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Old 11-15-2015, 01:43 PM   #1306
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Since your just bashing do you know you can boil your plastics in hot water for 20 minutes and let cool all way down to room temp and it would make plastic flexible and hard to crack.problem solved for front arms. You can even repeat and they will never break. One more thing, you may want to put longer front chassis brace on since your bashing for less chassis flex will = less things breaking.

Nice jump and that front plate kinda odd with holder on top, I'm pretty sure it's upside down. Look at your manual!
thanks
i boiled my hobao arms back then with the same recipe ! and i broke them anyway.

the mugen's arms will go trough my special steel recipe to hold on a bit better. I'm satisfied with the results on my hobao's arms.
If the mugen's arms break anyway, I may even fit the hobao's hyperstar arms on the mugen !! I know, it sounds disgusting !



About chassis flex : I think more flex for bashing is better. The chassis will flex and help to absorb hard hits

I mounted the top plate upside down on purpose as I described it. because I notice the ackermann steering plate rubbed on it ! ( you can still see the scratches )
now the steering has more room.

Anyway, I will continue to break and modify parts to make the mugen a bit stronger for my needs
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Old 11-15-2015, 02:26 PM   #1307
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thanks
i boiled my hobao arms back then with the same recipe ! and i broke them anyway.

the mugen's arms will go trough my special steel recipe to hold on a bit better. I'm satisfied with the results on my hobao's arms.
If the mugen's arms break anyway, I may even fit the hobao's hyperstar arms on the mugen !! I know, it sounds disgusting !



About chassis flex : I think more flex for bashing is better. The chassis will flex and help to absorb hard hits

I mounted the top plate upside down on purpose as I described it. because I notice the ackermann steering plate rubbed on it ! ( you can still see the scratches )
now the steering has more room.

Anyway, I will continue to break and modify parts to make the mugen a bit stronger for my needs
for some reason I like this crazy guy. Taking a $500 race car and using it as he pleases. RAT ROD.
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Old 11-15-2015, 04:53 PM   #1308
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yes I know, i'm not nice with this car !

I would have continued with the hobao hyper 9e (now 350USD ) but the transmission uses 12 pieces of the 12x8x4mm ball bearings. thoses are fragile and don't last long on my dusty track...

so i went to the mbx7r that has great 16x8x5mm bearing everywhere !
I studied the EB48 and if I bashed one of those nobody would have said "poor machine". But the EB48 seems weaker to me. In my humble opinion !!

but indeed, it's massacre !!
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Old 11-15-2015, 05:26 PM   #1309
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% right now on brakes
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my indoor set up was almost exactly like yours. Only thing I see is your toe in insert for rear. I ran middle down, and my car was dialed at track. Maybe to much toe In?. Also on front camber I had same thing as you I run 2 washers on top and one side screwed in tight other side just tight enough where touch washers. Looks great works great. Your set up looks good I'm thinking sway bars to tight. Need to move free side to side under full suspension compression. Reduce brakes, I only ran 45% because car was squirrel under hard brakes.
Thanks. I'm running 30% right now on brakes. Sway bars do seem a little tight so I will loosen a little. How about my oils? I'm running AE 45 in front and AE 40 in rear.
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Old 11-15-2015, 07:57 PM   #1310
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% right now on brakes

Thanks. I'm running 30% right now on brakes. Sway bars do seem a little tight so I will loosen a little. How about my oils? I'm running AE 45 in front and AE 40 in rear.
I ran 37.5 32.5 losi and seemed to soft. I went up to 42.5 and 37.5. We're not much different to make your car slide out. I really want to say tires, but you been in the hobby and run enough cars to know what's best at your track. I run a ghost slick. Tread on sides and slick in center. I'd reduce toe in, that much toe in is for forward traction if needed. Just my opinion. One more thing, I bet your running bottom hole on rear camber link on tower. My experience that causes car to rotate faster, hence possible slide. I run mine in middle inside on tower. Lots of mugen set up sheets are lower hole, i can't drive it that way.

My buddy drove mine almost into the wall yelling "you don't have brakes. ". Lol I forgot to tell him I run light brakes.
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Old 11-15-2015, 10:26 PM   #1311
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Hey guys I was having a chat with a mate off mine and his got a 7r nitro we was thinking how hard would it be too convert it to a 7r eco what would u need to do so
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Old 11-15-2015, 11:16 PM   #1312
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Hey guys I was having a chat with a mate off mine and his got a 7r nitro we was thinking how hard would it be too convert it to a 7r eco what would u need to do so
I believe Mugen uses a dedicated chassis for the Eco so you would definitely need that and the motor mount for electric. Front and rear suspension, etc. should be identical
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Old 11-16-2015, 12:55 AM   #1313
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and crap again

my second front lower arm broke. check out how it broke !





As much as I like the mugen mbx7r eco, I'm now quite sure that it's not more durable than a hobao hyper 9e or hyperstar e !
some how the mugen's plastic seems to be too hard and breaks before even streching a bit. I guess they wanted a rigid machine...

this is how I repaired the first arm that broke. But I guess it will break somewhere else anyway !!




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Old 11-16-2015, 10:30 AM   #1314
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Hey guys I was having a chat with a mate off mine and his got a 7r nitro we was thinking how hard would it be too convert it to a 7r eco what would u need to do so
I use a nitro chassis, I just drilled holes for battery tray. The whole center diff case, spur and motor mounts all need to be changed. I just used same servo tray and cut off back part. I don't use a receiver box.
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Old 11-16-2015, 04:47 PM   #1315
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and crap again

my second front lower arm broke. check out how it broke !
I gotta say, I'm surprised you keep driving the same way breaking the same parts. Video your hits/landings that break these parts. It will be easy to see why it broke watching slowmo playback. I think the chassis is digging in and that includes the a arm where it broke.

Ever consider some rubber bump stops on the shock shafts that stop the shock a little before chassis bottoms out so hard? I used them on a 1/10 scale buggy to prevent the same thing.. Also used them on ebuggy to prevent dog bone contact which bent the bones on DEX 408.

I think it helps to use an o-ring or fuel tubing and MOST BASHER RIGS have them. See the blue one on this traxxas shock. This might be the answer you have been looking for. Let me know if you try it and if it works.

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Old 11-16-2015, 05:01 PM   #1316
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I gotta say, I'm surprised you keep driving the same way breaking the same parts. Video your hits/landings that break these parts. It will be easy to see why it broke watching slowmo playback. I think the chassis is digging in and that includes the a arm where it broke.

Ever consider some rubber bump stops on the shock shafts that stop the shock a little before chassis bottoms out so hard? I used them on a 1/10 scale buggy to prevent the same thing.. Also used them on ebuggy to prevent dog bone contact which bent the bones on DEX 408.

I think it helps to use an o-ring or fuel tubing and MOST BASHER RIGS have them. See the blue one on this traxxas shock. This might be the answer you have been looking for. Let me know if you try it and if it works.
thanks for the rubber bump stop tip. I used it on my old slash to prevent the chassis rubbing too hard the ground but it's a good idea to help the end of the suspension travel.
but I never tried on my 1/8
I also bend my dogbones and this trick could also help
I use rubber shockboots that will get in the way but i will try it anyway

I bash like a madman because I love this see those 1/8 buggies jump high and far. I use soft dirt in the landing spot but I sometimes miss this spot and hit the hard ground or the wooden side next to the track !
trying and missing front flips or 180 doesn't help the durability !!
I should concentrate more on the acceleration line right before the jump...
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Old 11-16-2015, 07:09 PM   #1317
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For the guy that is breaking arms...look into a T-bone racing front bumper. It is a little wider than the stock bumper and the plastics are fantastic. I am racing with mine....
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Old 11-16-2015, 07:46 PM   #1318
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For the guy that is breaking arms...look into a T-bone racing front bumper. It is a little wider than the stock bumper and the plastics are fantastic. I am racing with mine....
I put the DE Racing Front Bumper Skid, but it's true, the T bone would offer more protection
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Old 11-16-2015, 07:48 PM   #1319
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I second the t bone statement. I have their basher bumpers front and rear on all our vehicles. The way my 6yo and I drive they have to be the saving grace for many parts that would normally break.
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Old 11-19-2015, 11:39 PM   #1320
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What parts do I need to do a basic upgrades do I need going from a 7 eco to the 7r eco
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