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Old 10-04-2015, 11:47 AM   #1246
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Well I've been going to a local outdoor track, 8th scale, I'm practicing/learning others may view me as bashing but it not my intent.... LOL!

I just don't want to be way under powered or way over powered. I'd like to be in the "ballpark" for power so that I can practice getting better "around" the power that I would need to somewhat hang and compete with all the long timers.
2200kv fine , you can gear down or turn epa on radio down if needed. Your little over powered. I run 2050kv and I've seen set up sheets of pros using 2100 and 2200kv.
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Old 10-05-2015, 05:12 AM   #1247
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i was bashing around on a ramp with small jump. actually the rear bushing is not Brocken. the pin went through the front bushing only.
i 've beat the s*** out my hobao hyper 9e and this never happened like on the mbx !
Odd break for sure, but you can break anything if hit the right way. I don't think the Hobao stuff is as good for racing, but it does flex more for bashing like the Traxxas stuff. I would say the Mugen is tough, but more rigid for racing than bashing. Just my opinion.
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Old 10-05-2015, 01:48 PM   #1248
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Odd break for sure, but you can break anything if hit the right way. I don't think the Hobao stuff is as good for racing, but it does flex more for bashing like the Traxxas stuff. I would say the Mugen is tough, but more rigid for racing than bashing. Just my opinion.
I agree with you, the mugen plastic is more rigid. i will breack a lot more, that's for sure ! but i can't tell now if the mbx7 is a better basher that the hyper 9e.
i will let the mugen 100% original first. as soon as it breacks, I will apply some of my recipes ( metallic parts )

some racing pics from France. a mbx7 can be seen also. really nice pics
http://www.rcmag.com/modules.php?nam...wtopic&t=62296

Last edited by werner sline; 10-05-2015 at 02:13 PM.
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Old 10-06-2015, 10:27 AM   #1249
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I agree with you, the mugen plastic is more rigid. i will breack a lot more, that's for sure ! but i can't tell now if the mbx7 is a better basher that the hyper 9e.
i will let the mugen 100% original first. as soon as it breacks, I will apply some of my recipes ( metallic parts )

some racing pics from France. a mbx7 can be seen also. really nice pics
http://www.rcmag.com/modules.php?nam...wtopic&t=62296
Stay away from metal a arms and such. You loose what flex you have making other things break that are harder to fix and more work to remove. Stock is so good on this buggy. You can bash with anything, but still have fun and drive it clean No concrete curbs, telephone poles, fence post or landing on the shock towers.. Rubber side down works!
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Old 10-06-2015, 01:53 PM   #1250
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Stay away from metal a arms and such. You loose what flex you have making other things break that are harder to fix and more work to remove. Stock is so good on this buggy. You can bash with anything, but still have fun and drive it clean No concrete curbs, telephone poles, fence post or landing on the shock towers.. Rubber side down works!
i agree with you : complete steel or aluminium arms won't work
but my recipe is something in between : i added a little piece of steel where the plastic usually fails
I keep the plastic flex in the rest of the arm. this works really well for me
here on my hyper 9e. i also made this on my xray xt8 and will probably do it on my mbx7 too

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Old 10-07-2015, 11:16 AM   #1251
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This is a race-spec buggy not a basher...
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Old 10-07-2015, 12:37 PM   #1252
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I can see why that helps. The arms are taking hits there. A TBR bumper/skid plate would help with that. The arms are hitting the ground when it bottoms out. Run full droop and thicker shock oil to keep arms from taking such a beating on the landing.
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Old 10-07-2015, 02:28 PM   #1253
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This is a race-spec buggy not a basher...
yes it's true that the beautiful mbx7 is too good to bash.
i checked the arrma typhoon before, which is really meant to be bash but i don't use 6s, the typhoon is too heavy and the fact that typhoon's users put mbx7's arms on the the typhoon is a clue !
+ mugen parts are easier to get
so I will soon bash the fecals out of my mbx7r eco and will tell you what breaks and if I was wrong on this choice. I bash a hobao hyper 9e which was also meant for racing back in the days and with some modifications , it's quite durable...
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Old 10-07-2015, 02:36 PM   #1254
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I can see why that helps. The arms are taking hits there. A TBR bumper/skid plate would help with that. The arms are hitting the ground when it bottoms out. Run full droop and thicker shock oil to keep arms from taking such a beating on the landing.
thicker oil : done !
DE Racing Front Bumper Skid for Mugen MBX7 : done !
softer dirt is the landing area after the big jump : done !
perfect landing : well, backflips : ok, front flips : fails often ! 180: 1/3 fails
fun everytime : yes sir !
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Old 10-08-2015, 10:56 AM   #1255
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having fun, that is all that matters.
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Old 10-08-2015, 04:11 PM   #1256
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having fun, that is all that matters.
+1
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Old 10-08-2015, 05:20 PM   #1257
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by 180 I mean this :
- get a good jump that lets you enough air time
- right after the buggy leaves the ramp, hit 100% brakes + 100% steering on one side
- wait
- buggy lands flat heading to the ramp it just left
- laugh

you don't even need heavier tires, just a strong brake setting
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Old 10-09-2015, 02:05 PM   #1258
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With the Associated RC8B3e just come out, with all the comments about how that car was so "similar" to the MBX7Re, just curious if anyone tried to use the Associated A arms on the Mugen? Over here Associated parts are easier to come by than Mugen ones, and I also wonder if the Associated lower front A arms would be more sturdy than the Mugen ones...broke 3 of mine in less than 100 runs, all on the left side, they just break on me with no major crash...
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Old 10-11-2015, 03:12 PM   #1259
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Can someone please confirm for me which hole on the Ackerman plate gives the most Ackerman. Tried right at the front and right at the back and really can't tell any difference! If anything it looks like the middle hole gives more Ackerman! Ie less turn on the outside wheel.

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Old 10-11-2015, 03:35 PM   #1260
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Can someone please confirm for me which hole on the Ackerman plate gives the most Ackerman. Tried right at the front and right at the back and really can't tell any difference! If anything it looks like the middle hole gives more Ackerman! Ie less turn on the outside wheel.

Cheers
put the full steering on the left : notice how the holes at rear of the plate steers the left Wheel even more : you got more steering left, therefore more Ackermann

that's what I choose for more steering ( I admit, it was to mimic the tekno eb48 !! )

Last edited by werner sline; 10-11-2015 at 06:02 PM.
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