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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Yokomo YZ-2
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Old 12-23-2016, 07:57 AM   #2536
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My standard YZ-2 has traction rolled on me outdoors on dirt on fast sweepers so I feel your pain.
Try softer springs and go up 5-10wt in your oils and lower the car 2mm to see if you can remedy the traction roll.
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Old 12-23-2016, 08:04 AM   #2537
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Pick up the Exotek slipper eliminator and one of their lightened spurs. Easiest way to drop rotating mass.

B5M cut gears fit in the original yz-2. Lightened drive shafts are a tougher request.

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Originally Posted by zzztech View Post
thx, I also mean lightened drive shafts, although I see in spec the top shaft is already aluminum which is good. Also after market slipper eliminators? Anything that helps reduce rotating mass
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Old 12-23-2016, 08:07 AM   #2538
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Couple of Questions on the Ymax Conversion. I have all the parts to pull it off, along with the Factory RC kit, but have a few questions below:

1.) Is it best to use the BMax 2 rear arms? - I have sets of YZ2's, BM2, and BM4's that I can use on it.

2.) If I use the BMax2 or BMax4 arms, do you know the proper hub and bone/axle length that should be used for such kit? I assume the BM2 bones and 5.0 hubs are best, but let me know.

3.) Anyone know where to get one of the BMax 2 idlers - I have one, just need a second one.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 12-23-2016, 08:40 AM   #2539
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobsRacin View Post
DRove the car for the first time on Wednesday and it was crazy good. Did everything I wanted but it kept wanting to flip in one spot of our track. It's a jump and the end of the lander is a 90 degree corner and I can't land and try to accelerate hard or else it will flip over. I believe the car is too soft and is bouncing too much. The track is high grip Astro

So what pistons fit this? My LHS had AE pistons in stock, will they fit?
No idea if AE ones fit the Yoko machined ones are really nice - 1.6 front, 1.7 rear; I'd just order those and as you've figured out, if you are running the kit setup, you are way too soft, go up on oil at the same time but don't go softer on springs on Astro.
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Old 12-23-2016, 01:13 PM   #2540
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkA View Post
No idea if AE ones fit the Yoko machined ones are really nice - 1.6 front, 1.7 rear; I'd just order those and as you've figured out, if you are running the kit setup, you are way too soft, go up on oil at the same time but don't go softer on springs on Astro.
I'll order the pistons, have a race tomorrow morning though... would going up on oils as is remedy it at all? Im at AE 35wt up front, and AE 30wt in the rear with the stock pistons
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Old 12-24-2016, 11:41 PM   #2541
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Quote:
Originally Posted by draboyd19 View Post
Couple of Questions on the Ymax Conversion. I have all the parts to pull it off, along with the Factory RC kit, but have a few questions below:

1.) Is it best to use the BMax 2 rear arms? - I have sets of YZ2's, BM2, and BM4's that I can use on it.

2.) If I use the BMax2 or BMax4 arms, do you know the proper hub and bone/axle length that should be used for such kit? I assume the BM2 bones and 5.0 hubs are best, but let me know.

3.) Anyone know where to get one of the BMax 2 idlers - I have one, just need a second one.

Thanks in advance.
I believe I was able to find the answers to points 1 and 2 above from this thread after some deep reading.

However, if anyone has a spare B-max idler gear and/or a gear cover laying around they would be willing to part with please let me know. I have all the other parts but struggling to find an outlet for those two parts online....seems everyone has discontinued these items. Happy to work out ways to pay for such parts.

Thanks again.
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Old 01-02-2017, 08:06 PM   #2542
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At the risk of sounding stupid, can someone clarify the spacers used in the Set Up sheet for me with regards to the steering rack? There are two spots near the rack that have spacers listed, I believe the 'top' one is for Ackerman, similar to my B5M, but what is the lower spacer meant to adjust?
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Old 01-02-2017, 10:50 PM   #2543
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobsRacin View Post
DRove the car for the first time on Wednesday and it was crazy good. Did everything I wanted but it kept wanting to flip in one spot of our track. It's a jump and the end of the lander is a 90 degree corner and I can't land and try to accelerate hard or else it will flip over. I believe the car is too soft and is bouncing too much. The track is high grip Astro

So what pistons fit this? My LHS had AE pistons in stock, will they fit?
Stiffer springs, oil and lower.ride height. I assume you are running a CA and not the DT as well?
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Old 01-03-2017, 07:06 AM   #2544
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Grabbed a CA this weekend. Built about half of it. First Yok. So far I'm impressed with the quality.
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Old 01-03-2017, 07:07 AM   #2545
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeavyD99 View Post
At the risk of sounding stupid, can someone clarify the spacers used in the Set Up sheet for me with regards to the steering rack? There are two spots near the rack that have spacers listed, I believe the 'top' one is for Ackerman, similar to my B5M, but what is the lower spacer meant to adjust?
Hope this information below will help.

First, I will agree these set-up sheets are a little more complicated to understand at first glace, but once you get them down, it's not to bad,

Front Suspension:

Steering Rack Section Drawing. The two boxes are designed to define the amount of spacers below the steering arms (normally 2mm), and the amount of spacers under the ball studs on the rack itself (normally 3mm).

On the front arm and front hub carrier illustration, the up and down arrow with the red dot highlighted, shows if the hub is shimmed down or up - normally, the thicker bushing is on the bottom (thinner one on top), so the red dot is on the up arrow, showing the hub is shimmed up.

On the side illustration of the hub, it shows the castor setting, shims under the bump steer ball stud, and if the red dot is highlighted near the back of the carrier, that is meant to show placement of the spacer location (normally, shimmed in the back).

Rear Suspension:

The one area that is a little weird is the hanger illustration. If the red dot is below or above the rear hanger, that shows the location of the 1mm shim. Normally always below it. Same thing applies to the front hanger, but it is normally always below it.

Only other one is the S-M-L wheelbase - if it is S, they the shims are in the back and no shims in the front of the rear carrier. L, would mean opposite, and M means an equal shim in the front and back.

I think that is the complex parts. Hope that helps.

Last edited by draboyd19; 01-03-2017 at 02:24 PM.
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Old 01-03-2017, 08:58 AM   #2546
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Thanks for the detailed explanation draboy.

Off hand, does anyone know if a B5 ball diff fits into this buggy? I know the idler is the same, just hoping to avoid buying a ball diff if I can use one I already own.
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Old 01-03-2017, 02:26 PM   #2547
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Barry View Post
Grabbed a CA this weekend. Built about half of it. First Yok. So far I'm impressed with the quality.
Yep, same here. Between the carbon fiber parts and the aluminum parts, it about as good as it gets......plastic parts are very nice as well.

Enjoy the rest of the build.
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Old 01-03-2017, 03:37 PM   #2548
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robbie_gtc View Post
Stiffer springs, oil and lower.ride height. I assume you are running a CA and not the DT as well?
Roger that, yes the CA
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Old 01-03-2017, 07:43 PM   #2549
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Any chance this wheeler is getting an update soon?

I saw a lot of them on sales overs the holiday season
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Old 01-07-2017, 06:53 AM   #2550
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zzztech View Post
Any chance this wheeler is getting an update soon?

I saw a lot of them on sales overs the holiday season
I guess anything is possible, but with the recent releases of the CA and DT versions, not sure what more they will improve on with release in 2017. Between the CA and DT versions, and the original YZ-2, they have most of the laydown and upright motor positions covered for the time being, all which include the same front end which is considered one of the best in the market today on a 1/10th buggy.

My guess is you don't see much of anything new until later 2017, or something in 2018.
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