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Old 04-13-2015, 07:42 AM   #571
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Originally Posted by jjahn View Post
So what pinion is everybody running with 1900kv.
I have been running the 16T with my SMC 1900KV motor. After running hard for 10 min I am getting to about 150 + or - a few degrees. But the ambient temps have not been very hot yet. Pretty dang fast but I want to try the 17t pinion to see what it does. It is a bit slower on the big straits compared with the nitro buggies, It seems pretty comparable to the other e-buggies. It does really well against the nitro buggies in the more technical portions of the track.

One thing I can state for sure is this is a very durable buggy. It has been a few years since I last drove, and I am very hard on it. The only thing I have broken other than a severely abused body and wing has been a front shock end when It came in contact with a object that did not move.
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Old 04-13-2015, 07:53 AM   #572
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Default Build impressions and initial thoughts of the MBX7R ECO

Build impressions and initial thoughts of the MBX7R ECO

To be honest I am just a little bit disappointed with this kit. To be fair maybe my expectations may have been a little too high. It just seemed everything I read or heard about Mugen was overwhelmingly positive, how the quality was top notch, and on and on. it sort of makes me wish I would have gone with the Durango purely because my expectations would have been lower. I know the build is only part of the equation and track performance and durability are also key, which I have yet to experience. For the most part the kit went together really well, there were only really a couple of minor hiccups which I will try to explain.

Let me start off with the biggest problem I ran into, the motor mount. The mount by itself easily slid back and forth. When I mounted my motor to the plate it was nearly impossible to slide. From what I could tell the second part of the mount, the part that secured to the chassis and held the diff, was slightly too thick of something. It would contact the motor when you slid it in. So basically it put a scratch in the anodizing of the motor and made sliding it really tough. FYI: I did try it several times and if I loosened the screws to the motor it would slide, but a soon as I tightened them down and tried again it would make contact on with the second piece of the motor mount. It makes adjusting the gear mesh a pain, and it really put a bad taste in my mouth.

Putting the pillow ball nut in was another frustrating endeavor. I have never had pillow ball suspension so maybe itís par for the course. I knew coming in that people werenít impressed with the manual. For the most part it is okay, but when you were building things with similar looking parts it didnít do a good job at calling your attention to the differences. The kit came with replacement screws that mount the front, rear and diff assembly to the chassis, but I doesnít mention why, it doesn't even mention which step to use the screws. Iím not sure if the other screws are bad, but I guess you have to assume that they are. Also, I canít believe it didn't come with wheels! Iím pretty sure every other kit Iíve had has come with a set of wheels. Anyways most of the gripes are minor. I do feel like the motor mount was an issue, and it just set the tone for me on this build. Would I buy this kit again? Yes I would. Would I recommend it to others? Yes I would.

I will say the quality is there. The anodizing is great and all the pictures I had seen donít do it justice. The plastics seem super high quality as well. The tolerances are also amazing. Everything fit together perfect aside from the motor mount.
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Old 04-13-2015, 08:19 AM   #573
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjahn View Post
Build impressions and initial thoughts of the MBX7R ECO

To be honest I am just a little bit disappointed with this kit. To be fair maybe my expectations may have been a little too high. It just seemed everything I read or heard about Mugen was overwhelmingly positive, how the quality was top notch, and on and on. it sort of makes me wish I would have gone with the Durango purely because my expectations would have been lower. I know the build is only part of the equation and track performance and durability are also key, which I have yet to experience. For the most part the kit went together really well, there were only really a couple of minor hiccups which I will try to explain.

Let me start off with the biggest problem I ran into, the motor mount. The mount by itself easily slid back and forth. When I mounted my motor to the plate it was nearly impossible to slide. From what I could tell the second part of the mount, the part that secured to the chassis and held the diff, was slightly too thick of something. It would contact the motor when you slid it in. So basically it put a scratch in the anodizing of the motor and made sliding it really tough. FYI: I did try it several times and if I loosened the screws to the motor it would slide, but a soon as I tightened them down and tried again it would make contact on with the second piece of the motor mount. It makes adjusting the gear mesh a pain, and it really put a bad taste in my mouth.

Putting the pillow ball nut in was another frustrating endeavor. I have never had pillow ball suspension so maybe it’s par for the course. I knew coming in that people weren’t impressed with the manual. For the most part it is okay, but when you were building things with similar looking parts it didn’t do a good job at calling your attention to the differences. The kit came with replacement screws that mount the front, rear and diff assembly to the chassis, but I doesn’t mention why, it doesn't even mention which step to use the screws. I’m not sure if the other screws are bad, but I guess you have to assume that they are. Also, I can’t believe it didn't come with wheels! I’m pretty sure every other kit I’ve had has come with a set of wheels. Anyways most of the gripes are minor. I do feel like the motor mount was an issue, and it just set the tone for me on this build. Would I buy this kit again? Yes I would. Would I recommend it to others? Yes I would.

I will say the quality is there. The anodizing is great and all the pictures I had seen don’t do it justice. The plastics seem super high quality as well. The tolerances are also amazing. Everything fit together perfect aside from the motor mount.
I don't get why everyone complains about the instructions.... Yeah its not Dumbed down like Losi .....I have built a dozen mugens over the years and its pretty straight forward I feel people over think it .... remember KISS and it will go together smoothly

the motor mount is NOT a issue... you have to loosen the upper screw that mounts the motor to the motor plate then you can adjust the mount after you get the gear mesh where you want it then tighten the vertical screws then tighten the upper motor screw .... the reason it is like this so it does not move the 6 had issues with the gear mesh would change during a run ...so with this mount it locks it in place ..
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Old 04-13-2015, 08:39 AM   #574
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Originally Posted by R1Joel View Post
It won't fit properly. I run mine still but the left side sticks up slightly from the battery.

are you sure you have the proline phantom body? why is this mmbx7r eco covered with proline phantom body of mbx7r? and no prob at all looks like it fit very well with 4s batt
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Old 04-13-2015, 08:47 AM   #575
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Originally Posted by Waflet View Post
Hideeho
Fit over the chassis, yes.
Fit over the motor & a full size 4s lipo, no.

Hideehohoho!

I think you only guessing on what youre saying here. how do you know? check the photo, that body is proline phantom body for mbx7r that cover a mbx7r eco, so how do you say "YES - NO?" btw also i cant understand what youve answer in here, fit for the chassis yes, fit over the motor and 4s no? if the body wont fit with 4s batt and motor then in theory it wont fit at all. i'm confuse on this answer.
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Old 04-13-2015, 08:56 AM   #576
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Originally Posted by mxer373 View Post
I don't get why everyone complains about the instructions.... Yeah its not Dumbed down like Losi .....I have built a dozen mugens over the years and its pretty straight forward I feel people over think it .... remember KISS and it will go together smoothly

the motor mount is NOT a issue... you have to loosen the upper screw that mounts the motor to the motor plate then you can adjust the mount after you get the gear mesh where you want it then tighten the vertical screws then tighten the upper motor screw .... the reason it is like this so it does not move the 6 had issues with the gear mesh would change during a run ...so with this mount it locks it in place ..
I agree with the motor mount it's fine. I put a little black grease on mine so it slides fine and I've never had the mesh change while running the buggy.
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Old 04-13-2015, 09:36 AM   #577
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Originally Posted by TLR_TeknoRC View Post
Hideehohoho!

I think you only guessing on what youre saying here. how do you know? check the photo, that body is proline phantom body for mbx7r that cover a mbx7r eco, so how do you say "YES - NO?" btw also i cant understand what youve answer in here, fit for the chassis yes, fit over the motor and 4s no? if the body wont fit with 4s batt and motor then in theory it wont fit at all. i'm confuse on this answer.
Hideeho
Your picture perfectly illustrates the problem. I couldn't quickly find a pic from the lipo side like yours, but the pic from the proline site will work.

1. notice the prolline pic has the side pod parallel with the ground front to back. The front is not higher than the back.
2. the area where the body pin holds the body down in the front is straight across on the nitro buggy. It is tilted up towards the rear on the ebug.
3. the roof line & "hood" line (where the front body pin is) is parallel with the ground left to right on the nitro buggy. On the ebug the left side is hgher than the right.
4. there is more of the bottom of the chassis showing at the front of the ebug than the back.

In summery, the body will fit on, but it wont clear the lipo.

If you can deal with the extra wear & tear & the body sitting crooked, then go for it. If you want a body that fits properly, sits straight & doesn't undue wear & tear look elsewhere till proline comes out with a phantom for the ebug.
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Old 04-13-2015, 09:45 AM   #578
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Originally Posted by TLR_TeknoRC View Post
Hideehohoho!

I think you only guessing on what youre saying here. how do you know? check the photo, that body is proline phantom body for mbx7r that cover a mbx7r eco, so how do you say "YES - NO?" btw also i cant understand what youve answer in here, fit for the chassis yes, fit over the motor and 4s no? if the body wont fit with 4s batt and motor then in theory it wont fit at all. i'm confuse on this answer.
Hideeho
p.s. You could also use a small 4s like this:
http://www.amain.com/rc-cars/protek-...101-15/p423774
& the phantom would clear that with no issue. The problem then becomes the motor sits to high. The motor in the ebug sits higher than anything in the nitro buggy (other than the cooling head). It will rub the body, but won't be any where near as big of an issue as a standard size 4s is.

Oh yeah, no I'm not guessing at any of this. There are numerous guys at my local track that run mugen (it's the car of the week until the new AE comes out) & the phantom & have tried the body on my car (I REALLY like it, but do not want to deal with the fitment issues).
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Old 04-13-2015, 09:51 AM   #579
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Originally Posted by mxer373 View Post
I don't get why everyone complains about the instructions.... Yeah its not Dumbed down like Losi .....I have built a dozen mugens over the years and its pretty straight forward I feel people over think it .... remember KISS and it will go together smoothly

the motor mount is NOT a issue... you have to loosen the upper screw that mounts the motor to the motor plate then you can adjust the mount after you get the gear mesh where you want it then tighten the vertical screws then tighten the upper motor screw .... the reason it is like this so it does not move the 6 had issues with the gear mesh would change during a run ...so with this mount it locks it in place ..

Maybe that is something that should be in the manual. Never built a Losi. The manual is fine it's just not great.
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Old 04-13-2015, 05:59 PM   #580
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjahn View Post
Build impressions and initial thoughts of the MBX7R ECO

To be honest I am just a little bit disappointed with this kit. To be fair maybe my expectations may have been a little too high. It just seemed everything I read or heard about Mugen was overwhelmingly positive, how the quality was top notch, and on and on. it sort of makes me wish I would have gone with the Durango purely because my expectations would have been lower. I know the build is only part of the equation and track performance and durability are also key, which I have yet to experience. For the most part the kit went together really well, there were only really a couple of minor hiccups which I will try to explain.
Sad to hear that. Built a lot of Mugen kits and have yet to have an issue. Fit and finish has always been great and enjoy building them.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jjahn View Post
Let me start off with the biggest problem I ran into, the motor mount. The mount by itself easily slid back and forth. When I mounted my motor to the plate it was nearly impossible to slide. From what I could tell the second part of the mount, the part that secured to the chassis and held the diff, was slightly too thick of something. It would contact the motor when you slid it in. So basically it put a scratch in the anodizing of the motor and made sliding it really tough. FYI: I did try it several times and if I loosened the screws to the motor it would slide, but a soon as I tightened them down and tried again it would make contact on with the second piece of the motor mount. It makes adjusting the gear mesh a pain, and it really put a bad taste in my mouth.
Funny mine is perfect. It was one thing that I was impressed with. Two pieces machined separately fitting to perfection with no slop. The tolerances were perfect. Just checked my mount and installed in the car I loosened my mount screws and slid motor back and forth with ease. I am running a SMC 1900kv motor. I can see where you would be frustrated.

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Originally Posted by jjahn View Post
Putting the pillow ball nut in was another frustrating endeavor. I have never had pillow ball suspension so maybe it’s par for the course. I knew coming in that people weren’t impressed with the manual. For the most part it is okay, but when you were building things with similar looking parts it didn’t do a good job at calling your attention to the differences. The kit came with replacement screws that mount the front, rear and diff assembly to the chassis, but I doesn’t mention why, it doesn't even mention which step to use the screws. I’m not sure if the other screws are bad, but I guess you have to assume that they are. Also, I can’t believe it didn't come with wheels! I’m pretty sure every other kit I’ve had has come with a set of wheels. Anyways most of the gripes are minor. I do feel like the motor mount was an issue, and it just set the tone for me on this build. Would I buy this kit again? Yes I would. Would I recommend it to others? Yes I would.
They are not the easiest, but can be done with ease if patient. What I did was leave the pillow ball out, grab the nut, slide the allen in deep, start the nut into the pillow ball, look at the back end of the front upright and make sure allen is passing through the center of the cutout for the pillow ball and tighten nut. The flush one is easiest to start and keep on proper track, but the recessed one can be a bit harder to deal with. I chased the threads a few times then assembled the pillow bals and went pretty easy.

As far as build goes, a set of calipers by your side is great to have to identify the right size parts. This was a clean build for me. Didn't build something, install, and realize that I used the wrong part. Try building a Vaterra Ascender if you want a crap manual to follow.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jjahn View Post
I will say the quality is there. The anodizing is great and all the pictures I had seen don’t do it justice. The plastics seem super high quality as well. The tolerances are also amazing. Everything fit together perfect aside from the motor mount.
The quality is there and has been for many years. They are top tier kits and run on the track like one..
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Old 04-13-2015, 06:39 PM   #581
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Originally Posted by Al_T View Post
I have been running the 16T with my SMC 1900KV motor. After running hard for 10 min I am getting to about 150 + or - a few degrees. But the ambient temps have not been very hot yet. Pretty dang fast but I want to try the 17t pinion to see what it does. It is a bit slower on the big straits compared with the nitro buggies, It seems pretty comparable to the other e-buggies. It does really well against the nitro buggies in the more technical portions of the track.

One thing I can state for sure is this is a very durable buggy. It has been a few years since I last drove, and I am very hard on it. The only thing I have broken other than a severely abused body and wing has been a front shock end when It came in contact with a object that did not move.
when i went up a tooth on my sons buggy,it was too hot for my liking..with a 16t we were at 170* after a 7min run..you also have to consider who is behind the wheel..my son is very fast so,he is on the gas constantly.. also he felt like the 16t didn't have the punch he needed.. funny how your smc1900 runs cooler than mine:-).. maybe my hobby
wing runs Warmer?
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Old 04-13-2015, 09:27 PM   #582
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Finished her up yesterday. It is not as easy to do a build with a 3.5 year old boy at home but I got her done regardless. Waiting on delivery of a few sets of AKA wheels/tires and a new futaba rx and she will be ready for a test run. Still need to order a black servo arm (blue was all I had in my pit box) and a transponder. Would have liked a black rx8 case and still might get one but that is me being a little ocd. Was trying to avoid the 1/8th scale bug, but I got bit.
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Old 04-13-2015, 09:39 PM   #583
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Originally Posted by hairymuffin View Post
when i went up a tooth on my sons buggy,it was too hot for my liking..with a 16t we were at 170* after a 7min run..you also have to consider who is behind the wheel..my son is very fast so,he is on the gas constantly.. also he felt like the 16t didn't have the punch he needed.. funny how your smc1900 runs cooler than mine:-).. maybe my hobby
wing runs Warmer?
I am running the Hobby wing 150 esc. We have a couple of long straits at the local track and the rest is pretty tight. That may have a bit to do with the temps. Checked it with two different IR thermometers both very close.
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Old 04-13-2015, 09:50 PM   #584
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I am running the Hobby wing 150 esc. We have a couple of long straits at the local track and the rest is pretty tight. That may have a bit to do with the temps. Checked it with two different IR thermometers both very close.
What's a good lap time at your track?
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Old 04-14-2015, 02:40 AM   #585
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After going over the car after a track session, I found that the steering pivot bushings C0801H were hitting the gear diff casing. See attached photo. My EPA was set at around 80-85%. Now, I've had to set the EPA to around 60% in order to avoid the bushing hitting the case. Does this sound normal?? Surely such a low epa % is too low?

Either I built it incorrectly (which I can't see that I have), or it's a design floor?
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