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Old 08-16-2015, 07:20 PM   #1036
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it's his, orange nose and tlr servo horn. Lol.
Sorry,meant to write "of" his buggy..I took the pic lol
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Old 08-16-2015, 07:31 PM   #1037
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Sorry,meant to write "of" his buggy..I took the pic lol
oooh. I think that clutch a crutch for the nitro guys who don't race 1/10 electric scale buggies . There not use to direct power . Lol.
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Old 08-16-2015, 07:41 PM   #1038
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oooh. I think that clutch a crutch for the nitro guys who don't race 1/10 electric scale buggies . There not use to direct power . Lol.
The clutch is good for rough tracks,also loose tracks...he runs it a lot.. Works good..
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Old 08-17-2015, 03:06 AM   #1039
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I recently ran a charity race over the weekend. As much as I love this car it, its performance wasn't up to par. I qualified 8th and i felt lucky to do that. The track was getting dusty and blown out. My buggy grabbed every single rut, it was very edgy and hard to drive. I didn't know what to do. Coming from Tekno, if it was edgy I would swap tires, and my Tekno never felt as planted as my Mugen. My Mugen felt to planted. I really needed it to slide a little over the ruts instead of grabbing them. I haven't had the car that long and this was the first time on a track like this with it. The setup i use outdoors has been awesome for me. Its felt really good and easy to drive until this past weekend. What do i have to do to get this thing to not be so edgy on the ruts/blown out sections?
I planned on testing this week if i can, thanks in advance
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Old 08-17-2015, 04:24 AM   #1040
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I recently ran a charity race over the weekend. As much as I love this car it, its performance wasn't up to par. I qualified 8th and i felt lucky to do that. The track was getting dusty and blown out. My buggy grabbed every single rut, it was very edgy and hard to drive. I didn't know what to do. Coming from Tekno, if it was edgy I would swap tires, and my Tekno never felt as planted as my Mugen. My Mugen felt to planted. I really needed it to slide a little over the ruts instead of grabbing them. I haven't had the car that long and this was the first time on a track like this with it. The setup i use outdoors has been awesome for me. Its felt really good and easy to drive until this past weekend. What do i have to do to get this thing to not be so edgy on the ruts/blown out sections?
I planned on testing this week if i can, thanks in advance
I'm just getting back into racing after several years break, but I used to cut down on the edginess by trimming the tread on the tires. On a larger block tire, say a Crime Fighter or Komodo Dragon2, you trim the outer row of tires at a 45 degree angle. Just use a set of cutt-off dykes and have at it. It would tame the car a ton.

I have some AKA Impacts and they sorta have this done to them, but I think I may trim them down some more to see how that works. I recently ran on a very blown out track and my car was edgy in the ruts as well. Running the Drake standard setup. But the track was VERY blown out so I havent cut them down yet.

Something to try if you feel like experimenting.
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Old 08-17-2015, 04:46 AM   #1041
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Questions?? Pre painted body for MBX7R

Which bitty design Pre painted body from amain will fit best for MBX7R with SMC 6500 4S?
Any help will be appreciated!
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Old 08-17-2015, 04:49 AM   #1042
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Originally Posted by Dont Hack Me View Post
I recently ran a charity race over the weekend. As much as I love this car it, its performance wasn't up to par. I qualified 8th and i felt lucky to do that. The track was getting dusty and blown out. My buggy grabbed every single rut, it was very edgy and hard to drive. I didn't know what to do. Coming from Tekno, if it was edgy I would swap tires, and my Tekno never felt as planted as my Mugen. My Mugen felt to planted. I really needed it to slide a little over the ruts instead of grabbing them. I haven't had the car that long and this was the first time on a track like this with it. The setup i use outdoors has been awesome for me. Its felt really good and easy to drive until this past weekend. What do i have to do to get this thing to not be so edgy on the ruts/blown out sections?
I planned on testing this week if i can, thanks in advance
where is your rear camber? 3* is good...pl blockades...also what hole is your camber link on your hubs? Also what springs?
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Old 08-17-2015, 04:56 AM   #1043
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Which bitty design Pre painted body from amain will fit best for MBX7R with SMC 6500 4S?
Any help will be appreciated!
It's hard to say because they don't make a body specific for the electric car.ive only used their older bodies on my x6 eco..their new bodies should be OK with good clearance
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Old 08-17-2015, 08:43 PM   #1044
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where is your rear camber? 3* is good...pl blockades...also what hole is your camber link on your hubs? Also what springs?
-2 for rear camber. Track was brand new so i started small and went big as it blew out fast. Hole Shots at the beginning. Megabites, impacts, blockades, city blocks finished on I-beams. I-beams helped a lot. I was on the longest rear. All the way in and down on the tower, all the way out on the hub, I believe it was at 9.25 Black front/ 10.25 Black rear.
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Old 08-17-2015, 09:53 PM   #1045
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Just pulled the trigger on one of these. Tower has some pretty ridiculous promotions running at the moment. Got 80 off plus 60 back in "e cash" plus an additional 25 dollar gift card. Just thought I'd pass the info along....with that said can anyone give me a starting point for oil and springs for smooth indoor med/high bite clay?
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Old 08-17-2015, 11:29 PM   #1046
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-2 for rear camber. Track was brand new so i started small and went big as it blew out fast. Hole Shots at the beginning. Megabites, impacts, blockades, city blocks finished on I-beams. I-beams helped a lot. I was on the longest rear. All the way in and down on the tower, all the way out on the hub, I believe it was at 9.25 Black front/ 10.25 Black rear.
A long rear camber link gives no camber gain in the turn when the car is cornering,it keeps your wheels up right and makes the wheels grab the ruts when cornering..I run long links on the nitro,but center hole on the hubs on ebuggy...add one more degree of camber...and no more than 27mm rear ride height
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Old 08-18-2015, 02:44 AM   #1047
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A long rear camber link gives no camber gain in the turn when the car is cornering,it keeps your wheels up right and makes the wheels grab the ruts when cornering..I run long links on the nitro,but center hole on the hubs on ebuggy...add one more degree of camber...and no more than 27mm rear ride height
Thanks I'll try that this weekend.Usually 25/26 or 26/27 ride height. With the previous buggy I ran that was the way to go in the ruff stuff. Going with a long link. Try to keep the tires as flat as possible in the turn so they would skip/slide over the ruts instead of digging the corners of the tire in. But yeah, this is not my old buggy. I'll give it a run, I know one thing. I can't be worse then last week
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Old 08-18-2015, 08:04 AM   #1048
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Thanks I'll try that this weekend.Usually 25/26 or 26/27 ride height. With the previous buggy I ran that was the way to go in the ruff stuff. Going with a long link. Try to keep the tires as flat as possible in the turn so they would skip/slide over the ruts instead of digging the corners of the tire in. But yeah, this is not my old buggy. I'll give it a run, I know one thing. I can't be worse then last week
If you go to www.lutzinator.com and look under the tips tab there is a lot of good info about camber links and suspension settings for rough tracks.
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Old 08-18-2015, 11:24 AM   #1049
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Hi, new MBX7r eco owner here. I was wondering what size pinions I should have on hand for it. I use a Tekin 2050kv gen 2 motor and I run on medium to large outdoor tracks. Thanks!
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Old 08-18-2015, 01:00 PM   #1050
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Hi, new MBX7r eco owner here. I was wondering what size pinions I should have on hand for it. I use a Tekin 2050kv gen 2 motor and I run on medium to large outdoor tracks. Thanks!
Bortz I was running a 14 tooth at Trains on Sunday with that same motor and saw motor temps around 160F. And that's without the cooling holes cut out of the body.
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