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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Yokomo YZ-2
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Old 03-04-2015, 09:03 AM   #676
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I would like to have a set of front arms in my box just in case. This past weekend a new B5m driver drilled me and broke my rear arm. Ended my day early and had to borrow a rear motor Losi 22 with a burnt diff.
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Old 03-04-2015, 09:03 AM   #677
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Masher, you probably have a sense of this already, but you may be running your ball diffs too loose or not breaking them in slowly enough. Even if you're an old had at this, it's helpful to periodically have a friend check your diff to see if your diff feels right to him.
I am not going to say that I know it all when it comes to building ball diffs, but I have built MANY. I have had help from some of the best and have had people feel them for me and I have compared them to other cars over the years. Most people tell me that they feel great. To me they feel like crap lol, maybe I am just picky. I love how easy it is to adjust a ball diff, my problem is that it is hard to duplicate the results. You have to go by "feel" and not hard numbers, and while this may be the absolute best method for our cars, I like numbers. If I put 1000wt oil in I know what the result is going to be vs 1/16th of a turn.
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Old 03-04-2015, 10:28 AM   #678
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I am not going to say that I know it all when it comes to building ball diffs, but I have built MANY. I have had help from some of the best and have had people feel them for me and I have compared them to other cars over the years. Most people tell me that they feel great. To me they feel like crap lol, maybe I am just picky. I love how easy it is to adjust a ball diff, my problem is that it is hard to duplicate the results. You have to go by "feel" and not hard numbers, and while this may be the absolute best method for our cars, I like numbers. If I put 1000wt oil in I know what the result is going to be vs 1/16th of a turn.
The problem with gear diffs in 1/10th scale is oil degradation and heat.
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Old 03-04-2015, 10:51 AM   #679
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The problem with gear diffs in 1/10th scale is oil degradation and heat.
I have yet to experience these problems. If that was the case then onroad cars would be having more issues than us offroaders.
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Old 03-04-2015, 11:05 AM   #680
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Just looking at Amain.com, looks like a good size shipment made its way in.
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Old 03-04-2015, 11:21 AM   #681
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I have yet to experience these problems. If that was the case then onroad cars would be having more issues than us offroaders.
Ditto, been running exclusively gears diffs in 1/10th buggies for about two years now. Never experienced any change in the way the diff works throughout a run or day racing only mod, carpet and clay.
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Old 03-04-2015, 11:25 AM   #682
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Just looking at Amain.com, looks like a good size shipment made its way in.
The last of my BO is in :-) Guess I'll just pick it up on friday.
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Old 03-04-2015, 11:54 AM   #683
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The problem with gear diffs in 1/10th scale is oil degradation and heat.
I just don't see how a 1:10 scale car can cause enough heat in a gear diff to cause an issue. The center diff on a nitro car gets very hot, and while it does change a little over a 45 minute main, its under way more stress then a 1:10 2wd could ever put one under.
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Old 03-04-2015, 02:48 PM   #684
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Thinking of getting one and have been following the thread, what optional/upgrade parts do you wish they had for this car
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Old 03-04-2015, 03:48 PM   #685
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Just looking at Amain.com, looks like a good size shipment made its way in.
Saw that this afternoon. I am now stocked with sufficient spares I may be able to drive a little harder and not be afraid of day ending breakage
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Old 03-04-2015, 04:04 PM   #686
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Are you all running ball diff or gear diff. Will the AE ball diff work?
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Old 03-04-2015, 04:10 PM   #687
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If the Bmax bones work, Why doesn't someone try the pucks for the Bmax then?
There is nothing to be gained by pucks. Besides, with the materials yokomo uses the out drives and axles last considerably longer than the puck system. Local TLR driver has them in his 22 and is wearing the out drives faster than the pucks, the material is way too soft.

My B-max2 out drives and axles had a year's worth of racing on them, and the only thing you could tell was worn is the pin in the out drive end of the axle had a small flat, and the out drives looked new other than the black was worn off.

With the correct materials, they last a long time. Besides, you can buy TWO entire sets of axles for the cost of one puck system.

If they made aluminum, you could argue a slight weight savings, but there isn't enough there to go after IMO ( and yes I understand it is rotating weight ).

Besides the MIP system uses the plastic rings to hold the cross pins in the CVA, a design that is notorious for failing.

IMO the yokomo drive shafts, axles, and CVAs are the longest lasting, best quality in the business.
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Old 03-04-2015, 04:11 PM   #688
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Are you all running ball diff or gear diff. Will the AE ball diff work?
Spend $10 more and get the one made for the car
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Old 03-04-2015, 04:16 PM   #689
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Spend $10 more and get the one made for the car
Just curious since I have like 4 or 5 b5 ball diffs
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Old 03-04-2015, 04:17 PM   #690
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I have yet to experience these problems. If that was the case then onroad cars would be having more issues than us offroaders.
It's all about grip level and how tight the corners are. Our local track here is where we run on-road and off-road, and the on-road guys have to run very thin grease in a sedan. Some run 30wt shock oil.

But in a 2wd off road car, we have to run fairly heavy fluid due to heat with all the grip and the tight turns. It really works the diffs. I run 10k, and try to get a good 6 or 7 laps of warm up in so it is free for the whole heat or main. 3k and 5k got too thin by the end of the runs, and would unload coming on power out of the corner.

The 10k with some warmup is much more consistent thru the runs, particularly the 10 minute mains we run.
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