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Old 12-26-2015, 09:47 PM   #1396
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Having a little issue with my buggy sliding out around the middle of turns off throttle and sometimes at exit. Running zero on drag brake. If I get on the throttle it straightens out. Indoor clay track, med-bite. A couple of races ago the track was real tacky and it was better, but still a little loose even in those conditions. It was good until about a month ago. I've made some adjustments here and there, but nothing seems to help much. I replaced shock oil a while back and replaced the stock 550 in front and back with AE 47.5 in front and AE45 in the rear since AE is only oil available at LHS so I don't know if that's the issue? Maybe too thick? I've attached a pic of my latest set-up.
You could also try the under-drive rear gears. I use them at all the tracks I run on, regardless of the track size.
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Old 12-26-2015, 10:27 PM   #1397
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You could also try the under-drive rear gears. I use them at all the tracks I run on, regardless of the track size.
btw : do you really have to use the 12t with the 42t crowngear ? or can you use 12 and 44 ?
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Old 12-27-2015, 12:54 AM   #1398
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Having a little issue with my buggy sliding out around the middle of turns off throttle and sometimes at exit. Running zero on drag brake. If I get on the throttle it straightens out. Indoor clay track, med-bite. A couple of races ago the track was real tacky and it was better, but still a little loose even in those conditions. It was good until about a month ago. I've made some adjustments here and there, but nothing seems to help much. I replaced shock oil a while back and replaced the stock 550 in front and back with AE 47.5 in front and AE45 in the rear since AE is only oil available at LHS so I don't know if that's the issue? Maybe too thick? I've attached a pic of my latest set-up.
A couple of things stand out in your setup. Shock oil is too heavy for current temps (maybe 115F day at Fear Farm) and diff oil is too light for indoor clay medium bite. The best suggestion I could make is to look at Drake's MBX7R eco Standard Setup (Download from the Mugen website). Note the rear shock position, shock oil weight, and diff oil weight.

Good luck!
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Old 12-27-2015, 10:04 AM   #1399
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btw : do you really have to use the 12t with the 42t crowngear ? or can you use 12 and 44 ?
I'm pretty sure you do to get the mesh right.
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Old 12-31-2015, 06:30 PM   #1400
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A couple of things stand out in your setup. Shock oil is too heavy for current temps (maybe 115F day at Fear Farm) and diff oil is too light for indoor clay medium bite. The best suggestion I could make is to look at Drake's MBX7R eco Standard Setup (Download from the Mugen website). Note the rear shock position, shock oil weight, and diff oil weight.

Good luck!
To each his own. My shock are heavier as are almost every mugen at our track. my diffs are 5 7 3. I started out with kit setup. Kept changing until I got the feel I like. Basically one setup is not magic for everyone. Trial and error. My lap times dropped all day with every change I made. Since then only change I have made is tires and fresh batteries.
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Old 01-04-2016, 09:25 AM   #1401
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I'm about to purchase this buggy so could you guys please tell me which parts break most often because my local hobby shop doesn't carry parts for any of the good buggies (only losi and associated). Also if you could put the part number that would be great. Thanks.
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Old 01-04-2016, 06:11 PM   #1402
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Available at the US Distributor!
Just recived mine from your shop thanks.
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Old 01-07-2016, 04:31 AM   #1403
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To each his own. My shock are heavier as are almost every mugen at our track. my diffs are 5 7 3. I started out with kit setup. Kept changing until I got the feel I like. Basically one setup is not magic for everyone. Trial and error. My lap times dropped all day with every change I made. Since then only change I have made is tires and fresh batteries.
you can test 10-7-3 450 front 400 rear
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Old 01-08-2016, 09:38 AM   #1404
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Thanks for advice. I didn't like 7 7 3. Pretty sure 10 7 3 be less turn in for me. Our track is tight with lots of 180 turns. 5 in front gives me most off power turn in. It's just personal preference. I want all the turn in I can get. I don't mind losing on power steering. I finish the turn with the rear on throttle. It works for me. Might not for others for others. I pass a lot of people when they run just a little wide in a slow corner. My setup turns off power like a dream. At the end of day I run out of driver skilz, not because car isn't good. Usually in the back of the a or sometimes fighting for bump from b.

Anyone running the f/r universals yet? I have them, just no time to wrench or race right now. Any difference in handling?
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Old 01-08-2016, 12:03 PM   #1405
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Originally Posted by patrick lsp View Post
Thanks for advice. I didn't like 7 7 3. Pretty sure 10 7 3 be less turn in for me. Our track is tight with lots of 180 turns. 5 in front gives me most off power turn in. It's just personal preference. I want all the turn in I can get. I don't mind losing on power steering. I finish the turn with the rear on throttle. It works for me. Might not for others for others. I pass a lot of people when they run just a little wide in a slow corner. My setup turns off power like a dream. At the end of day I run out of driver skilz, not because car isn't good. Usually in the back of the a or sometimes fighting for bump from b.

Anyone running the f/r universals yet? I have them, just no time to wrench or race right now. Any difference in handling?
I have them but not installed yet... I doubt it will be any difference in feel, maybe a bit more free rolling but thats it.. The stockers with the t-works pin sleeve works great,less chance for a failure.. Unis are good for that too
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Old 01-10-2016, 11:27 PM   #1406
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Remember the 7r tower is shorter,so he would need the shorter rear shocks, other than that, the 7 is just as good, even a 6 Eco is still good
In reference, if i was to put the 7r rear tower onto the 7 and put 4mm spacers inside the 7 rear shocks that should give me a similar effect for the lower c.o.g. please note i do say similar
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Old 01-11-2016, 12:55 PM   #1407
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In reference, if i was to put the 7r rear tower onto the 7 and put 4mm spacers inside the 7 rear shocks that should give me a similar effect for the lower c.o.g. please note i do say similar
yes, or just put R rear shafts in they are shorter.
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Old 01-12-2016, 07:08 AM   #1408
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Can anyone tell me if the mbx7r eco parts can be used on a mbx7 eco?
thanks
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Old 01-12-2016, 07:50 AM   #1409
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Can anyone tell me if the mbx7r eco parts can be used on a mbx7 eco?
thanks
Yes, but certain things will need to he change.. Like if you use the rear universals, you will need the rear arms.. When hou break a part, start buying 7r parts..
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Old 01-12-2016, 07:54 AM   #1410
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In reference, if i was to put the 7r rear tower onto the 7 and put 4mm spacers inside the 7 rear shocks that should give me a similar effect for the lower c.o.g. please note i do say similar
If you are gonna doo all that, just keep it as it is... The 7r shocks are worth it.. Stock 7 is still good... Call mugen and ask adam for a better answer as to the effects ...try it your way, it might work out...you can get shocks cheap on ebay
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