R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 08-10-2017, 01:11 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Yokomo YZ-2
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: Bob Barry
Welcome to the YZ2 Wiki!

If you edit the page, please add your name and date prior to your addition. While an admin can view the history, this makes it easier for everyone to just check updates. We'll put the newest additions at the top

Setup Sheets can be found here

Print Wikipost

Like Tree40Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 03-04-2015, 03:18 PM   #691
Tech Master
 
FLHX1550's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Wyoming, MN
Posts: 1,712
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by scythe23 View Post
Just curious since I have like 4 or 5 b5 ball diffs
Someone mentioned a 22 diff will work if you put enough shims in it.
__________________
JConcepts - TKO - RW Mods - B-Fast - MODX Motors & Batteries - Skare OCD Designs
FLHX1550 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2015, 03:20 PM   #692
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 393
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by FLHX1550 View Post
There is nothing to be gained by pucks. Besides, with the materials yokomo uses the out drives and axles last considerably longer than the puck system. Local TLR driver has them in his 22 and is wearing the out drives faster than the pucks, the material is way too soft.

My B-max2 out drives and axles had a year's worth of racing on them, and the only thing you could tell was worn is the pin in the out drive end of the axle had a small flat, and the out drives looked new other than the black was worn off.

With the correct materials, they last a long time. Besides, you can buy TWO entire sets of axles for the cost of one puck system.

If they made aluminum, you could argue a slight weight savings, but there isn't enough there to go after IMO ( and yes I understand it is rotating weight ).

Besides the MIP system uses the plastic rings to hold the cross pins in the CVA, a design that is notorious for failing.

IMO the yokomo drive shafts, axles, and CVAs are the longest lasting, best quality in the business.
Won't argue with you about the quality of Yokomo since I haven't bought one yet but I will say in my b5m the weight savings in the rotating mass is a huge improvement on how snappy my car drives, to say that the weight savings isn't worth it is imo not very accurate at all from a 17.5 racer point of view. Now for mod i can't see the value at all in the shiny pucks
. Also with proper maintenance the orange pucks are not an issue
scythe23 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2015, 03:22 PM   #693
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 393
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by FLHX1550 View Post
Someone mentioned a 22 diff will work if you put enough shims in it.
ah thanks, prob just get the yokomo one then, like I said I have a few brand new AE ones and was curious if I could just use those
scythe23 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2015, 03:22 PM   #694
Tech Master
 
FLHX1550's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Wyoming, MN
Posts: 1,712
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Socket View Post
Gear diffs in 1/10th applications require constant fluid changes and care. My last ball diff lasted 4 months without ever being touched, and was buttery smooth for the entire time. A friend that was running a gear diff kept having to change fluid to keep the diff action consistent from day to day.
After initial breakin, I ran my B-Max2 diff for a year without touching it. No leaking, so I knew the fluid was in it still. The yokomo diff is substantially better quality than the other builders ( except for XRay, who has the same setup as yokomo)
__________________
JConcepts - TKO - RW Mods - B-Fast - MODX Motors & Batteries - Skare OCD Designs
FLHX1550 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2015, 04:16 PM   #695
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 126
Default

I wouldn't call a gear diff lower maintenance for 1/10th 2wd than a ball diff.

Just buy a set of grounded diff plates, Bfast or TKO come to mind, some good carbide diffs balls and ceramic thrust balls (personal choice).
Use good grease, with the proper amount.
A good break up and a careful first run and you will have a great smooth diff for months. I would have to at least refill a gear diff way before that.

I still prefer a ball diff for 2wd, maybe a bit less flashy on the track but more stable. Lots of people talk about tires and setups but a good well setup diff is for me the first thing to watch for on a 2wd.
For training I keep the gear diff as wear is almost null.

Carbide balls favor a loose setting, low to medium grip. If tightens too much it will become gritty pretty fast.
If I have to run on high to very high grip I would use ceramic diff balls. Such diff need to be tighten quite a bit to stop slipping but will be smooth for a while at that setting, you will go through diff plate as they will wear more quickly.
I like a gear diff on high grip.

4wd is another story, maintaining 2 balls diffs In good shape is a hard task and I find those less sensible than 2wd to gear diffs diffing out.

I got issues with ball diffs until I tried grounded perfectly flat diff rings and good balls. Night and day.
mojo tom is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2015, 06:32 AM   #696
Tech Master
 
WillS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 1,126
Trader Rating: 30 (100%+)
Send a message via MSN to WillS Send a message via Yahoo to WillS
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by scythe23 View Post
Won't argue with you about the quality of Yokomo since I haven't bought one yet but I will say in my b5m the weight savings in the rotating mass is a huge improvement on how snappy my car drives, to say that the weight savings isn't worth it is imo not very accurate at all from a 17.5 racer point of view. Now for mod i can't see the value at all in the shiny pucks
. Also with proper maintenance the orange pucks are not an issue
Yes the weight savings is not the benefit of the pucks system. With the pucks you always maintain a zero lash setting in the dogbones creating a quick snap feel. This is a big power loss for stock class racers who race on high bite without a pucks system. Then we can go into the rotation weight loss. The entire diff of a pucks system weighs 8-10g. This is over %50 weight reduction compared to stock.

In comparison to when I raced road bikes, when I went to BST wheels on my R6 I would gain more acceleration and top end, this was only paired with the ease of the bike's handling when flipping it back and forth through corners. I worked way less with the BST and could ride harder longer than I could with the stock aluminum wheels. This is why stock drivers seek out parts like this.
__________________
Will Smith
=========================================================
Sponsors:
Cheater Racing, Team Powers, Amain.com/Protek, Dialed RC Hobbies, Sweep Racing
WillS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-07-2015, 09:34 AM   #697
Tech Champion
 
teeforb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: San Diego & Compton CA
Posts: 7,202
Trader Rating: 94 (100%+)
Send a message via Yahoo to teeforb
Default

how is this compared to the bmax?

also, any luck on the diff balls? if diff balls were in stock, i would pull the trigger and get it...
__________________
$$ Team High Budget $$
17.5 stock buggy fb page
https://www.facebook.com/groups/17.5stockbuggy/
teeforb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-07-2015, 10:46 AM   #698
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: In a house
Posts: 222
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by mojo tom View Post
I wouldn't call a gear diff lower maintenance for 1/10th 2wd than a ball diff.

Just buy a set of grounded diff plates, Bfast or TKO come to mind, some good carbide diffs balls and ceramic thrust balls (personal choice).
Use good grease, with the proper amount.
A good break up and a careful first run and you will have a great smooth diff for months. I would have to at least refill a gear diff way before that.

I still prefer a ball diff for 2wd, maybe a bit less flashy on the track but more stable. Lots of people talk about tires and setups but a good well setup diff is for me the first thing to watch for on a 2wd.
For training I keep the gear diff as wear is almost null.

Carbide balls favor a loose setting, low to medium grip. If tightens too much it will become gritty pretty fast.
If I have to run on high to very high grip I would use ceramic diff balls. Such diff need to be tighten quite a bit to stop slipping but will be smooth for a while at that setting, you will go through diff plate as they will wear more quickly.
I like a gear diff on high grip.

4wd is another story, maintaining 2 balls diffs In good shape is a hard task and I find those less sensible than 2wd to gear diffs diffing out.

I got issues with ball diffs until I tried grounded perfectly flat diff rings and good balls. Night and day.
Got to agree with you there i had issues with the 22 diff when it came out told run ceramic balls but was just crap.Never had problems before with a diff running carbide balls....
Quietman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-07-2015, 04:02 PM   #699
Tech Elite
 
vr6cj's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Modesto, CA
Posts: 4,052
Trader Rating: 124 (100%+)
Default

here's my setup for those med traction outdoor clay tracks. Based off CLints setup and added mine and local fast guy Dereks changes. Its pretty dang good. Take a look if your outside.

Also adjust the oils to temp outside by 2.5 up or down.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf YZ-2 MODESTO SETUP (1).pdf (406.6 KB, 131 views)
vr6cj is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2015, 06:48 AM   #700
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Dublin, Ohio
Posts: 1,095
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

I am about done building the car and I have to say this is probably the nicest 1:10 scale car I have ever built.

There is one issue with the car that I don't like. The front bumper doesn't sit flat on the chassis. And the part that is supposed to hold the front inner hinge pins in is bowing away from them and doesn't sit flush against the retainer. I can see this breaking or flexing enough to loose that part.
__________________
Website: http://michaelsasher.com
masher81 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2015, 09:03 AM   #701
Moderator
 
MarkA's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Corvallis, OR
Posts: 8,804
Trader Rating: 21 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by masher81 View Post
I am about done building the car and I have to say this is probably the nicest 1:10 scale car I have ever built.

There is one issue with the car that I don't like. The front bumper doesn't sit flat on the chassis. And the part that is supposed to hold the front inner hinge pins in is bowing away from them and doesn't sit flush against the retainer. I can see this breaking or flexing enough to loose that part.
Make sure you didn't overtighten the screws going through the front bumper. They need to be snug but too tight and I saw them start to kinda warp the bumper myself.
MarkA is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2015, 09:06 AM   #702
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Dublin, Ohio
Posts: 1,095
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkA View Post
Make sure you didn't overtighten the screws going through the front bumper.
Its like this even with no screws. I am going to CA glue a thin strip of plastic to the front bumper in between the hinge pin brace and the bumper to take up the slop.
__________________
Website: http://michaelsasher.com
masher81 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2015, 09:10 AM   #703
Tech Champion
 
STLNLST's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 8,881
Trader Rating: 19 (100%+)
Default

This car is the real deal. Came up short of winning the 40+ 17.5 class but that was my fault not the car. Buggy was stuck and so easy to drive. Stayed with my setup posted on Petit with two changes. Went with Kyosho spring gold front and white rear and laid the rear shocks all the way down. I was up against all the B5's and puck systems. I wasn't down on power by any means. Can't wait to run this car again.
__________________
REMEMBER THE GOOD OLE DAYS..........THEY'RE NEVER COMING BACK SO WE'RE STUCK WITH THE MESS IN FRONT OF US!!!!
STLNLST is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2015, 09:12 AM   #704
Tech Champion
 
teeforb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: San Diego & Compton CA
Posts: 7,202
Trader Rating: 94 (100%+)
Send a message via Yahoo to teeforb
Default

I want to run this car for 13.5... but the part support SUCKS! both the TI turnbuckles and ball diffs are out of order Amain has a $25 coupon for purchases > $250. I may just go all new.. BUT, the parts issue....
__________________
$$ Team High Budget $$
17.5 stock buggy fb page
https://www.facebook.com/groups/17.5stockbuggy/
teeforb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2015, 09:18 AM   #705
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Dublin, Ohio
Posts: 1,095
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Its not just Yokomo, It seems like all the manufactures are having issues right now.
__________________
Website: http://michaelsasher.com
masher81 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 2 (1 members and 1 guests)
Pinebox
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 05:11 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net