R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road

Like Tree16Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 06-28-2015, 06:31 PM   #856
Tech Fanatic
 
easye's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 885
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Im new to the mugen. What part numbers are need to run a under driver rear diff. Thanks
__________________
b5m tekin r1
rc8b3 werks
rc8b3e hobbywing
leisure hours hobbies and raceway. Ez duz it customs.
Al Richards #1 fan Mr.Mellow #5 fan
easye is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-28-2015, 08:52 PM   #857
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: North East Ohio
Posts: 410
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by werner sline View Post
ok thanks, I think tekno just need some time to get to the perfect buggy. mugen had more time to make their mbx series evolve and up to date.

what about the suspension travel ? it seems to me that the eb48 has bigger shocks and more suspension travel, am I wrong ?
Well mbx7r rear are longer then teknos by a small amount, maybe a 1mm or less. It will also be dependent on the shock tower them selves, shock location on the arms. Taller towers compared arm droop. Over all suspension travel I don't know who has the most. Honestly that really doesn't mean anything. Just because you have the most doesn't mean its the best or easiest to drive. Another example is Tekno eb48.3 It has truggy shocks on it. the length of the front shock are unbelievably long, but they mount up all the way out at the wheels, so you would need longer/bigger (total fluid volume) to get the same amount of travel. just to make it on par with every other buggy on the market.
I never run max droop. Only time i would run max droop is if someone was very new to it. More suspension travel will help on landing but its not as reactive. Easier to drive if your new, better to learn on, more forgiving but not faster. Honestly it's all about geometry of the buggy
Dont Hack Me is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-28-2015, 10:16 PM   #858
Tech Master
 
werner sline's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,936
Default

thanks for the answer
werner sline is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-30-2015, 08:36 AM   #859
Tech Fanatic
 
cyba888's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Taipei
Posts: 988
Default

Need some help on front camber adjustment. I haven't ran the buggy for a few months and forgot how to adjust front camber. Last time I remember was to use washers to adjust camber but this time I am not sure why one side is way off. With same washers on both sides my front left camber reads 1.5 and front right reads 3.0
I must be doing something wrong this time because I ran into this same issue last time and fixed it but this time I cant figure it out...any help will be appreciated thank you.

__________________
2014 and 2015 BD7 Black Series, Yokomo RPX ESC- Yokomo 4.5T Motor
Yokomo B-MAX4 III Factory Team Kit, Muchmore ESC- LRP 6.5T Motor
Mugen MBX7R Eco- 2200 KV Motor
Futaba 4PX
cyba888 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-01-2015, 09:14 AM   #860
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 149
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

almost done. first soldering job!
Attached Thumbnails
Mugen MBX7R Eco thread!-mugen1.jpg   Mugen MBX7R Eco thread!-mugen2.jpg   Mugen MBX7R Eco thread!-mugen3.jpg   Mugen MBX7R Eco thread!-mugen4.jpg   Mugen MBX7R Eco thread!-mugen5.jpg  

worm304 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-01-2015, 02:47 PM   #861
Tech Master
 
werner sline's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,936
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by cyba888 View Post
Need some help on front camber adjustment. I haven't ran the buggy for a few months and forgot how to adjust front camber. Last time I remember was to use washers to adjust camber but this time I am not sure why one side is way off. With same washers on both sides my front left camber reads 1.5 and front right reads 3.0
I must be doing something wrong this time because I ran into this same issue last time and fixed it but this time I cant figure it out...any help will be appreciated thank you.

you mean when the suspension is fully compressed ? if you want less camber in this case, put the upper arms higher on the shocktowers.
right now you suspension moves like a triangle. for a even camber in any case, it should move like a parrallelogram
werner sline is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-01-2015, 02:50 PM   #862
Tech Master
 
werner sline's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,936
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by worm304 View Post
almost done. first soldering job!
good job ! cool body
what lipo will you use ?
werner sline is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-01-2015, 09:11 PM   #863
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 149
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by werner sline View Post
good job ! cool body
what lipo will you use ?
Thanks, man! I have a sky 5000 4s that has been solid for me for the past year. I also have an smc 6500 that is too big because I'm trying to keep weight down. In my tekno that battery lasts forever... I got like 40 minutes of practice time with it.. It was stop and go but still was amazed at how long I ran it.. I will probably pick up a SPC 5000.. From what I have researched they are on the lighter side for 5000 mah batteries... Price can't be beat either! Although I would like to see how much run time the 3600 SMC gets me.
worm304 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-01-2015, 10:59 PM   #864
Tech Master
 
werner sline's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,936
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by worm304 View Post
Thanks, man! I have a sky 5000 4s that has been solid for me for the past year. I also have an smc 6500 that is too big because I'm trying to keep weight down. In my tekno that battery lasts forever... I got like 40 minutes of practice time with it.. It was stop and go but still was amazed at how long I ran it.. I will probably pick up a SPC 5000.. From what I have researched they are on the lighter side for 5000 mah batteries... Price can't be beat either! Although I would like to see how much run time the 3600 SMC gets me.
by the way, with the same electronic, which one was lighter ? eb48 or mbx7 ?
werner sline is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2015, 08:51 AM   #865
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 149
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by werner sline View Post
by the way, with the same electronic, which one was lighter ? eb48 or mbx7 ?
Well, I have different electronics in both... The 1800 combo with a 150a esc is considerably heavier than the 120a and a tekin t8i... If I had to guess though the Mugen is probably a bit lighter as a roller. The side and mud guards are definitely thinner more flexible plastic. The shocks are smaller and lighter plus the chassis is tapered and thinner in spots where the tekno feels beefier. I have no real way of knowing but I would say the Mugen is lighter... It's funny but the tekno is totally American muscle and the Mugen is an import tuner, if I were to make an analogy...
worm304 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2015, 10:40 AM   #866
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 22
Default Upgrade OEM screws?

Hopefully I will finally get my MBX7R ECO built this weekend
Are the stock screws GTG or should I order a set of Tony's Screws for the build.

I am a big fan of Tony's products but don't want to replace the stock screws if not necessary.
Thanks
DNF2005 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2015, 01:02 PM   #867
Tech Master
 
werner sline's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,936
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by worm304 View Post
Well, I have different electronics in both... The 1800 combo with a 150a esc is considerably heavier than the 120a and a tekin t8i... If I had to guess though the Mugen is probably a bit lighter as a roller. The side and mud guards are definitely thinner more flexible plastic. The shocks are smaller and lighter plus the chassis is tapered and thinner in spots where the tekno feels beefier. I have no real way of knowing but I would say the Mugen is lighter... It's funny but the tekno is totally American muscle and the Mugen is an import tuner, if I were to make an analogy...
good analogy
but I feel the mbx7 might be heavier because of its "old shool " design : large chassis, 16x8 ball bearings everywhere
but indeed, the small shocks might make it lighter...
werner sline is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2015, 01:18 PM   #868
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 149
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by DNF2005 View Post
Hopefully I will finally get my MBX7R ECO built this weekend
Are the stock screws GTG or should I order a set of Tony's Screws for the build.

I am a big fan of Tony's products but don't want to replace the stock screws if not necessary.
Thanks
I stripped a couple screws but that's because I lack finesse at times. Make sure to hand tighten where needed. I've had rc screwz before but never Tony's. Now I'm reading Tony's is better. If you have the funds it can't hurt to start from scratch with aftermarket.
worm304 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2015, 05:39 PM   #869
Tech Regular
 
Mauve's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Mt Gambier, SA
Posts: 497
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Aftermarket screws aren't necessary with the Mugen from my prospective. The mugen stuff is up there with the best of them. I've used RCsrewz and Tony's before and found them to be no better than the Mugen stuff. For a little while I thought the Xray screws where a little deeper in the hex keying but with the benefit of hindsight and having ran a XB9'13 and a XB8'14, there is not a real difference. Take your time and care with the initial build and you'll have no issues in the future. I've owned Associated, Losi, Mugen, Xray, OCM and a few others, its for good reason I keep coming back to the Mugen, they offer the right plastics (the best compromise between flex and strength), Alloys are awesome, great build quality, wear really well over time (not to fast) and I rarely break anything. Build it as it comes out of the box and go practice where your going to race predominantly to work on getting the car dialled for you. Also, use medium strength (blue) loctite on anything that screws into metal.
__________________
Limestone Coast Remote Control Model Car Club (http://www.lcrcmcc.com)
Special thanks to Kincraig Elite RC for hooking me up with:
1/8 IC Offroad Mugen Seiki MBX7R, AKA Tires, Hobbywing, Spektrum Servos and Sanwa Radio gear
Mauve is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-2015, 10:36 AM   #870
Tech Adept
 
TOO-TALL's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Bushwood country club
Posts: 195
Default

Does anyone have a chart that lists the front upper arm spacers?
Like spacers forward what would the caster be?
__________________
www.skyski.com
www.foilforum.com

"Hey Baby want to make fourteen dollars...the hard way??" ----Rodney Dangerfield--Caddyshack.
TOO-TALL is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 10:08 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net