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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Yokomo YZ-2
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Old 02-23-2015, 08:18 PM   #601
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
this is why I dont want a gear diff, lol.

Notice how thats an associated gear diff and not a yokomo...

Yokomo gear diffs work really well. Out of all the gear diffs (durango, team c, sworks, tlr, ae, yokomo) I have messed with these are the best quality I have dealt with. Most gear diffs suffer problems from the builder. A common problem is over tightening the diffs causing the cover to leak.

Lutzinator.com has a great video on how to service a gear diff that should be watched by all wanting to use a gear diff. I have been using this method for over a year now and find that it provides the best longevity of diffs between builds.
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Old 02-23-2015, 08:24 PM   #602
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Xray saya to weigh the oil into the diff. At a very specific weight. From what I hear is to prevent leakage.all gear diffs will eventually leak. All my 8scale diffs do. My touring car is the only one not leaking.
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Old 02-23-2015, 08:35 PM   #603
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Xray saya to weigh the oil into the diff. At a very specific weight. From what I hear is to prevent leakage.all gear diffs will eventually leak. All my 8scale diffs do. My touring car is the only one not leaking.
Yes every manufacturer has a different method and a different reason they use that method.
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Old 02-23-2015, 09:09 PM   #604
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That geardiff looks a hot mess....lol
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Old 02-24-2015, 12:37 PM   #605
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Default Parts recommended?

Hey all just curious , for all the guys running the yz2 .
are there any hop up parts needed?
I have the ball diff and aluminum shock caps?

Or parts that commonly break? I have the usual parts. Arms, hubs, bulkheads.
Would just like to know

Thanks
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Old 02-24-2015, 12:40 PM   #606
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Originally Posted by zippygraphix View Post
Hey all just curious , for all the guys running the yz2 .
are there any hop up parts needed?
I have the ball diff and aluminum shock caps?

Or parts that commonly break? I have the usual parts. Arms, hubs, bulkheads.
Would just like to know
I wouldn't have recommended the aluminum shock caps. They place weight up high and will create a bind on the aluminum standoffs. SO make sure you use plastic standoffs on the top.

As for commonly broken parts... I haven't experienced this issue yet.
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Old 02-24-2015, 12:46 PM   #607
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Originally Posted by WillS View Post
Notice how thats an associated gear diff and not a yokomo...

Yokomo gear diffs work really well. Out of all the gear diffs (durango, team c, sworks, tlr, ae, yokomo) I have messed with these are the best quality I have dealt with. Most gear diffs suffer problems from the builder. A common problem is over tightening the diffs causing the cover to leak.

Lutzinator.com has a great video on how to service a gear diff that should be watched by all wanting to use a gear diff. I have been using this method for over a year now and find that it provides the best longevity of diffs between builds.
Yes, that is an AE. The potential for the mess shy's me away. But my D413 diffs never leaked a drop. My SCTE diffs were a hot mess a shit. I posted that picture for the people who think gear diffs are less work, lol. It seems on rctech/FB 90% of the people wanting gear diffs think they are easier and less work. IMO you need to replace gear diff fluid often. Mine never feel the same after 2-3 weekends. I spend way more time on my gear diff then ball diffs.
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Old 02-24-2015, 12:55 PM   #608
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Many guys just add more fluid rather than replace it. If needed. The only benefits of the hot mess is extra lubrication on the idler gear and top shaft. Plus it is as fast as a ball diff by then.
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Old 02-24-2015, 01:27 PM   #609
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Many guys just add more fluid rather than replace it. If needed. The only benefits of the hot mess is extra lubrication on the idler gear and top shaft. Plus it is as fast as a ball diff by then.
I dont know about adding. maybe I am anal, but if it is grey, it has metal in it, and should be replaced, and the parts and the case cleaned.
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Old 02-25-2015, 06:30 AM   #610
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Originally Posted by WillS View Post
I wouldn't have recommended the aluminum shock caps. They place weight up high and will create a bind on the aluminum standoffs. SO make sure you use plastic standoffs on the top.

As for commonly broken parts... I haven't experienced this issue yet.
Thank you..
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Old 02-25-2015, 07:52 AM   #611
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
I dont know about adding. maybe I am anal, but if it is grey, it has metal in it, and should be replaced, and the parts and the case cleaned.
It probably won't have metal in it if it was made by Yokomo and not Associated...

I've ran both companies' gear diffs and the difference in the machining on the internal gears is light years apart.
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Old 02-25-2015, 03:00 PM   #612
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WillS View Post
Notice how thats an associated gear diff and not a yokomo...

Yokomo gear diffs work really well. Out of all the gear diffs (durango, team c, sworks, tlr, ae, yokomo) I have messed with these are the best quality I have dealt with. Most gear diffs suffer problems from the builder. A common problem is over tightening the diffs causing the cover to leak.



I've used both the AE and Yoke Gear diff and I haven't noticed any leaking.


Wishful thinking?


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Old 02-25-2015, 10:25 PM   #613
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I just picked up the yz-2 and was wondering on where to mount the rear shocks. Should i mount them in front or behind shock tower and what are the benefits to running them in that position.
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Old 02-26-2015, 03:31 AM   #614
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Depends on the track. Just run it out of the box and go from there.
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Old 02-26-2015, 04:28 AM   #615
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As far as the gear vs ball diff issue is concerned, you have to remember that this car's setup out of the box is aimed at smooth, high grip surfaces. Most particularly as high of grip as astro and carpet, which is the arena in which a gear diff will excel. And we are talking a surface that is many times higher grip than any sugared dirt or clay.

Schumacher mini-pin tires with yellow compound, open cell inserts, 4.5 turn motors and landing on the gas are part of the turf off-road program, and it tears diffs apart. I run for B-Fast, and outdoors I can get an entire season on a B-Fast diff, where as on the carpet I am lucky to get 2-3 race nights. It's just that hard on them.

Hence the requirement for the gear diff.

The main handling differences with a gear diff is that they will want to keep rotating. With all the grip on carpet, its not noticeable because the grip will keep the diff from being locked or in a "posi" condition coming out of the corner. However on dirt (with any level of grip) you will have to let the car square up and level out coming off of a corner before you can get on the gas hard so that it doesn't spin. The less grip their is / heavier the fluid the more ginger you have to be with the throttle.

Indoors, I run 10k fluid. I will try the gear diff outdoors before I buy a ball diff, and they can be run succesffully but you have to go VERY thin on oil. 2k, 1k, or even 80wt shock oil (I have seen some just run thin grease) and they will get close to a ball diff in feel and performance, but there will always be that slight amount of mechanical bind coming out of the corner.

A ball diff (when properly maintained) will never have any mechanical bind, so this is why they work so well. They are basically a high-end thrust bearing made with premium parts, so there is no bind in its rotation. They keep everything free as to keep each wheel speed independent from each other irregardless of what situation they are in. They also work better in low grip, rough conditions.

That being said, the biggest mistake people make with gear diffs is over filling. They fill them right to the top to the point a little comes out when they put them together. This is OK, however when running it for the first few times, the diff will get warm, the fluid will expand, and it will find its way out. After a weekend of two of racing, you can usually clean the outside of the diff and it is good to go and won't leak for a long time.

I tend to build them once, run them a couple of weeks, take them apart and totally clean them because the gears and parts have to break in, but after putting them together after that and as long as I don't want to run a different fluid, I will not take them apart. My diff in my B-Max2 MRV2 was run over a year after it's initial break in, and the fluid was just barely cloudy when I serviced it as I got the car prepped to sell after my YZ showed up.

The Yokomo diffs are pretty good quality, and the gears seem to be tougher than most, but I assure you there are not more than one or two companies in the world that make the parts for the diffs.

Both diffs have the correct applications, and both can actually can be made to work ok - decent in just about all applications, but at the absolute ends of the spectrum you will find one is required to get the job done.
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