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Old 08-05-2015, 10:02 AM   #991
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Differences between carbon and alu towers very small. Less than 10gr. Not interesting. Best result - change 4S for 3S and motor 2200 or more Kv. I'm racing this config and all ok. Weght 3250 with titan turnbukle and alu drive cup.
hello

i drive my car also with 3s. 2650 kv mamba motor and a 15 pinion.
but how did you the 3250g? only titan turnbukle?

im thinking of putting a 1:10 3s esc (orion r10 60a) and a 10:1 motor 2400 kv in it. will it work with this weight?

The official Mugen MBX7R Eco thread!-mx7reco.jpg
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Old 08-06-2015, 04:08 PM   #992
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Help me decide. Would you buy 4 5000 mah or 3 6500. It's a toss for me because of weight and balance and I only club race and main is 8 minutes. Could I get 15 minutes on a 6500 so I can run the nitro guys Or how long can I run a 7200 ? What are u guys mostly running?

2050kv 17t
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Old 08-06-2015, 04:19 PM   #993
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Google search found same exact question. Guess it's been asked before. Lol.
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Old 08-06-2015, 05:47 PM   #994
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I'm running both a&b pills down if I moved the a block to the middle would that give more kick up?
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Old 08-06-2015, 06:57 PM   #995
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I'm running both a&b pills down if I moved the a block to the middle would that give more kick up?
Yes.
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Old 08-06-2015, 08:55 PM   #996
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Originally Posted by nitro2be View Post
Help me decide. Would you buy 4 5000 mah or 3 6500. It's a toss for me because of weight and balance and I only club race and main is 8 minutes. Could I get 15 minutes on a 6500 so I can run the nitro guys Or how long can I run a 7200 ? What are u guys mostly running?

2050kv 17t
We run both, 2s packs are easier to replace if you have a cell go bad. 4s pack are more expensive to replace..I prefer 4s packs,easier charging.. But I think I might go all 2s packs..more affordable
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Old 08-07-2015, 05:16 AM   #997
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Originally Posted by nitro2be View Post
Help me decide. Would you buy 4 5000 mah or 3 6500. It's a toss for me because of weight and balance and I only club race and main is 8 minutes. Could I get 15 minutes on a 6500 so I can run the nitro guys Or how long can I run a 7200 ? What are u guys mostly running?

2050kv 17t
Pretty sure the 4s 5000 wont get you 15 minutes, just not sure how the 3s would pan out though. But for 8 minutes, you'd be good either way for sure.

Would 2050kv be enough for 3s though?

This past weekend I ran a Revtech 6950 4s with a 2000kv motor. 13t pinion. Track was about 100 feet by 80 feet or so. Ran an 8 minute main with an extra lap before/after, motor came off at about 140 degrees at the can. Used my cell checker and it said I still had about 63% left in the pack. After each 5 minute qual I only put on average 1700mah back in.

The comment about two 2s packs is not a bad idea at all. I thought about going that way as well. If you run any 1/10 the packs can interchange, and you can run one pack forward, one back for an extra tuning option.
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Old 08-07-2015, 09:43 PM   #998
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Pretty sure the 4s 5000 wont get you 15 minutes, just not sure how the 3s would pan out though. But for 8 minutes, you'd be good either way for sure.

Would 2050kv be enough for 3s though?

This past weekend I ran a Revtech 6950 4s with a 2000kv motor. 13t pinion. Track was about 100 feet by 80 feet or so. Ran an 8 minute main with an extra lap before/after, motor came off at about 140 degrees at the can. Used my cell checker and it said I still had about 63% left in the pack. After each 5 minute qual I only put on average 1700mah back in.

The comment about two 2s packs is not a bad idea at all. I thought about going that way as well. If you run any 1/10 the packs can interchange, and you can run one pack forward, one back for an extra tuning option.
2050 on 3s will not be fast,unless u looking for run times ..you would need a 2500+ for a 3s to run fast..the 4s setup you have is perfect, a 6900 bat can get you 10-12 mins.. My son is on gas on the ebuggy 10 min main with your setup and he will put back 5000mah in the pack...
Tessman runs 2 4600mah shortie packs and he can make 10mins 1900kv??? Just don't see gets the run time and goes fast??? I would love to try shorties
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Old 08-10-2015, 05:02 PM   #999
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I can totally see making 10 min on the 4600mah and a 1900kv. Depends on gearing and being smooth. Like I said, a 2000kv, 6950mah after my main still had 63% left. He's probably not being as conservative on running the batteries too low as a regular racer trying to make the pack last a few seasons too.

Definitely lugging around alot less weight than a 22oz 6950.

Two shorties sounds like a really good idea.
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Old 08-11-2015, 06:49 AM   #1000
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Going down on your cells creates more strain on your electronics.. fyi

Higher cell batteries are lighter and more efficient.

A 6S 2600-3000mah battery is a good starting point. 5S is good as well for small tracks or loose tracks.
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Old 08-13-2015, 11:03 AM   #1001
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Going down on your cells creates more strain on your electronics.. fyi

Higher cell batteries are lighter and more efficient.

A 6S 2600-3000mah battery is a good starting point. 5S is good as well for small tracks or loose tracks.
Yea but if you race large events 4s is the max.besides that, I'm not sure if anyone makes hard case 5s/6s packs? Do they?..

Last night at the track,I was talking to Richard saxton from associated,he was running the new rcb3 ebuggy,I noticed that he was running a associated 4000mah pack..he said he runs them all the time,indoor and outdoor..so does the designer Cody numedahl.. At a race here in SoCal Cody and Richard both put back 3200mah after a 10 min main.. He said of course smoothness counts but he said the esc plays a huge role in battery usage...I found that very interesting. i think he was running a new 1/8 setup from associated that he said will be out soon

Btw my son beat both of thos guys in the triple Amain from 11th on the grid. A1 3rd a2 1st a3 1st..he started 11th because he didn't qualify on day 1, so he started from the back, dash for cash race in here in SoCal... Sorry, I had to throw that in there
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Old 08-13-2015, 05:08 PM   #1002
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Strange anomaly. Second weekend out with the car and twice after qualifying heats I noticed the front end of the car had lost substantial ride height, to the point the front arms were below level. I had to crank in maybe 4 turns on the adjusters. Question is, are the original equipment springs prone to sagging, if so suggestions on what springs I should obtain. Second question is the car seems to bottom out way too easily from the jumps on my track. Should I go to heavier oil, heavier springs or both. The car also feels very lazy ( I'm a carpet 1/12th scale driver) and I would like it to be more reactive, I have to wait for the car to rotate. Any suggestions will help me better understand the car.
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Old 08-13-2015, 05:26 PM   #1003
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Strange anomaly. Second weekend out with the car and twice after qualifying heats I noticed the front end of the car had lost substantial ride height, to the point the front arms were below level. I had to crank in maybe 4 turns on the adjusters. Question is, are the original equipment springs prone to sagging, if so suggestions on what springs I should obtain. Second question is the car seems to bottom out way too easily from the jumps on my track. Should I go to heavier oil, heavier springs or both. The car also feels very lazy ( I'm a carpet 1/12th scale driver) and I would like it to be more reactive, I have to wait for the car to rotate. Any suggestions will help me better understand the car.
It's because your new springs are now broken in,my son runs the stock 8h pistons,but runs stiffer springs..I believe 10.0 rears and I forgot what fronts,the fronts are2 heavier than what the stock fronts are and we also run the shock bladders emulsion,shock bladders flipped in the shock cap,and it's plush.. Losi 45 front and 37 rear
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Old 08-13-2015, 07:45 PM   #1004
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Originally Posted by spurcheck View Post
Strange anomaly. Second weekend out with the car and twice after qualifying heats I noticed the front end of the car had lost substantial ride height, to the point the front arms were below level. I had to crank in maybe 4 turns on the adjusters. Question is, are the original equipment springs prone to sagging, if so suggestions on what springs I should obtain. Second question is the car seems to bottom out way too easily from the jumps on my track. Should I go to heavier oil, heavier springs or both. The car also feels very lazy ( I'm a carpet 1/12th scale driver) and I would like it to be more reactive, I have to wait for the car to rotate. Any suggestions will help me better understand the car.
I had the same problem on my car even running heavier than stock springs (kyosho grey). Found out that I didn't have enough play in the pillow ball adjusting nuts. They were free on the bench, but as soon as a little dirt got in there it bound them up and my ride height would be too low. Something to check.
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Old 08-13-2015, 08:20 PM   #1005
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Does anyone know if the savox "tall" servos will fit in the eco?

I've read that they're 8mm taller than standard servos

Thanks
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