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Old 04-01-2015, 11:36 AM   #496
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Oh and I ordered my 7R eco this morning. I can't wait! Love assembling Mugen kits.
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Old 04-01-2015, 12:33 PM   #497
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I do the drill method and I also put black grease on the threads
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Old 04-01-2015, 01:03 PM   #498
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This isn't an "issue" it's normal for any 1/8 scale buggy. It's easy to take a minute to remove the rear wing if you need to. Or spend $5 and get a turnbuckle wrench that doesn't bend or hurt your finger. Not trying to be an ass, but the stuff some people will complain about is amazing. I would get the Mugen. The new Durango looks like a hopped up rtr to me.
Yeah the pic finally loaded for me, I see what they are talking about now. The way one guy was talking I thought it was some design flaw where you had to use a tiny Allen wrench to turn a large hard to turn part and risked stripping it out. This on the other hand definitely seems like a non issue. I would rather it be right now than loose from the get go.
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Old 04-01-2015, 01:04 PM   #499
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I do the drill method and I also put black grease on the threads
I've heard of using Chapstick or beeswax too. What about a silicone spray?
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Old 04-01-2015, 04:33 PM   #500
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I've heard of using Chapstick or beeswax too. What about a silicone spray?
Chapstick works well with a drill. maybe a litttle to well. they free up nice

Has anyone ran the R with 16mm CSI v-port pistons?. I have a good amount of 16mm pistons i wanted to try, but i dont really want to take the shocks apart 20 times. Any thoughts or trial runs with different pistons and fluid weights?
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Old 04-01-2015, 07:16 PM   #501
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With ANY turnbuckles you need to run them all the way in & back out a few times during initial assembly. If you do this you will NEVER have the type of issue the op had.

To make the initial cutting of the threads easier you can use some form of lubricant (the thicker the better). I use chapstick because it is in my box & the only other thing it gets used for is on dif gaskets. My wife bought me the plain kind last time, but I prefer the cherry flavor as it give my buggy a fresh smell

http://www.chapstick.com/products/cl...assic-original

To adjust my turnbuckles, I use a 90* pick (straight or 45* would work also) from craftsman that I also use to clean the dirt out of the screws on the bottom of the chassis.

http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_101...id=00941634000
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Old 04-01-2015, 08:19 PM   #502
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Has anyone measured the battery tray? I need to order up some 4S batteries and want to make sure they fit. TIA
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Old 04-01-2015, 09:39 PM   #503
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Soon as I get some money, I'm getting an new body with these skin designs. Something with flames...http://www.rcidcustom.com/mm5/#
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Old 04-02-2015, 01:24 AM   #504
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Has anyone measured the battery tray? I need to order up some 4S batteries and want to make sure they fit. TIA
The turnbuckle issue is definitely not a showstopper, aboveall because you tweak them on a rare basis and just for few seconds.

I was just moaning about a small particular that could have been fixed simply shaping the turnbuckle surface in a squared way, just like the front turnbuckels....

Told that, I run 6s and they fit, there is only a small plastic angle I had to dremel, just a matter of 2-3 minutes, considering also the flattening of the dremeled surface.
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Old 04-02-2015, 05:18 AM   #505
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Originally Posted by Dont Hack Me View Post
Chapstick works well with a drill. maybe a litttle to well. they free up nice

Has anyone ran the R with 16mm CSI v-port pistons?. I have a good amount of 16mm pistons i wanted to try, but i dont really want to take the shocks apart 20 times. Any thoughts or trial runs with different pistons and fluid weights?
yes I bought the 16 Mm v-port pistons aluminum I had to run at 80 in the front and 60 in the rear AE shock oil 😕
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Old 04-02-2015, 07:08 PM   #506
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I have a couple of bodies for the RC8.2e, has anybody ever tried to fit one on the mbx7r?
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Old 04-03-2015, 05:15 AM   #507
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I have a couple of bodies for the RC8.2e, has anybody ever tried to fit one on the mbx7r?
Yes. For me. It was a no go.

At the moment I don't recall the model body I attempted to modify and use before I got around to painting the stock body she'll. However, using my dremmel tool, I continued to mill out the front around the upper arms and added a new body mount hole. I later found out the battery position was too high for a 4S and the position of the body.

I suspect the body mount posts on the MBX7R are lower than the RC8.2e. I recommend testing with an older/used RC8.2 body before attempting it with a new one.
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Old 04-03-2015, 05:48 AM   #508
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Yes. For me. It was a no go.

At the moment I don't recall the model body I attempted to modify and use before I got around to painting the stock body she'll. However, using my dremmel tool, I continued to mill out the front around the upper arms and added a new body mount hole. I later found out the battery position was too high for a 4S and the position of the body.

I suspect the body mount posts on the MBX7R are lower than the RC8.2e. I recommend testing with an older/used RC8.2 body before attempting it with a new one.
Well I have two new in the package bodies, one is a jconcepts the other a proline I believe. Maybe I'll just try to sell them. Figured by the time I sell it with fees and shipping it probably isn't worth it, maybe I'd get enough to buy one body.
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Old 04-04-2015, 07:25 AM   #509
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Does the proline phantom body for the nitro fit the eco?
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Old 04-05-2015, 04:25 AM   #510
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Does the proline phantom body for the nitro fit the eco?
Nope, I tried. Left side sticks up a lot.
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