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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Yokomo YZ-2
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Old 12-18-2016, 03:28 AM   #2521
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Schumacher has great titanium turnbuckles priced nice which work great on the YZ4
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Old 12-18-2016, 06:00 AM   #2522
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Will the CA edition take a square pack, or is it shorty only?
That is one of the unique things about the yz is that it will fit shorty square or saddle.
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Old 12-18-2016, 08:40 AM   #2523
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That is one of the unique things about the yz is that it will fit shorty square or saddle.
Thanks
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Old 12-18-2016, 09:35 AM   #2524
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Schumacher has great titanium turnbuckles priced nice which work great on the YZ4
Norse, I am assuming to just piece them together with the Schumacher?

https://www.amainhobbies.com/schumac...hu4299/p260355
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Old 12-18-2016, 06:51 PM   #2525
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Welp just finished building my CA, not too impressed with the build....

A lot of value in the box though that is for sure

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Old 12-18-2016, 07:00 PM   #2526
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Welp just finished building my CA, not too impressed with the build....

A lot of value in the box though that is for sure
What did you not like about it?
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Old 12-18-2016, 07:07 PM   #2527
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52mm are just fine my friend.
Thank you
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Old 12-19-2016, 05:09 AM   #2528
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What did you not like about it?
I Felt like the plastics were really soft and I never got the feeling that I bottomed out a screw like on other kits, The heads on the screws also seemed pretty soft, and there is a small amount of play in the rear arms. I really like the design of all the components though. Only other downside is I cannot find a place to mount my 30 mm motor fan
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Old 12-19-2016, 05:30 AM   #2529
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Is this kit good for stock racing? I'm looking at the DT version. Any needs for upgrades or lightened parts such as aluminium drive shafts etc?
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Old 12-19-2016, 11:00 AM   #2530
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The car in general is already too light in most cases. This varies upon what electroncis you choose, etc.

Mine was 17g under with a Tekin RS Gen2, full sized KO servo and receiver, Protek 100c battery.
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Old 12-19-2016, 02:26 PM   #2531
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Originally Posted by RobsRacin View Post
I Felt like the plastics were really soft and I never got the feeling that I bottomed out a screw like on other kits, The heads on the screws also seemed pretty soft, and there is a small amount of play in the rear arms. I really like the design of all the components though. Only other downside is I cannot find a place to mount my 30 mm motor fan
This is news to me. I have 2 kits and they are among the best I've ever built.
Associated, (Pre & Post Thunder Tiger), Team Losi, TLR, Tamiya, HB, Hobby-Pro, Serpent, Bo-Link (yes I've been at this a while LOL), Kyosho, Durango and I put the Yokes right up there with the best of them. Of all the kits I've ever had the pleasure of building and running though, I'd have to say Durango is tops in every category. Precision unrivaled in my experience and the plastics ultra-rigid and maintain their form or snap and I find their robustness quite adequate.

The Yokomo is probably one of the more durable kits I've ever run which adds to it's appeal for me, but part of that is due to the plastics being rigid enough to keep them from snapping from the slightest taps. The only other car I've had this durable was my 410 even with the more rigid plastics. I plan on running Yoke for some time to come so long as parts support remains or grows and the price doesn't jump higher. There isn't a single"luxury" kit out there regardless of how hard some try to peddle their product and as such they shouldn't include a luxury tax. These are toy cars that go way faster than their parts can withstand in the event of an impact or odd landing and as such, certain parts are, or should be consumables with price points representative of that.
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Old 12-19-2016, 03:12 PM   #2532
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This is news to me. I have 2 kits and they are among the best I've ever built.
Associated, (Pre & Post Thunder Tiger), Team Losi, TLR, Tamiya, HB, Hobby-Pro, Serpent, Bo-Link (yes I've been at this a while LOL), Kyosho, Durango and I put the Yokes right up there with the best of them. Of all the kits I've ever had the pleasure of building and running though, I'd have to say Durango is tops in every category. Precision unrivaled in my experience and the plastics ultra-rigid and maintain their form or snap and I find their robustness quite adequate.

The Yokomo is probably one of the more durable kits I've ever run which adds to it's appeal for me, but part of that is due to the plastics being rigid enough to keep them from snapping from the slightest taps. The only other car I've had this durable was my 410 even with the more rigid plastics. I plan on running Yoke for some time to come so long as parts support remains or grows and the price doesn't jump higher. There isn't a single"luxury" kit out there regardless of how hard some try to peddle their product and as such they shouldn't include a luxury tax. These are toy cars that go way faster than their parts can withstand in the event of an impact or odd landing and as such, certain parts are, or should be consumables with price points representative of that.
Im not saying it was a bad build, but I nearly stripped out a few heads (Im using quality tools here too, MIP Thorp sets, both a new and 3 year old set), and none of the screws ever felt like they bottomed out and were where they certainly needed to be(Besides the trans case). The Xray cars I recently built all had definite feelings like the the screws had a definite stopping point, this yok however had me feeling like I could keep turning the screw, almost like a mystery if I am stripping out the plastics or not. The B6 and TLR cars felt the same way so I don't necessarily hold it against the yok. Just felt the Xray and Kyosho cars had a crisper feeling in the screw and plastic department. Besides the three things I mentioned, the build was great and the fit and finish is awesome(except for my rear arms). I've never seen a kit with so much Carbon Fiber and Aluminium included in the box.
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Old 12-19-2016, 03:41 PM   #2533
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I dunno, but could the threads on the screws you received maybe be a bit shallower than normal?

If you have screws from other manufacturers maybe you can try it to see if it bites properly? Personally I think manufactures should make the screw holes slightly tapered to allow the initial threading of screws without having to muscle them in, but taper inward considerably so they almost squeak as they turn in.

One thing I started doing a few years back was use an electric driver to start threading screws because I find the speed creates more heat as they turn in and the threads cut into plastics feel a bit more solid. I turn them almost all the way down and tighten all by hand so I can physically feel them bottom out. I haven't built a TLR kit since the original 22 but I found my screws definitely turned in firmly and they most definitely bottomed out. So much so they literally SNAP when I'd have to remove them.

As for the screws feeling "soft" as though they might strip out, again, I haven't encountered this issue on my 2 its, but I have the original YZ-2 so IDK if the new kits are shipping with lesser grade screws. MIP Tools are as good as it gets and I have Hobby-Pro allen drivers and with the exception of the 1.5 tip which rounded out on me almost immediately (every brand 1.5 driver with the exception of MIP has done the same) have a precision fit in screw heads and I have not had any screw strip on my YZ's.

The only things that have failed on mine are the ballcups which pop off if you sneeze at them after they pop off, and the bell crank bearings on my backup car seem to have imploded in no time. My main YZ is still perfect there so maybe the bearings on the other one was a fluke.
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Old 12-19-2016, 08:56 PM   #2534
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy_Pike View Post
The car in general is already too light in most cases. This varies upon what electroncis you choose, etc.

Mine was 17g under with a Tekin RS Gen2, full sized KO servo and receiver, Protek 100c battery.
thx, I also mean lightened drive shafts, although I see in spec the top shaft is already aluminum which is good. Also after market slipper eliminators? Anything that helps reduce rotating mass
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Old 12-23-2016, 07:17 AM   #2535
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DRove the car for the first time on Wednesday and it was crazy good. Did everything I wanted but it kept wanting to flip in one spot of our track. It's a jump and the end of the lander is a 90 degree corner and I can't land and try to accelerate hard or else it will flip over. I believe the car is too soft and is bouncing too much. The track is high grip Astro

So what pistons fit this? My LHS had AE pistons in stock, will they fit?
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