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Old 12-15-2015, 12:27 PM   #1381
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Originally Posted by patrick lsp View Post
Yes sell that monster to Werner Sline. He needs more power. Lol. 1900 is all anyone ever needs imo. I have tried big motors, usually more wheel spin and hotter temps.


my friends, I 'm no longer a pure basher : a track has open not too far away and it's slowly getting serious. I run my mbx7r there and quickly knew my basher setup was wrong for racing !
first thing was to drop 2 teeth on the pinion : for racing with a 2350kv motor, I put 12 tooth !
then I put some blockade tires, more toe out, different shock positions...
I had some fun to learn this very dusty track. I loved how the rear of the car starts to slide without braking when you turn off power

There is no jumps yet, but I helped the club by providing a ramp.
so racing with a 2600kv might be too much KV. maybe on 3s ??

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Old 12-16-2015, 12:08 PM   #1382
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Does anyone have a pic of their buggy on set up scales ?
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Old 12-16-2015, 05:57 PM   #1383
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So… I’ve been on a slight hiatus from RC as I started a new job, have a pregnant wife and an almost 2 year old that have been keeping me busy for the past sixth months. I bought this kit and built it at the beginning of the summer to keep me occupied while my kid napped (I am a teacher and had time to kill). It has a T8i 1950 (I know, not ideal for some) and HW xerun sct pro. It has not seen dirt as I have every intention of getting in to racing it and when I do get to play I bash around my EB48.2. I also don’t think it is wise to bash that current set-up given the temps it would produce. Since I have not had the time to actually make my first attempts at racing (for reasons stated above and I can’t be away from football on the only days of racing at my local track) this thing has been in new condition on the shelf. I have dug through and contributed to the thread in the past but what I am looking for is what your thoughts are on necessary upgrades. I ask because its Christmas and I will probably have some money to sink in to some option parts. I know set-up for a noob racer is probably a first priority but if you had to make a list of ways to blow some money on this car what would it be. Being that some aftermarket stuff is probably not necessary for me at this point; why not spend some money on my current obsession. Being able to cut some necessary weight is on my mind and I do have a small list of ways to do that from past posts. Since you guys enjoy talking about this stuff (even though this answer can be found in parts of this thread) I figured why not ask for a consolidated list of things to take this car to another level, even if I don’t really need them. Thanks!
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Old 12-16-2015, 06:25 PM   #1384
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the mbx7r is really good out of the box !

of course, tires are important , so that's the first thing to buy

if you crash, i suggest a pair of lower front arms, as they are quite fragile

as the car is so good, you can focus on the electronic : good lighter lipo, fast chargers, fast servo, lighter motors, some different pinion for the motors

the only actual option for the mugen i can think of is a aluminium servo saver. It works better than the stock plastic one...

the only thing you really need is time : and that my friend, is the real deal. No blinky parts can give you that !

now sell me your EB48.2 ! I want to bash one !
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Old 12-17-2015, 01:27 PM   #1385
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Having a little issue with my buggy sliding out around the middle of turns off throttle and sometimes at exit. Running zero on drag brake. If I get on the throttle it straightens out. Indoor clay track, med-bite. A couple of races ago the track was real tacky and it was better, but still a little loose even in those conditions. It was good until about a month ago. I've made some adjustments here and there, but nothing seems to help much. I replaced shock oil a while back and replaced the stock 550 in front and back with AE 47.5 in front and AE45 in the rear since AE is only oil available at LHS so I don't know if that's the issue? Maybe too thick? I've attached a pic of my latest set-up.
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The official Mugen MBX7R Eco thread!-img_2086.jpg  
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Old 12-17-2015, 01:49 PM   #1386
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Having a little issue with my buggy sliding out around the middle of turns off throttle and sometimes at exit. Running zero on drag brake. If I get on the throttle it straightens out. Indoor clay track, med-bite. A couple of races ago the track was real tacky and it was better, but still a little loose even in those conditions. It was good until about a month ago. I've made some adjustments here and there, but nothing seems to help much. I replaced shock oil a while back and replaced the stock 550 in front and back with AE 47.5 in front and AE45 in the rear since AE is only oil available at LHS so I don't know if that's the issue? Maybe too thick? I've attached a pic of my latest set-up.
on the rear tower camber link, move to inside middle. it will slow the rotation of the car and add 30g of weight to rear. I don't know why, but the aluminum rear hubs really dialed in my rear of car. You already know this but TIRES TIRES TIRES.
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Old 12-17-2015, 01:58 PM   #1387
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Originally Posted by worm304 View Post
So… I’ve been on a slight hiatus from RC as I started a new job, have a pregnant wife and an almost 2 year old that have been keeping me busy for the past sixth months. I bought this kit and built it at the beginning of the summer to keep me occupied while my kid napped (I am a teacher and had time to kill). It has a T8i 1950 (I know, not ideal for some) and HW xerun sct pro. It has not seen dirt as I have every intention of getting in to racing it and when I do get to play I bash around my EB48.2. I also don’t think it is wise to bash that current set-up given the temps it would produce. Since I have not had the time to actually make my first attempts at racing (for reasons stated above and I can’t be away from football on the only days of racing at my local track) this thing has been in new condition on the shelf. I have dug through and contributed to the thread in the past but what I am looking for is what your thoughts are on necessary upgrades. I ask because its Christmas and I will probably have some money to sink in to some option parts. I know set-up for a noob racer is probably a first priority but if you had to make a list of ways to blow some money on this car what would it be. Being that some aftermarket stuff is probably not necessary for me at this point; why not spend some money on my current obsession. Being able to cut some necessary weight is on my mind and I do have a small list of ways to do that from past posts. Since you guys enjoy talking about this stuff (even though this answer can be found in parts of this thread) I figured why not ask for a consolidated list of things to take this car to another level, even if I don’t really need them. Thanks!
my experience , lighting a car = reduced durability. these cars are so fast its not needed to lighten the car unless running at expert or pro levels.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/search?s=mbx7r

shock pistons
springs
carbon tower rear
carbon top plate
servo thing slime said
m2c rear arm weights
steel pillow balls
smc batteries
shinny/colored nuts and washers.
alumimun shims/washers instead of plastic ones in kit.
HOT BODIES 10mm one piece wing mount
nice wheel nuts
aluminum skid
TIRES TIRES TIRES


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Old 12-17-2015, 02:04 PM   #1388
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Originally Posted by Matt1970 View Post
Having a little issue with my buggy sliding out around the middle of turns off throttle and sometimes at exit. Running zero on drag brake. If I get on the throttle it straightens out. Indoor clay track, med-bite. A couple of races ago the track was real tacky and it was better, but still a little loose even in those conditions. It was good until about a month ago. I've made some adjustments here and there, but nothing seems to help much. I replaced shock oil a while back and replaced the stock 550 in front and back with AE 47.5 in front and AE45 in the rear since AE is only oil available at LHS so I don't know if that's the issue? Maybe too thick? I've attached a pic of my latest set-up.
Try 4000 rear diff oil..also yes,go lighter rear.. Try 35wt... Obe thing we run is more rear toe.. Have the toe pill "dot" facing outward.. Lower outside corner.. It gives 3* toe... Play with rear camber links... You can even remove the rear swaybar... Like he said.. Tires!!! Just because a track is clay,dont be affraid to use softer compound tires,like soft or super softs.. We have not run our car indoor..accept for when we ran the x6
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Old 12-17-2015, 07:57 PM   #1389
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Try 4000 rear diff oil..also yes,go lighter rear.. Try 35wt... Obe thing we run is more rear toe.. Have the toe pill "dot" facing outward.. Lower outside corner.. It gives 3* toe... Play with rear camber links... You can even remove the rear swaybar... Like he said.. Tires!!! Just because a track is clay,dont be affraid to use softer compound tires,like soft or super softs.. We have not run our car indoor..accept for when we ran the x6
Thanks. I'll try these changes. Tires should be ok. Everyone is pretty much using same tire and mine aren't very old. Front shock oil ok at 47.5 AE ?
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Old 12-17-2015, 10:19 PM   #1390
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Thanks. I'll try these changes. Tires should be ok. Everyone is pretty much using same tire and mine aren't very old. Front shock oil ok at 47.5 AE ?
Front is thick too, with the sock Pistons I run 45wt during the summer.. But now that it's cold I run 37.5 tlr up front.. Try ae 40wt to start
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Old 12-18-2015, 08:57 AM   #1391
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Remember to look at cst rating when running assoc oil. If trying a mugen setup they are different. Mugen 550 not same as assoc. 55. Assoc has cst on bottle.
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Old 12-20-2015, 10:46 AM   #1392
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Having a little issue with my buggy sliding out around the middle of turns off throttle and sometimes at exit. Running zero on drag brake. If I get on the throttle it straightens out. Indoor clay track, med-bite. A couple of races ago the track was real tacky and it was better, but still a little loose even in those conditions. It was good until about a month ago. I've made some adjustments here and there, but nothing seems to help much. I replaced shock oil a while back and replaced the stock 550 in front and back with AE 47.5 in front and AE45 in the rear since AE is only oil available at LHS so I don't know if that's the issue? Maybe too thick? I've attached a pic of my latest set-up.
Shock oil is way too thick, IMO. I'd also try switching to 27f/26r on RH. The lower rear ride will make it a little more stable in turns. You could also try changing the AS to 0 and like hairymuffin said, give yourself 3* rear toe. My shock package is a lot different than yours. I'm running 6x1.3 pistons on all 4 corners and 9x1.5 (black) springs front and 10.25x1.5 (black) rears. For oil, I'm running 40f/32.5r. Its a pretty solid shock package. I'd post my setup sheet here but can't figure out how. Pretty new to the forum and haven't figured all this out yet.
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Old 12-21-2015, 12:27 PM   #1393
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http://www.neobuggy.net/2015/12/21/m...al-driveshaft/

Mugen MBX7R front & rear center universal driveshaft

cvd's are no more hype !
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Old 12-21-2015, 03:55 PM   #1394
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Available at the US Distributor!
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Last edited by mebolson; 12-21-2015 at 04:46 PM.
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Old 12-21-2015, 07:39 PM   #1395
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Available at the US Distributor!
Yeah buddy! I ordered mine earlier and just got a notification of "shipped" status. I think these will definitely be an upgrade and last much longer.
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