex from the BMax4 so the rear width is correct.

The BMax arm is slightly shorter, makes the car roll more in the corner (its biggest effect is Roll-Center, which it slightly lowers). It will also give some on power rear bite / weight transfer.

Funny thing is, on the BMax4, they are changing it to run the YZ arms to calm the back of it down.
Bmax4-3 arm is about 1.5mm longer and the hex is 5.0. The longer arm provides more stability as compared to a shorter arm. This also creates a wider rear end to the car creating more high speed steering.

This is information is from Hudy. And applies to all manufacturers...

Track-width is the distance between the outside edges of the wheels, front or rear, and it affects the car’s handling and steering response. It is important that front or rear track width is adjusted symmetrically, meaning that the left and right wheels (at one end of the car) must be the same distance from the centerline of the chassis.

EFFECTS OF TRACK-WIDTH ADJUSTMENT

FRONT TRACK-WIDTH

Wider
• Decreases front grip
• Increases understeer
• Slower steering response
• Use to avoid traction rolling

Narrower
• Increases front grip
• Decreases understeer
• Faster steering response

REAR TRACK-WIDTH

Wider
• Increases rear grip at corner entry
• Increases high-speed on-throttle steering
• Use to avoid traction rolling

Narrower
• Increases grip at corner exit
• Increases high-speed understeer
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Old 03-26-2015, 07:51 PM   #848
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Install the Bmax2 rear arm, it's it the same length?
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Old 03-26-2015, 08:00 PM   #849
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Originally Posted by jmoneym View Post
Install the Bmax2 rear arm, it's it the same length?
The design on the bmax2 arm is different. The Bmax4-3 arms are the same design only longer (and even have another arm that is 1mm longer yet).

Any of these 3 arms can be used to tune for the YZ-2 and Bmax4-3.

Lengths from shortest to longest
  • YZ-2 (Z2-008R)
  • Bmax4-3 Stock (B4-008R)
  • Bmax4-3 Long (B4-008R1)
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Old 03-26-2015, 08:08 PM   #850
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I took a bmax4 and Bmax2 arm intallled the inner, outer pins side by side they were the same length.
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Old 03-26-2015, 08:33 PM   #851
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Originally Posted by jmoneym View Post
I took a bmax4 and Bmax2 arm intallled the inner, outer pins side by side they were the same length.
The BMax2 & BMax4 VIII arm are the same length, the arm for the BMax4VII is the "R1" arm mentioned above is longer yet. That car had the hinge pins closer together.

However these changes are meant to change just the location of the outer hinge pin. One should be compensating with narrower / wider hexs to keep the same width.

YZ Arm - 6mm Hex
008R Arm - 5mm Hex w/ (2) .2mm shim
008R1 Arm - 5mm Hex (no shims - which will be .5mm wider per side vs the 8R / 5mm & shims above)

You can increase or decrease the rear Width but you can tune out the gains you are gaining by changing the arm in the first place.

My advice is try it and learn what it does. I've been running the YZ arm setup on carpet and the BM arm and hexs on dirt (trying to keep the same width).

I don't have a set to measure, but I think the 008R1 arm had .5 degree less toe (they ran .5 degree hubs on that car).

Some of Martin's setups mention adjusting the hexs when changing arms, some don't. But the R1 arm with 6mm hexs will be very wide and will make the car hard to steer (and will more than likely not pass thru a tech box if you were at a race with one)
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Old 03-26-2015, 08:49 PM   #852
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Originally Posted by FLHX1550 View Post
The BMax2 & BMax4 VIII arm are the same length, the arm for the BMax4VII is the "R1" arm mentioned above is longer yet. That car had the hinge pins closer together.

However these changes are meant to change just the location of the outer hinge pin. One should be compensating with narrower / wider hexs to keep the same width.

YZ Arm - 6mm Hex
008R Arm - 5mm Hex w/ (2) .2mm shim
008R1 Arm - 5mm Hex (no shims - which will be .5mm wider per side vs the 8R / 5mm & shims above)

You can increase or decrease the rear Width but you can tune out the gains you are gaining by changing the arm in the first place.

My advice is try it and learn what it does. I've been running the YZ arm setup on carpet and the BM arm and hexs on dirt (trying to keep the same width).

I don't have a set to measure, but I think the 008R1 arm had .5 degree less toe (they ran .5 degree hubs on that car).

Some of Martin's setups mention adjusting the hexs when changing arms, some don't. But the R1 arm with 6mm hexs will be very wide and will make the car hard to steer (and will more than likely not pass thru a tech box if you were at a race with one)
The 1mm longer bmax4-III arms are not the bmax4-II arm. This is a longer version of the bmax4-III arm and I am not sure why Yokomo would increase the rear track width that wide, there has to be a reason if they started producing it for the wheeler.

I would not recommend using the bmax2 mr arms on the yz as the inner dimension will require filing to fit on the yz.

I have raced many nationals and have yet to experience a tech box to ever be used in offroad racing. In sedan racing, yes a lot and it was mainly for body issues.
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Old 03-27-2015, 12:17 PM   #853
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I just want to point out that the primary use of these different arms is not to adjust track width. Shorter(YZ-2) or longer(BMax-2) arms keep the same track width by alternating different rear wheel hexs.

The YZ-2 arms give more traction and less roll making the rear end more stable. Longer arms will make the rear rotate faster and more fluidly.
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Old 03-27-2015, 01:48 PM   #854
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Feels like the sedan days... long arm vs short arm...
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Old 03-27-2015, 02:58 PM   #855
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I bought the 30 deg front suspension mount and on mibosport it says it's for high traction, why would you want more kick up in high traction ? Thanks
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