Jason Baliban

I am starting to get some gear slipping in the front ring/pinion on hard braking. After inspecting the ring i see some minor rounding. To address this, I shimmed the ring side, hopefully moving the ring closer to the pinion, but havent had a chance to test it yet. Assuming i am still having a problem, the next step would be to ship the pinion? If so, do you guys know what shim/part# to use for the pinion shim?

Thanks!

jB

hairymuffin

iTrader: (105)

When the gears(car) is brand new I don't, after about a couple hours on the car, I might ad one shim depending on the mesh...after a year of constant driving, I will ad another shim..my sons nitro buggy has 2 years on his drive gears... Keep in mind that I also replace the bearings so the diff sits in the housing solid..

hairymuffin

iTrader: (105)

If your gears are slipping, there is no other option but to replace the gears..shimming is only a temporary fix..I'm only assuming that your gears are getting a flat spot and are worn? To answer your question,yes shim your ring side,I would put 2 shims if it's really worn, until you can replace the gears.. I believe most other cars use the same size shims..

Mauve

iTrader: (3)

What I have done with Mugen diff gears and never had a problem is as follows.
On initial build, I will set the gear mesh with shims if required. I will then run a solid one day race meet, then recheck the mesh at the end of the day. I have found they tend to bed a little over the first solid race day, it could be matching in of the gears, or heat on the diff case, if could be a variety of different things that cause the tolerance to open a little, once the first race meet is done and reshimming is done, I rarely have to reshim again though I check every time I rebuild the diffs or pull the front or rear end off. It takes a split second to check.

With my MBX7R Eco, the build mesh felt a touch loose on the front gear and quite loose on the rear, I tried the initial front build with a shim but that made it too tight so removed it, the rear needed that 1 shim on the crown gear side. I'll run 3 x 7 min qualifiers and 2 x 10 min finals at the next race meet and once I get home, recheck the gear mesh then.

Jason Baliban

Say it aint so!

jB

nitro2be

iTrader: (1)

Shim and it should be fine if you caught it early enough.

hollywood3705

iTrader: (8)

I know it's a silly question but I'm curious if I could get the proline nitro or bitty designs nitro body to fit. Anybody happen to know?

nitro2be

iTrader: (1)

Yes nitro bodies fit just don't cut the extra holes. I use this one but green

http://www.amain.com/rc-cars/bittydesign-force-serpent-cobra-s811-1-8-pre-painted-buggy-body-grunge-pink-bdyfrc-sr011grup/p265645

hollywood3705

iTrader: (8)

Thank you sir. Anybody have any thoughts on overdrive under drive? Looking at the option parts and just curious about opinions

nitro2be

iTrader: (1)

Adam drake has nice video explaining how it works. I've look at a lot of set up sheets seems most run the under drive gearing. I have it in mine.

hairymuffin

iTrader: (105)

This is a pl phantom I just used for my sons car..not bad but it is touching the batteries..5000mah smc..the pl bull dog for the x7 fits perfect if you can find it

matterooth

The fit is fine, and with lots of clearence for my 4s pack. Durability, donīt know yet.

hairymuffin

iTrader: (105)

Congrats on your 1st post ..... Since you joined in January is that correct? Hope you not offended..

worm304

iTrader: (1)

Exactly what car is that phantom body for? I have it for my eb48.2 and love it..

Also, I'm digging this...

http://www.amain.com/rc-cars/bittydesign-fighter-serpent-cobra-s811-1-8-pre-painted-buggy-body-grunge-orange-bdyfgt-sr011gruo/p265684

If the "force" body for the serpent fits then I am wondering if the "fighter" does as well?

worm304

iTrader: (1)

I got it.. Phantom for the nitro..how is it that hard to make e bodies for us if they have nitro versions? Ridiculous