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Old 11-28-2015, 02:38 PM   #1336
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Wow, this question stopped this thread
w.e then just ignore it. no need to be a ****
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Old 11-29-2015, 09:58 AM   #1337
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This is something i have always wanted to try but the cost held me back. I found a mbx7 and the price was right so i bought it.

I have been racing 1/10 indoor for 6 years now so im in no way new to the hobby, but are there any glaring differences ill need to keep an eye on when it comes to 1/8 scale vs 1/10?
No big difference. throw a mbx7r rear tower on it add little weight in rear and you'll see big difference.
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Old 11-29-2015, 10:06 AM   #1338
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Do anyone know where I can find a chart for the front upper and lower arm pills? Also the caster clips?
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Old 11-29-2015, 05:16 PM   #1339
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No big difference. throw a mbx7r rear tower on it add little weight in rear and you'll see big difference.
Remember the 7r tower is shorter,so he would need the shorter rear shocks, other than that, the 7 is just as good, even a 6 Eco is still good
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Old 11-29-2015, 05:58 PM   #1340
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I want to covert my Eco to nitro. Anybody done this before? I need the part list.

Thanks
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Old 11-29-2015, 09:42 PM   #1341
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I want to covert my Eco to nitro. Anybody done this before? I need the part list.

Thanks
You would be better off buying a used kit for $200 or less, I just through out a used chassis, that's the most expensive part...you need
Tank/mounts
Center diff mount,motor mount, complete clutch, radio plate,radio box.. It's a lot, or trade it...
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Old 11-29-2015, 10:21 PM   #1342
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Originally Posted by hairymuffin View Post
You would be better off buying a used kit for $200 or less, I just through out a used chassis, that's the most expensive part...you need
Tank/mounts
Center diff mount,motor mount, complete clutch, radio plate,radio box.. It's a lot, or trade it...
He's right, electric to nitro way to much. Nitro to electric easier.
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Old 11-30-2015, 06:00 PM   #1343
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I decided i am going to use two 2s stick packs in this car. I heard that running the car that way provides better balance ( i dont see why, its a very minimal shift in weight) anyways my motor should arrive at the local indoor track Wednesday. Ill probably do some practice laps on tge indoor track but i dont want to mess with setup until the outdoor track is built in the spring
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Old 12-02-2015, 01:17 PM   #1344
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ok my reinforced armed failed anyway !
The metal piece I put on the arms worked, but the problem just went a little bit further.
the arm bents after each hit until it starts tearing up at the antiroll bar screw



This system took a good beating and I would suggest it for light bashing.

But I have to use other arms to resist longer to hard bashing.

I have a hobao hyperstar E. I reinforced its arms with the same metal parts and those can take some serious beating ! I didn't break them until now !

But I notice a big difference between the hobao hyperstar E arms and the mbx7r arms : hobao made softer upper arms ; mugen made very hard upper arms
I guess mugen wanted a rigid suspension for a better handling. But those softer upper arms help the hobao to absorb big hits. Pivotball suspension can take some good beating because both upper and lower arms absorb the hits.

so I will put hobao hyperstar E front arms on my mugen !

Last edited by werner sline; 12-02-2015 at 01:46 PM.
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Old 12-02-2015, 01:37 PM   #1345
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this is how it looks :
the hobao hyperstar E arms are 5m shorter than the mbx7r arms. it could be a direct fit with some shimming at the lower pivotball screw, but the mugen pivotball screws are not long enough.
And if you don't put shimmings ( and make the whole front 10mm narrower ) the universal joints will be too long.

So I put the complete front suspension from a hyperstar E ( all hyperstar arms, all hyperstar pivotballs with knuckles ). they got longer pivot balls screws.

by the way, statement of the day : the hyperstar E has BIGGER BALLS ! no kidding, hobao used bigger pivot balls...

So it didn't require much work : I only drilled the hobao upper arms to 4mm, shortened the upper arms 3mm
here you go :









I built a massiv lipo holder ( adds 50gr to the car ) to protect my soft pack lipos. I will go back to the plastic lipo holder as soon as I have hardpacks !

Last edited by werner sline; 12-02-2015 at 01:49 PM.
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Old 12-06-2015, 04:32 AM   #1346
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Will the Jconcepts Silencer Mbx7 body, fit my Mbx7r eco, i mean perfect fit?
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Old 12-07-2015, 08:17 AM   #1347
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Default Just purchased 7r eco, setup tips?

Hey guys I'm new to Mugen and just bought a MBX7r Eco. I race indoor on medium bite indoor clay/dirt mix. What should i start out with as far as Shock oils, Diffs, springs, etc? Typical tire used at our track is clay electrons, clay typos, or supersoft HB beams
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Old 12-07-2015, 09:51 AM   #1348
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Will the Jconcepts Silencer Mbx7 body, fit my Mbx7r eco, i mean perfect fit?
JC makes a body specific to the ECO so I'd go for that one
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Old 12-08-2015, 08:11 PM   #1349
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I ended up liking 573 in diffs after a couple days of changes. 550/500 with 1.3 5 holes.
Car is good. Way better than I can wheel it. You are welcome to drive it next time I see you. Drives a lot like my losi did, but more stable.
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Old 12-08-2015, 08:26 PM   #1350
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Just found out today that mugen is changing they're material they use on the arms to make them much more stronger on the new mbx8. I was looking to retrofit a different brand of arms on my buggy until I found this out today.
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