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Old 06-13-2015, 07:33 PM   #811
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Yep, upper arms are upside down. The arching part should be on top towards the rear of the car. Also, the uppers are side specific so just make sure you have the right on the right and left on the left. Also, I noticed in your first picture, you have the right side on the left side. They are side specific also FYI. All parts have a small L or R on them and they are all assuming you are in the drivers seat of the car (drivers side is left...passenger side is right), just like a full size car.

Also, on the pivot balls, it looks from the pictures like you were threading them in with pliers on the shaft? It might sound dumb but if you didn't already figure it out, there is a hex in the end so you can thread them in and out with a regular hex wrench driver. I know it took me a minute or two to figure that out first time I built a mugen kit.
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Old 06-13-2015, 10:00 PM   #812
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I agree, the mbx7t manual was a bit confusing in a few spots as well. I felt the instructions on my rc8.2e kit were a little more clear.

Maybe in the future, try to orientate everything the way it is on the drawings in the manual. I've found if I lay everything out the way it is shown I'm lot less likely to install things backwards or upside down
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Old 06-14-2015, 01:35 AM   #813
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If everything is tight your pillow ball nuts might be done up too tight, grab the uprights near the top and bottom and make sure there is a bit of movement between the upright and ball.
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Old 06-14-2015, 03:57 PM   #814
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has anyone had any problem with the front and rear ring gears hitting the bearing in the case mine are rubbing causing some binding. bearing is all way in.
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Old 06-15-2015, 12:49 AM   #815
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Ran my 7r eco this weekend for the first time and I have to say, it's Awesome!! The first couple battery packs it was a little looser on power then I would like. But then it broke in and it was badass. Are the carbon steering plate and rear hubs a must?
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Old 06-15-2015, 08:24 AM   #816
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depends on your setup. I am putting adam's setup on so I needed the rear hubs
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Old 06-15-2015, 02:23 PM   #817
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what gearing does everyone run for 1900 or 2000kv motors?
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Old 06-15-2015, 08:22 PM   #818
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ww29 View Post
has anyone had any problem with the front and rear ring gears hitting the bearing in the case mine are rubbing causing some binding. bearing is all way in.
I got my kit today! Got the diffs built and put together the front gear box and I am also having some binding. I doubled check everything and it is all correct. I didn't shim the diff as there didn't seem to be a need. I don't think it has anything to do with the bearing. It only binds in a small spot when I spin it. The teeth look fine. Any thoughts?

Also, it doesn't call for black grease on those gears but would it be a good idea to add some?

Last edited by worm304; 06-15-2015 at 08:35 PM.
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Old 06-16-2015, 03:33 AM   #819
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what gearing does everyone run for 1900 or 2000kv motors?
I like a 16 for stock gearing. Plenty of rip and top end....plenty of top end. On a 1900
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Old 06-16-2015, 03:49 AM   #820
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Originally Posted by worm304 View Post
I got my kit today! Got the diffs built and put together the front gear box and I am also having some binding. I doubled check everything and it is all correct. I didn't shim the diff as there didn't seem to be a need. I don't think it has anything to do with the bearing. It only binds in a small spot when I spin it. The teeth look fine. Any thoughts?

Also, it doesn't call for black grease on those gears but would it be a good idea to add some?
Did you try a small shim, One side at a time? Might help. Then again if its a really small spot like you said, might just need to spin it a little and break it in. When I do ring and pinions. I'll build them, spin them and listen to the sound, See how they feel, is it mostly smooth or can i feel every single tooth, I also will flip my front/rear clip over and mash my thumb onto the ring gear and diff case so the ring gear cant move at all and check the backlash to the pinion. You really want it as tight as you can get it WITHOUT binding at all. You don't want to feel the teeth as you spin it by hand. You going to feel the teeth engaging, you just don't want a chunk, chunk, chunk. As you spin it. Please add grease
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Old 06-16-2015, 06:30 AM   #821
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Originally Posted by Dont Hack Me View Post
Did you try a small shim, One side at a time? Might help. Then again if its a really small spot like you said, might just need to spin it a little and break it in. When I do ring and pinions. I'll build them, spin them and listen to the sound, See how they feel, is it mostly smooth or can i feel every single tooth, I also will flip my front/rear clip over and mash my thumb onto the ring gear and diff case so the ring gear cant move at all and check the backlash to the pinion. You really want it as tight as you can get it WITHOUT binding at all. You don't want to feel the teeth as you spin it by hand. You going to feel the teeth engaging, you just don't want a chunk, chunk, chunk. As you spin it. Please add grease
I tried to shim both sides to see what would happen and it was worse so I just shimmed the opposite side of the ring gear and it's smooth.. Added some grease and now I can continue. Thanks!
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Old 06-16-2015, 04:14 PM   #822
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I like a 16 for stock gearing. Plenty of rip and top end....plenty of top end. On a 1900
ok thats what i figured. ive had two Trintiy D8 2000kv motors go bad now, first was with 16t and the seond was with 15t. No timing and they motor ran fine for a few packs and then went bad after a couple battery packs. When one went bad I thought maybe its my fault but then another and with pretty standard gearing I knew something had to be wrong. So i sent them in to trinity, hopefully they replace them.
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Old 06-17-2015, 04:04 AM   #823
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Originally Posted by Graham11 View Post
ok thats what i figured. ive had two Trintiy D8 2000kv motors go bad now, first was with 16t and the seond was with 15t. No timing and they motor ran fine for a few packs and then went bad after a couple battery packs. When one went bad I thought maybe its my fault but then another and with pretty standard gearing I knew something had to be wrong. So i sent them in to trinity, hopefully they replace them.
I picked up the SMC 1900. Im not going to sugar coat it. I abuse this motor all the time. Throw a 6500 in , go run it. Hit LV, throw another one in, go run it. I wanted to really see what it could take when i first picked it up. Now it has turned into a challenge. Liked it so much i picked up another for backup. My Mugen likes it. She cant tell between SMC, or Tekin.
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Old 06-17-2015, 06:20 PM   #824
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Originally Posted by Dont Hack Me View Post
I picked up the SMC 1900. Im not going to sugar coat it. I abuse this motor all the time. Throw a 6500 in , go run it. Hit LV, throw another one in, go run it. I wanted to really see what it could take when i first picked it up. Now it has turned into a challenge. Liked it so much i picked up another for backup. My Mugen likes it. She cant tell between SMC, or Tekin.
Damn wish I didn't just cancel my SMC order then haha. Trinity is going to replace my d8 but I wanted to try the SMC.

On another note my Eco is two races old and today i opened the diff cases and found significant rusting on the 44t gear and around the bearings, then I checked my nitro buggy which is 1 week old and same thing. I've had a bunch of brands and never once have had anything rust. What's up?
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Old 06-18-2015, 07:44 AM   #825
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Default Tuning the front Diff

Hi Guys,
I ma having trouble tuning the front Diff gears for my Mugen mbx7 eco. I have tried the following:
Adding one shim to one side to try push the ring gear closer to the pinion. This was fine till i tighten all the screws, then it felt like it was grinding.

I then tried to remove it with no shims, then after tightening it felt too loose.
I also tried to put one on each side and this was way too tight.

I am not sure what to do anymore.

Last edited by Italo2275; 06-18-2015 at 08:25 AM.
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