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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Yokomo YZ-2
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Old 01-04-2016, 11:50 AM   #1786
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Originally Posted by LiL CeeZ View Post
Anybody made MIP pucks work for our car?
MIP makes shiny pucks for the Yokomo cars and they drop right in.
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Old 01-04-2016, 01:43 PM   #1787
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MIP makes shiny pucks for the Yokomo cars and they drop right in.
Thanks I appreciate the response but I wanted the lightweight ones to shave the rotational mass down for stock.
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Old 01-04-2016, 02:11 PM   #1788
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Sure, I get that. The car is already under weight in most cases. MIP has already said if they had enough interest they'd make them. Perhaps someone should start up a list?
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Old 01-05-2016, 01:33 AM   #1789
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Sure, I get that. The car is already under weight in most cases. MIP has already said if they had enough interest they'd make them. Perhaps someone should start up a list?

I could do that Here's the link:

Yokomo YZ-2 MIP Pucks List for those who want them
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Old 01-06-2016, 08:31 PM   #1790
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I Want to put a ball diff in my yz-2,will the kyosho thrust bearing fit?
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Old 01-08-2016, 06:57 AM   #1791
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Struggling for rear bite. Anybody cut the waterfall, or remove motor plate brace? I've notice on most all Lee Martin's cars there is no brace used.
I've tried without the L-brace but didn't like it. Running on carpet with slicks.
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Old 01-08-2016, 09:21 AM   #1792
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I spy a new front arm? or one that has been modified
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Old 01-08-2016, 10:33 AM   #1793
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Just wanted to send a shout out to Factory RC. I broke the rear shock tower on my Ymax conversion and the complete kit is around $55.00 but I only needed the shock tower. Contacted amain but they didn't have just the one piece so I shot an email to Factory RC and they responded within an hr. They let me purchase just the tower plus a few extras so I didn't have to buy the whole kit. Appreciate the great customer service guys!!
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Old 01-08-2016, 03:18 PM   #1794
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Originally Posted by joeymdz View Post
I spy a new front arm? or one that has been modified
http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...-008fg/p417664

also

http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...008gfg/p453706

but you'll also need

http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...2-017g/p417671
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Old 01-08-2016, 09:23 PM   #1795
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Well here is the difference...


Hope that worked since Im on my phone.

That is the difference between the stock yz-2 axle setup vs a b5m setup with the protek titanium axle for the yz-2. Calipers out to be a couple mm. Since im in the middle of assembly i only test fit some thing but it looks like it could work. Depends on the driveshaft plunge which i will take a look at later.

So here are the thoughts-
1) i bought an AE ball diff and it fit fine regarding gear mesh with the idlers. It required 0.12mm spacers on each side. I used (5) 0.02 and (2) 0.01 of yokomo shims, without the shims it is really lose in the diff. With these shims I still left a slight side to side action with the trans case fully tightened.
2) i bought the AE b5/b5m MIP 17.5 kit and used the MIP outdrives on the diff
3) i bought the custom works dirt oval blades (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBHZE&P=7). Use these on my sprint cars. They fit the stock yokomo dogbone pins just fine. This means we could at the very least just use the $20 in mip outdrives for ae diff for lightweight and still stock axles. The blades are just like the orange pucks just a tad different design. Again, this would ONLY be if the MIP cva length is too long and we have to stick with stock axles
4) my hold up right now is that the barrels that go into the dogbone that the axle attachment pin slides through is smaller on a yokomo than it is on the AE mip parts. Since the MIP puck kit doesnt come with those barrels ill run and pick them up tomorrow. I will need part # 91438 from AE (http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...c91438/p275213)
5) the mip dogbone part, the ball flange, fits perfectly into the protek axle. Just need the above stated barrel
6) i test fit the mip assembly and with the arms level it looks like the pins are halfway into the outdrive. However this wasnt ride height or if my camber was off on the hub. This will require a second test when i get things finished up


Last edited by Crawlin; 01-09-2016 at 05:02 AM. Reason: spelling
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Old 01-08-2016, 11:05 PM   #1796
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crawlin View Post
Well here is the difference...


Hole that worked since Im on my phone.

That is the difference between the stock yz-2 axle setup vs a b5m setup with the protek titanium axle for the yz-2. Calipers out to be a couple mm. Since im in the middle of assembly i only test fit some thing but it looks like it could work. Depends on the driveshaft plunge which i will take a look at later.

So here is the thoughts-
1) i bought an AE ball diff and it fit fine regarding gear mesh with the idlers. It required 0.12mm soacers on each side
2) i bought the MIP 17.5 kit and used the MIP outdrives on the diff
3) i bought the custom works dirt oval blades. Use these on my sprint cars. They fit the stock yokomo dogbone pins just fine. This means we could at the very least just use the $20 in mip outdrives for ae diff for lightweight and still stock axles. The blades are just like the orange pucks just a tad different design
4) my hold up right now is that the barrels that go into the dogbone that the axle attachment pin slides through is smaller on a yokomo than it is on the AE mip parts. Since the MIP puck kit doesnt come with those barrels ill run and pick them up tomorrow
5) the mip dogbone part, the ball flange, fits perfectly into the protek axle. Just need the above stated barrel
6) i test fit the mip assemply and with the arms level it looks like the pins are halfway into the outdrive. However this wasnt ride height or if my camber was off on the hub. This will require a second test when i get things finished up


WOW that's pretty good work right there. I hope this works out well. Can't wait for the finish
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Old 01-09-2016, 06:49 AM   #1797
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good work right there Crawlin

something that might help you crawlin ....you can add bmax rear arms or yz4 arms plus the yokomo 5mm hex and i think the track width would be close to the same and help with dog bone plunge/travel to prevent binding if you wanted to use yok options/diff ...also im not for sure but i think the bmax4 rear alum upright hub(black one) spaces the whole drive assembly away from the diff then all you need is your killer diff/puck assembly

non the less killer job dude! i love seeing mods like this ...for dirt i used the ball diff and bmax drive shafts so i could get more droop anyway this mod would solve this for the stock guys
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Old 01-09-2016, 07:43 AM   #1798
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Thanks for the tip. Might have to try those rear arms out. I am running on a med-high traction clay track(where the Spektrum/Horizon Hobby races are held). I bought the 5mm hexes to narrow the track width a bit in hopes of a little more traction so i'll have to see how the arms affect it. Amain shows that the yz-2 and yz-4 rear arms are the same from the compatibility tab, so maybe its just the Bmax rear arms. I did see on amain the 74mm arms, are you talking about those then? http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...008rs4/p474525



and were you talking about these - http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...415r00/p474568

I unfortunately waited to order these in the event the only way to make the axle fit was to use the B5m axles/hub. So will have to put them on a list since I don't want to use the stock plastic ones anyways.

Soon as the AT&T guy is out of the house I can get heading over to Trackside to pick up the other parts I need. Should have some sort of answers by 1pm cst, LMAO
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Old 01-09-2016, 07:59 AM   #1799
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The bmax +1 rear arms will work .
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Old 01-09-2016, 04:14 PM   #1800
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Alright guys, sorry for the delay. Did alot more messing around with other things and finished up all the wiring. Have to cut down the servo and transponder wiring a bit to tidy it up.

Anyways, my setup -

Futaba S9551 Servo (shorty)
Futaba R204gf-e Receiver
ORCA VX3 ESC
ORCA Infinite Ultra 4800mah shorty
EA Motorsports/Revtek 24k 17.5

I have the setup in the typical line fasion like Lee's layout.

I have the G-force weight distribution scale system for my dirt oval cars, so I tossed the buggy on.

It has a 41(front) / 59(rear) weight distribution. I'll probably add a small lead piece to the left rear chassis and that will help the L/R bias, but its pretty close. As for overall weight, I have alot of room to spare to get up to legal, but I have 2 battery weights I can use.

Now on the the puck system - Found a negative that I didn't think of. The pins that hold the axle to the dogbone is bigger on the yokomo than it is on the AE setup. So I can't fit the larger yokomo pin through the cva barrel of the AE setup. I had to use the AE pin. The length was ok, but the pin thickness is smaller. It might be a cause for a concern. I assembled it completely and put the cover plate over the axle that holds the pin in and it seems fine. I broke in the diff and rolled it around the house and no clicking or anything. Its something for me to watch.

On to pictures - This is a 24mm Front / 23mm Rear ride height with -1* camber





This next one is compressed. It has the bind when the rear of the chassis is 1-2mm off the ground.



This is with full droop based on a 2 hole tower/inner hole arm and a 99mm center-to-center on the eyelets shock length



Overall, if the car lands hard off a larger jump, it will have some bind at those driveshafts. At my home track, we don't normally have larger jumps more of a flowing track style with a couple double-double type things. I think my car would be ok. I'll be testing Monday and racing Tuesday so can report back. If the YZ-4 arms are 1mm wider, that would probably be a pretty safe bet to get for the $5 the arms are. Just would hate the lose the track width adjustability. I think its hitting the interal diff screw cap and/or the diff nut on the opposite side. The blades aren't bottoming out on the inside of the outdrive slots

Last edited by Crawlin; 01-09-2016 at 04:32 PM.
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