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Old 01-20-2015, 07:30 PM   #211
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Originally Posted by Ginther View Post
LMAO!!

That's exactly how I feel. Call it OCD or whatever, but the lean bothers me.

I like the lines on the FTW Night Fox body. Just wonder if it'll clear a 5000mah 4S battery.... unlike the kit body.
I have the Night Fox body and it hits the same as kit body, but I've done the same as Criss and put washers under front body post. Problem solved.
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Old 01-20-2015, 08:05 PM   #212
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Originally Posted by aloksatoor View Post
I did all the tricks over on the nitro thread to free up the drivetrain, it still feels notchy to me. I removed the boots, shimmed the diffs away and rechecked the hinge pin holder screws. Without unis installed in the diff cups, the drivetrains feeling a lot free.

Could it be the hub bearings are being pinched? Any other suggestions?
I'm a first time Mugen builder, and I found that after I put in the setscrew on the rear hub bearing, it had a notchy feeling. I thought I "lightly" tightened the setscrew, but I guess not enough. I backed it out, and BARELY touched it, and the notchy feeling went away. Maybe you tightened it too much and cannot reverse the dented race. Perhaps try replacing the bearings and see if that helps.
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Old 01-20-2015, 10:34 PM   #213
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ginther View Post
LMAO!!

That's exactly how I feel. Call it OCD or whatever, but the lean bothers me.

I like the lines on the FTW Night Fox body. Just wonder if it'll clear a 5000mah 4S battery.... unlike the kit body.
Hideeho
I run the night fox, & yes it sits on the battery. I tried shimming the front body post, but found that raises the roof line to high causing it to hit 1st in a rollover. I solved the problem by going with a pro match lipo. It's 3mm shorter than most when on its side. That gives enough clearance for the body to sit even. I'll still run smc's in everything else, but until they come out with a slightly smaller one, it will be a promatch in the buggy for me.
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Old 01-21-2015, 05:26 AM   #214
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I use the stock body. With the thunder power 5300mah 4s I have to lay it on its side and it was perfect. I got tired of that so I have a thunder power 4300mah 4s and it fits perfectly in the upright position and wires under the straps. I only use about 2500mah in a 10 min race so the 4300mah is perfect and less weight the the 5300mah
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Old 01-21-2015, 07:20 AM   #215
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Almost done building the buggy everything went smoothly all the parts fit perfect very high quality kit. Only thing left are the shocks and electronics.
Any tips on building the shocks....the manual looks confusing. Let me know if this is correct. For example to get 50% rebound tighten the shock cap half way then push the shaft up half way for the oil to leak out, then fully tighten the cap?
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Old 01-21-2015, 07:38 AM   #216
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With my shocks leave the cap off. Leave a little oil out and push the shaft to where I want to set rebound and then top off the oil and put the cap on.
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Old 01-21-2015, 07:45 AM   #217
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What do you mean by leave a little oil out? Don't fill it to the rim?
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Old 01-21-2015, 09:48 AM   #218
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Default help: rear shock build

I too am about to build up a set of the rear shocks and am pretty much at a loss re: how to top up and bleed the shocks.

i've got an online manual for the Mugen MBX7 Eco - that i can't link to here yet cause i'm still new to RCTECH - but it's not really detailed for a new-be...


any instructional help is much appreciated!

and fyi: i'm building these to put on my 9yr old boy's Vaterra Glamis Uno - so apologies all around - more of a basher than a racer /: (:
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Old 01-21-2015, 10:55 AM   #219
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Ok I will make a video of me building my shocks and I will post it. Stay tuned it will take me a little bit to make the video. I will post it later today.
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Old 01-21-2015, 01:45 PM   #220
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ginther View Post
LMAO!!

That's exactly how I feel. Call it OCD or whatever, but the lean bothers me.

I like the lines on the FTW Night Fox body. Just wonder if it'll clear a 5000mah 4S battery.... unlike the kit body.
Nightfox body looks good, but I needed the washers for it too.
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Old 01-21-2015, 02:24 PM   #221
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Quote:
Originally Posted by icecyc1 View Post
I'm a first time Mugen builder, and I found that after I put in the setscrew on the rear hub bearing, it had a notchy feeling. I thought I "lightly" tightened the setscrew, but I guess not enough. I backed it out, and BARELY touched it, and the notchy feeling went away. Maybe you tightened it too much and cannot reverse the dented race. Perhaps try replacing the bearings and see if that helps.
I will try that. Have a few new bearings from the mp9s which should work as well if the mugens are destroyed by my klutzy assembly. Did not think of that set screw .
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Old 01-21-2015, 02:39 PM   #222
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subscribed
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Old 01-21-2015, 05:07 PM   #223
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the proline body for the x6 eco fits best...I sold my 6 and kept the body for my x7r. I use smc 6500's and the body is not leaning..the pl x7 bulldog also fits good
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Old 01-21-2015, 07:04 PM   #224
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Just ordered my MBX7r Eco and it should be here next week. I look forward to the build.
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Old 01-21-2015, 07:10 PM   #225
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Very nice build...


Quote:
Originally Posted by SmittyPSU View Post
I finished mine two weeks ago. I'm coming from an MBX6 that was a little worn out. I've only raced it once so far on a tight indoor track. I was on the kit setup and I was really happy with it. I didn't make any changes during the day since I won't be running on that track much. I just finished painting the body today. I used my X6 body for the race.
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