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Old 08-26-2015, 03:11 PM   #1111
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Does it bottom out on hard landings? Especially the front? Are you running no rebound? We always build with no rebound..we are at 45/40wt with stock 8h pistons emulsion bladders,heavy springs compared to kit springs...is there any timing on the motor can? Is it a new motor with good bearings? Weird how the temps are not going down? We gonna be there tomorrow...
I'd have to flat land to bottom out and big air,so no...no rebound. I do notice others are running heavier oils. No timing, new motor with only 4 times to track. I did drop the 50k center to 7 ,reset the esc to factory, 14t pinion instead of 15t. I tried turning epa down to 85% and I did not like power loss. I'm just gonna put a 25x25 fan on in front of motor with the kyosho zeal tape and I should be good. Wheel spin was down to normal, traction was great for me.
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Old 08-26-2015, 03:23 PM   #1112
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Next question, you said on rear camber link on the hub you run center with more camber than nitro and nitro all wayout to third hole. I'm running outer hole now, and understand benefits of using center hole on hub,but nobody's running center hole on setups sheets. My car feels dialed now but always looking for little more. Can you help me understand why eco different from nitro for rear hub link? Or is it just simply what your son liked? Do you loose corning stability? Took long time to get the rear this locked. I run underdrive, aluminum hubs center on height, and 30g weight on rear hubs.
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Old 08-26-2015, 11:19 PM   #1113
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Next question, you said on rear camber link on the hub you run center with more camber than nitro and nitro all wayout to third hole. I'm running outer hole now, and understand benefits of using center hole on hub,but nobody's running center hole on setups sheets. My car feels dialed now but always looking for little more. Can you help me understand why eco different from nitro for rear hub link? Or is it just simply what your son liked? Do you loose corning stability? Took long time to get the rear this locked. I run underdrive, aluminum hubs center on height, and 30g weight on rear hubs.
Yea,he just didn't like it in the outer hole,we tried to run the Eco with our nitro setup and he didn't like it,we don't have weight in none of our cars..kinda weird since everyone swears by it..we just never felt like the cars were lacking anywhere,and needed to ad weight...im sure the difference in setup with he Eco over the nitro is weight and balance...we haven't put the under drive in the Eco yet,he said it's fine how it is..lol.....I never change his setup on his cars no matter where we go,because it works for us..it also makes him feel comfy with his car..oils and that's it..I think it is just mugen cars,they work everywhere.. Drake changes his setups a lot,from track to track... I've always made my son run on bald tires, my philosophy has always been,"just drive it dammit"..
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Old 08-27-2015, 06:33 AM   #1114
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Yea,he just didn't like it in the outer hole,we tried to run the Eco with our nitro setup and he didn't like it,we don't have weight in none of our cars..kinda weird since everyone swears by it..we just never felt like the cars were lacking anywhere,and needed to ad weight...im sure the difference in setup with he Eco over the nitro is weight and balance...we haven't put the under drive in the Eco yet,he said it's fine how it is..lol.....I never change his setup on his cars no matter where we go,because it works for us..it also makes him feel comfy with his car..oils and that's it..I think it is just mugen cars,they work everywhere.. Drake changes his setups a lot,from track to track... I've always made my son run on bald tires, my philosophy has always been,"just drive it dammit"..
Would you be able to post your son's ECO setup? I'm running Drake's Standard setup, but went with the 7-7-4 oil as you suggested it makes the car easier to drive.

Thanks in advance
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Old 08-27-2015, 08:29 AM   #1115
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Getting ready to order some some stuff. What spares should I have on hand? Just front arms I'm assuming??

Also any upgrades that are worth while??

Thanks in advance!
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Old 08-27-2015, 08:50 AM   #1116
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Getting ready to order some some stuff. What spares should I have on hand? Just front arms I'm assuming??

Also any upgrades that are worth while??

Thanks in advance!
I'm thinking and only thing I've ever broken was front arm and one diff case. Hard crash, titanium screws bent that hold tower on and cracked case. I run steel screws only now and long with a nut. I've had my car almost 2 years and have beaten her up bad. Aluminum servo saver a must on all 8th cars for me. Upgrades that are important, only thing I can think of is underdrive. Like hairy muff said he son likes it stock gear.
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Old 08-27-2015, 09:40 AM   #1117
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I'm thinking and only thing I've ever broken was front arm and one diff case. Hard crash, titanium screws bent that hold tower on and cracked case. I run steel screws only now and long with a nut. I've had my car almost 2 years and have beaten her up bad. Aluminum servo saver a must on all 8th cars for me. Upgrades that are important, only thing I can think of is underdrive. Like hairy muff said he son likes it stock gear.
But if you need that extra traction for your home track, I would get that under drive gear set...I guess we are fortunate to run on track with descent traction... His setup is standard kit setup...only difference is kyosho shock bladders flipped upside down(emulsion), and the rear toe insert is set for max toe.. The dot is in the bottom left corner... Forgot springs... 8.75 front and 9.5 rear black springs
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Old 08-27-2015, 09:44 AM   #1118
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Hubs spaced in the middle..sorry haven't cleaned it
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Old 08-27-2015, 10:05 AM   #1119
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Getting ready to order some some stuff. What spares should I have on hand? Just front arms I'm assuming??

Also any upgrades that are worth while??

Thanks in advance!
Upper front arms also,although never broke one since the change from the x6, I would eventually get every plastic part you can get just to keep on hand.. But a little over time..sorry but mugen plastic is the best!! It only wears out..on your 1st order I would get front arms and steering hubs,then the pill inserts.. Pill inserts can ruin your day if you lose one in a crash.

.never broke the upper rear links
Never broke steering bellcranks
Never broken a rear hub
These are things dating back since the x6 and x5
Honestly it's hard to say what you won't break, anything can happen.. We have every part of course but for the average guy, it can be expensive... Like the universals, I don't like them because they are not rebuildable like x7's.. The rears can break if you run too much droop or you let your outdrives get really worn, and the front and rears are not the same size like the old x7.. Sorry but it sucks for the average racer to have to buy more spares..never broken a front cvs/universal, but be careful with the rears
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Old 08-27-2015, 10:14 AM   #1120
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Default Look for some help on setup

Have been struggling with suitable setup of my car. It seems I keep on changing things but end up going into circles...I attach my setup sheet.

My driving style is not aggressive.

Track is a medium size indoor clay track (About 120ft X 80ft). Layout very technical with multiple chicanes, jumps not big but most of them with downside more steep and deep than the upside, and almost always after the jump would be a bend of at least 90 degrees.

What I have been having problems with are the jumps. Earlier with the stock E0577 silver rear springs the suspension was very unstable, the rear would be hopping everywhere on the bumps. Car would be bottoming out easily, and because a bend comes after landing the car would flip over very easily if I made the steer right after landing. Turn into the chicane is good, but pushy mid to exit. For one jump the front would almost always bottom out and rebound throwing the front wheel to the air.

Changed to the current softer rear spring the rear became mroe stable through the bumps. Still I felt the suspension setup unstable, car would still overturn but not as bad, and the car would bottom out. With the softer rear springs the car pushed more mid to exit on chicanes. I then moved the lower rear shock mounting position into the inner hole and that improved mid to exit turn and bottom out also improved just a bit.

What I would like to do is to cure the bottom out problem, then more steering mid to exit. Any tips appreciated.
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Old 08-27-2015, 10:38 AM   #1121
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Getting ready to order some some stuff. What spares should I have on hand? Just front arms I'm assuming??

Also any upgrades that are worth while??

Thanks in advance!
When you order parts get them from dollar hobbyz. Do a search for mugen and sort by lowest price first. There are multiples of most parts but some are cheaper than others so it helps to sort. Trust me you will save a lot of money. They usually ship same day too. The only part I've seen there that isn't a great deal is front arms. Some stuff is 1/4 to 1/3 what you will pay ordering online fyi.
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Old 08-27-2015, 11:06 AM   #1122
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Originally Posted by hairymuffin View Post
But if you need that extra traction for your home track, I would get that under drive gear set...I guess we are fortunate to run on track with descent traction... His setup is standard kit setup...only difference is kyosho shock bladders flipped upside down(emulsion), and the rear toe insert is set for max toe.. The dot is in the bottom left corner... Forgot springs... 8.75 front and 9.5 rear black springs
Awesome, thank you for the info
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Old 08-27-2015, 04:39 PM   #1123
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Originally Posted by blackshark3 View Post
Have been struggling with suitable setup of my car. It seems I keep on changing things but end up going into circles...I attach my setup sheet.

My driving style is not aggressive.

Track is a medium size indoor clay track (About 120ft X 80ft). Layout very technical with multiple chicanes, jumps not big but most of them with downside more steep and deep than the upside, and almost always after the jump would be a bend of at least 90 degrees.

What I have been having problems with are the jumps. Earlier with the stock E0577 silver rear springs the suspension was very unstable, the rear would be hopping everywhere on the bumps. Car would be bottoming out easily, and because a bend comes after landing the car would flip over very easily if I made the steer right after landing. Turn into the chicane is good, but pushy mid to exit. For one jump the front would almost always bottom out and rebound throwing the front wheel to the air.

Changed to the current softer rear spring the rear became mroe stable through the bumps. Still I felt the suspension setup unstable, car would still overturn but not as bad, and the car would bottom out. With the softer rear springs the car pushed more mid to exit on chicanes. I then moved the lower rear shock mounting position into the inner hole and that improved mid to exit turn and bottom out also improved just a bit.

What I would like to do is to cure the bottom out problem, then more steering mid to exit. Any tips appreciated.
For indoor track, try taking the sway bars off f/r...what oil and Pistons? Also try flipping your shock bladders around in the shock cap...no rebound.. Also you are on a indoor track, the rear is high..try between 26-28...is the fugitive the tire of choice at your indoor track? Try pl electrons for indoor... Taking off the sway bars will let the car corner better for tight indoor,also more traction
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Old 08-28-2015, 03:21 AM   #1124
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For indoor track, try taking the sway bars off f/r...what oil and Pistons? Also try flipping your shock bladders around in the shock cap...no rebound.. Also you are on a indoor track, the rear is high..try between 26-28...is the fugitive the tire of choice at your indoor track? Try pl electrons for indoor... Taking off the sway bars will let the car corner better for tight indoor,also more traction
Thanks for your replies.

I am running Trinity 60 shock oil in all shocks, standard pistons, with no rebound. I tried Fugitive, Lockdown and Blockade, all super soft X4, and it seems Fugitive is more planted.

Would try PL electron, lower the ride height and take off the sway bars.
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Old 08-28-2015, 08:17 AM   #1125
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Thanks for your replies.

I am running Trinity 60 shock oil in all shocks, standard pistons, with no rebound. I tried Fugitive, Lockdown and Blockade, all super soft X4, and it seems Fugitive is more planted.

Would try PL electron, lower the ride height and take off the sway bars.
Get rid of that 60w..way too heavy,for the stock Pistons put 45/40.. Get some real indoor tires..all those tires you described are strictly outdoor tires...you might get away with running the fugitive... Change that oil befor you remove the sway bars to see how you like that oil, and if you need more steering and overall traction,remove the sway bars..just undo the bars,you dont have to completely remove them..it will rotate around the corners better,and better rear traction..
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