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Old 06-06-2015, 12:07 AM   #781
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Thoughts on batteries, I am running a Tekin Rx8 with 1900kv. I am thinking I do not need a high C rating and the 4500-5000mah is the sweet spot for weight and capacity.

Considering one of the two batteries

5000 20c
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...arehouse_.html

4500 30c
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...arehouse_.html
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Old 06-06-2015, 05:56 AM   #782
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Thoughts on batteries, I am running a Tekin Rx8 with 1900kv. I am thinking I do not need a high C rating and the 4500-5000mah is the sweet spot for weight and capacity.

Considering one of the two batteries

5000 20c
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...arehouse_.html

4500 30c
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...arehouse_.html
I run a 1800 KV and I do have a high C battery but its overkill. As matter of fact, my sponsor switched to Lower C 4 cell lipos. If you are looking for a larger capacity battery check out Fantom's website. Between these 2 you posted, just decide if you need ROAR approved battery or not
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Old 06-07-2015, 10:22 AM   #783
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Having an issue today removing one of the rear wheel nuts, it seems to keep spinning and won't come off.

Any idea what's going on and how to get off?
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Old 06-07-2015, 12:45 PM   #784
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anyone running a t8i 1950?
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Old 06-07-2015, 02:46 PM   #785
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Having an issue today removing one of the rear wheel nuts, it seems to keep spinning and won't come off.

Any idea what's going on and how to get off?
you mean the 17mm nut ?
is the wheel ok ? if not, put a screwdriver through the universal joint to keep it from turning. you should be able the screw the nut out.
If the thread in the aluminium is dead, you might have to use some force !
maybe with strong pliers you can force it to follow the steel thead of the shaft.

if this doesn't work, you might have to cut it carefully out !
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Old 06-07-2015, 06:07 PM   #786
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anyone running a t8i 1950?
side question. what length senor wire is required for the standard set up? 100MM?
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Old 06-07-2015, 07:23 PM   #787
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I set up my buggy with Adam Drakes standard set up. Changed everything to match the sheet exactly. The gearing for that setup is 44/16. I ran this at the track today and when I temped my Tekin 1900 it was 209 degrees, ESC was 135. Anyone else running this gearing?
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Old 06-07-2015, 07:23 PM   #788
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Originally Posted by Photocycler View Post
Thoughts on batteries, I am running a Tekin Rx8 with 1900kv. I am thinking I do not need a high C rating and the 4500-5000mah is the sweet spot for weight and capacity.

Considering one of the two batteries

5000 20c
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...arehouse_.html

4500 30c
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...arehouse_.html
I have bought around 50-60 of the hardcase 5000mah turnigy packs. All have worked great. I've ran them in buggies and truggies with 1800-2600kv motors and I never felt like I needed a higher C pack.
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Old 06-08-2015, 05:07 AM   #789
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I set up my buggy with Adam Drakes standard set up. Changed everything to match the sheet exactly. The gearing for that setup is 44/16. I ran this at the track today and when I temped my Tekin 1900 it was 209 degrees, ESC was 135. Anyone else running this gearing?
That's what I run. For me that's the perfect amount of power and she does get hot. I run the SMC 1900, that's the temps i pull after a longer practice or a hard run main on a smallish sized indoor or outdoor. My temps are better tho on a medium sized track.
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Old 06-08-2015, 07:32 AM   #790
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[QUOTE]
I set up my buggy with Adam Drakes standard set up. Changed everything to match the sheet exactly. The gearing for that setup is 44/16. I ran this at the track today and when I temped my Tekin 1900 it was 209 degrees, ESC was 135. Anyone else running this gearing?

I did the exact same you did with my MBX7R-ECO, under the assumption it would make my current setup better and run cooler. NOT SO GOOD. switched to 44T/16 and my motor came off blazing hot, and per Randy Pike 220F+ was too hot. My advice is to take those setups they post with a grain of salt because they may or may not work. For Adam, maybe the 44T/16 is great, but for me the 44T/15 keeps my temps under control. I can run for 10 minutes with the 44T/15 combo and maybe get as hot as 186F. If I run the 44T/16, 5 minutes will put me upwards of 200F. If I start going down on the pinion too much it will heat up also, so the key is finding the sweet spot and staying there. It seems to me there is no such thing as BETTER with the gearing, its the sweet spot or worse..
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Old 06-08-2015, 09:41 AM   #791
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Thanks guys!!
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Old 06-08-2015, 10:11 AM   #792
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anyone running a t8i 1950?
I ran one in mine geared 17/46. It runs warmer than I'd like (230 after a 10 min main), but the power and speed is perfect. So much tamer than running a standard sized motor, I feel that I can pick up the throttle sooner and harder than a lot of other guys. Ideally I'd like to get the temp down 15-20, but I'm not noticing any fade in power at all. If the motor makes it through the season at those temps, I'll be happy. The only place I feel any disadvantage from a power standpoint is the start of the race from a standstill. That same motor ran similar temps in my DEX8, which is what its going back into as I like the feel of that car better than the Mugen.
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Old 06-08-2015, 10:24 AM   #793
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hey guys, I'm almost done building my kit. I built it by the book setup which is typically what I do to get a base feeling of what the "normal" car feels like then adjust from there. My question though is what are some "must haves" as far as upgrades (springs/pistons/etc)? I know Drake has a few setups put there, is that what is becoming a pretty good go-to? I race on larger, medium grip, outdoor tracks. I also saw his one setup had 10k/10k/6k I believe in the diffs. How is that working for those that have tried it?
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Old 06-08-2015, 11:36 AM   #794
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Photocycler View Post
Thoughts on batteries, I am running a Tekin Rx8 with 1900kv. I am thinking I do not need a high C rating and the 4500-5000mah is the sweet spot for weight and capacity.

Considering one of the two batteries

5000 20c
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...arehouse_.html

4500 30c
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...arehouse_.html
Stay away from low C rated packs. They can and often will damage the esc not being able to sustain the load.
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Old 06-08-2015, 12:29 PM   #795
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I ran one in mine geared 17/46. It runs warmer than I'd like (230 after a 10 min main), but the power and speed is perfect. So much tamer than running a standard sized motor, I feel that I can pick up the throttle sooner and harder than a lot of other guys. Ideally I'd like to get the temp down 15-20, but I'm not noticing any fade in power at all. If the motor makes it through the season at those temps, I'll be happy. The only place I feel any disadvantage from a power standpoint is the start of the race from a standstill. That same motor ran similar temps in my DEX8, which is what its going back into as I like the feel of that car better than the Mugen.
right on! I picked up that motor with intentions of running super light, then I had a change of heart and am about to pull the trigger on the mugen. I sold 2 others cars to finance my next one and have been struggling with the decision. if the motor isn't going to cut it, I may just go eb48sl. i already have the eb48.2 so i want something different. i love 1/8 buggies!
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