Wease

iTrader: (77)

The Mugen is as close to indestructible as it gets. My first spare order was simply front shock shafts, front lower arms and front upper arms. If you're going to break anything it will likely be from a really hard hit to the front of the car. However, you probably will never use them. My second order was just shock o-rings, diff o-rings, diff gaskets and pins to replace the end of the dog bones.

rcracenut

iTrader: (52)

Anyone try the underdrive gears? How do you like it?

snarky

I'm use it since mbx7. Rear underdrive best for track with low grip. More easy drive, easy turn in low grip. In high grip i'm use underdrive both - rear and front with more tight diff oil. Tip from Lee Martin about gear and other l-m-racing.co.uk/?p=660

OfnaJoe

iTrader: (58)

Only wear I have had are the pins, and that's not too fast. I bought extra pins and just replace them as needed. I have heard of people breaking front arms and seen 1 break local, a guy came up short on a huge triple and snapped it. I have not broke one yet, but if I know I can't make a jump when I approach it I will back off and try not to wreck.

OfnaJoe

iTrader: (58)

Get a spare spur too just in case. A local guy stripped his because the motor slid over. I did not have one until I seen this, now I do.

spurcheck

iTrader: (1)

Thank you Wease and OfnaJoe for taking the time to respond to my request. I'm a stickler for being prepared and self sufficient. I try not to count on hobby shops to have replacement parts so I'm much more comfortable arriving at the track with at least some known wear and/or breakage parts. I've now made a list and will get them ordered so I have some of them before my maiden voyage with the car. Also, I saw a company called DE racing makes some skid plates for front and rear of the buggy,,,, thoughts?

OfnaJoe

iTrader: (58)

No problem, I have almost a complete car in parts in my box, and for the DE Racing skids, I love them. I have the front bumper/skid and the regular rear skid on my Reco I just built

Wease

iTrader: (77)

I also use the DE racing front and rear skid plates and I like them a lot. They really keep the under side of the entire chassis from getting beat up. I only race and some of my racing buddies don't like the DE rear skid plate because its so thick. They feel the rear skid plate can catch the tops of jumps and deep ruts and slow the car up. I've never noticed that, so I keep using them. There are companies that make a metal rear skid plate that is super thin to reduce the chance of skid plate getting caught on something. LeadFinger RC is one of those companies.

I also agree about getting some dog bone pins for the drive shafts. I replace mine every time I re-do the diffs. If you keep fresh pins in the dog bones the out-drives will last forever on the Mugen. I bought the Hudy Pin replacement tool and I love it. It's expensive at $100 but it paid for itself in a half a season between my buggy and truggy. When you consider the price of out-drives and/or universal joints compared to a pack of 10 replacement pins, it's a no brainer.

Dont Hack Me

iTrader: (1)

Im looking to do some weight savings on my mugen. I ran 6500 and 5000 back to back on an indoor track, 5000 was the winner hands down. I had plenty of rear grip, stable, very reactive, faster lap times....all around better. Outdoor will be a different beast of course, but Im looking to cut some weight so i can throw in some as needed. Try it at the corners, or the diffs. Has anyone had any luck with this. I know i can cut the weight between carbon towers and lundfords options. Has anyone tried to do this? If someone has and really didnt see any difference. Im not even going to waste the time, but its somehting i would like to look at.

snarky

Differences between carbon and alu towers very small. Less than 10gr. Not interesting. Best result - change 4S for 3S and motor 2200 or more Kv. I'm racing this config and all ok. Weght 3250 with titan turnbukle and alu drive cup.

OfnaJoe

iTrader: (58)

Did you just do the rear shocks or front too? Haven't noticed any rubbing on the front

goldy

iTrader: (8)

Snarky, how do you gear your 3s. I have a pro4hd 3000kv I used to run in my tekno. And what esc do you run, another weight saving is using a capable 1/10 esc with 3s.

werner sline

can you compair the durability of the eb48.2 and the mbx7 ?

Dont Hack Me

iTrader: (1)

I was a team driver for Tekno so now Ive had them both. Tekno is very good at updating the molds and parts if something isnt correct. If it needs adjust for durability they will do it. I think Mugen is a little better in quality. Better quality equals better durability. They are both on par for how strong they are. Your not gonna just break them but i do feel mugen is the better of the two. Mugen didn't win by a land slide but it was clear cut to me when i was assembling the kits. who had the better quality all around

werner sline

ok thanks, I think tekno just need some time to get to the perfect buggy. mugen had more time to make their mbx series evolve and up to date.

what about the suspension travel ? it seems to me that the eb48 has bigger shocks and more suspension travel, am I wrong ?