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Old 04-09-2015, 02:46 PM   #541
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I just got my kit today. I opened it up to start the build and they sent a couple of different packs of screws stapled to a paper stating they were replacements. Anybody know what step these are used on? Or is it that there are enough of these that it replaces all screws of this type?
If I remember correctly those screws are for the front and rear diff case to for mounting to the chassis.
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Old 04-09-2015, 03:42 PM   #542
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Argh mine was supposed to be delivered today, but still no UPS man..... I am going crazy stating out the window waiting for the brown truck..
Lol, ordered mine from Tower too... paid extra for the shipping! got it sooo fast, I had to duck! Now just have to find time to paint the body and break'r in!

Cheers and happy building!
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Old 04-09-2015, 09:37 PM   #543
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I got a few in today Gonna have to keep one for myself. It's good to be back with Mugen.
E
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Old 04-10-2015, 05:59 AM   #544
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Hideeho
I'm not sure I 100% understand your question.

Do you mean there is no way to get any rebound in the shock at all? If so, it's only you.

Do you mean there is no way to get the exact same amount of rebound on all 4 shocks & have it stay exactly that way for a full 5 minute qualifier? That is not just you. That is the problem with building shocks & setups depending on rebound in the shock its self & why I NEVER build rebound into my shocks or setups.

I meant the first one.

Well, I don't think it takes rocket science to fill with oil an ammo, let the air flow out by slowly pushing up and down the piston and then, with the piston in lower position ( max extension ), close the ammo firmly.

Well, none of my 4 new MBX7r ammo has more then few mm of rebound.

Which is the trick here to have a full rebound ( without springs mounted of course )

thx
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Old 04-10-2015, 09:05 AM   #545
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Hey guys,

If this has been asked before I apologize. I'm converting my MBX7 Eco to a MBX7r ECO and have a set of aluminum hubs I never installed on my 7.
Now I know they made new hubs for the universal drive shafts since they take a 8x16x5. But old ones seem to be able to take either the large or small bearing on the inside of the hub and i did everything but bolt it on the car to see if it'll work.

So can I use my original aluminum rear hubs then?
Just don't want a $80 paper weight set.

Big thanks
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Old 04-10-2015, 11:55 PM   #546
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If I remember correctly those screws are for the front and rear diff case to for mounting to the chassis.
The screws are to attach the front and rear assemblies along with the motor mount to the chassis. Was something wrong quality wise with the original screws? Should I just throw those out?
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Old 04-11-2015, 06:24 AM   #547
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The screws are to attach the front and rear assemblies along with the motor mount to the chassis. Was something wrong quality wise with the original screws? Should I just throw those out?
I am in same position. Lost as to why they give the same screws in the little bags as what came in the kit. Dont know the reason why they need to be replaced.
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Old 04-11-2015, 09:49 AM   #548
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Originally Posted by Emmeth View Post
I meant the first one.

Well, I don't think it takes rocket science to fill with oil an ammo, let the air flow out by slowly pushing up and down the piston and then, with the piston in lower position ( max extension ), close the ammo firmly.

Well, none of my 4 new MBX7r ammo has more then few mm of rebound.

Which is the trick here to have a full rebound ( without springs mounted of course )

thx

Never close your damper with the piston in lowest position...! If you want a minimum of rebound, close it at highest possible position, if you want some rebound you will go lower, but never at maximum extension!


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Old 04-11-2015, 01:11 PM   #549
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Is out normal for the steering to somewhat bind and have limited range at full droop? I have mine built to factory setup. I noticed the steering isn't very free, I'm just pushing the linkages with my hand. If I try to go full lock right or left it gets considerably harder and actually pulls up on the arm. If I compress the suspension it becomes free and easily moves.
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Old 04-11-2015, 02:22 PM   #550
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Mine doesn't have that problem at 103 droop.
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Old 04-11-2015, 07:14 PM   #551
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Is the proline phantom body for mbx7r nitro will fit to mbx7r eco? or is there a specific proline phantom body for mbx7r eco?

i cant find the answer on the thread if someone already ask this
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Old 04-11-2015, 08:17 PM   #552
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Originally Posted by jjahn View Post
Is out normal for the steering to somewhat bind and have limited range at full droop? I have mine built to factory setup. I noticed the steering isn't very free, I'm just pushing the linkages with my hand. If I try to go full lock right or left it gets considerably harder and actually pulls up on the arm. If I compress the suspension it becomes free and easily moves.
I'm building mine right now and noticed this before I mounted to the chassis or had shocks on. I'm pretty sure it's the front driveshafts. It frees up when they are turned a 1/4 turn for me. Otherwise it lifts the arm trying to turn the universal
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Old 04-11-2015, 08:38 PM   #553
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Is the proline phantom body for mbx7r nitro will fit to mbx7r eco? or is there a specific proline phantom body for mbx7r eco?

i cant find the answer on the thread if someone already ask this
Hideeho
Fit over the chassis, yes.
Fit over the motor & a full size 4s lipo, no.
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Old 04-11-2015, 10:03 PM   #554
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Hideeho
Fit over the chassis, yes.e
Fit over the motor & a full size 4s lipo, no.

cant understand what you trying to say in here, is it the simple answer is no? it wont fit?
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Old 04-12-2015, 12:08 AM   #555
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It won't fit properly. I run mine still but the left side sticks up slightly from the battery.
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