R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road

Like Tree16Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 07-28-2016, 11:53 AM   #1666
Tech Champion
 
jmackani's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Shippensburg
Posts: 5,607
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

These are race vehicles and the mugen arms are no worse than any other brand. Arms do not magically break on their own. If you think it was magic, go back a few laps and think about what you hit or landed wrong and then realize it was the driver and not the cars problem. Go punch a brick wall and tell me if your hand breaks.
__________________
LCRC Raceway http://www.lostcreekcycles.com/lcrc.htm
Proline Racing http:://www.prolineracing.com
jmackani is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-28-2016, 12:27 PM   #1667
Tech Adept
 
Matt1970's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Columbus, IN
Posts: 189
Default

So I was at our club race outdoors the other day. The track was dry with about medium grip to slightly loose. Sometimes when I would first accelerate on the straight, my front wheels would come off the ground just a bit. Not really enough to affect it much, but I was wondering if that was a sign that I needed to make an adjustment somewhere or just typical? I started watching some of the others when I could, but didn't really see it much with them. I'm running 7 10 5 diff oils. Maybe take center down a little???
__________________
Mugen XB7R Eco Tekin RX8 Gen 2 / Tekin 2050kv
Tekno SCT410.3 Tekin RX8 Gen 2/ 4300HD/BCE Chassis
Future additions: Whatever I can get without my wife seeing it!!!
"When in doubt, FULL THROTTLE. It may not be the best solution, but it ends the suspense."
Matt1970 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-28-2016, 01:08 PM   #1668
Tech Master
 
jkas10's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Living in Paradise! Not really...
Posts: 1,211
Trader Rating: 121 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt1970 View Post
So I was at our club race outdoors the other day. The track was dry with about medium grip to slightly loose. Sometimes when I would first accelerate on the straight, my front wheels would come off the ground just a bit. Not really enough to affect it much, but I was wondering if that was a sign that I needed to make an adjustment somewhere or just typical? I started watching some of the others when I could, but didn't really see it much with them. I'm running 7 10 5 diff oils. Maybe take center down a little???
Matt, yes, I would lower the center diff fluid if you run in the same conditions again. Remember, the center diff delivers power to the front and rear diffs. It sends the most power to the end of the car with the least amount of resistance - or the end that is lighter. When accelerating, the front is lighter than the rear. However, heavier fluid will still allow the diff to send power to the heavy end of the car. If you are pulling the front tires off the ground, you are either hitting a bump in the track, or, you are getting a lot of drive from your rear tires. You may have noticed the rear of the car wanting to come around when exiting a corner while on power. The rear tires were spinning because of the amount of power delivered by the center diff. I have really tried to find the happy spot where the front of the car leads the rear around, allowing the rear to rotate, but not over-rotate. For example, On a lower traction surface, we might run 5/5/3. Higher traction, we may run 7/7/4, up to 10/12/5.
__________________
Jeremy Kasten - Cole's Pitman! (Dad); Kasten Racing: www.facebook.com/kastenracing
THANK YOU Sponsors: Mugen Seiki; REDS; AKA; Leadfinger Racing; NitroPro Fuel; Futaba; RC Addiction Products; Dialed-RC Hobbies; Ben Brocato Designs (BDB); PT RC Racing Oils; CowRC
jkas10 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-29-2016, 06:52 AM   #1669
Tech Champion
 
jmackani's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Shippensburg
Posts: 5,607
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt1970 View Post
So I was at our club race outdoors the other day. The track was dry with about medium grip to slightly loose. Sometimes when I would first accelerate on the straight, my front wheels would come off the ground just a bit. Not really enough to affect it much, but I was wondering if that was a sign that I needed to make an adjustment somewhere or just typical? I started watching some of the others when I could, but didn't really see it much with them. I'm running 7 10 5 diff oils. Maybe take center down a little???
You also may want to try more anti-squat in the rear of the car.
__________________
LCRC Raceway http://www.lostcreekcycles.com/lcrc.htm
Proline Racing http:://www.prolineracing.com
jmackani is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-29-2016, 08:18 AM   #1670
Tech Master
 
wittyname's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Hampton Roads
Posts: 1,886
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt1970 View Post
So I was at our club race outdoors the other day. The track was dry with about medium grip to slightly loose. Sometimes when I would first accelerate on the straight, my front wheels would come off the ground just a bit. Not really enough to affect it much, but I was wondering if that was a sign that I needed to make an adjustment somewhere or just typical? I started watching some of the others when I could, but didn't really see it much with them. I'm running 7 10 5 diff oils. Maybe take center down a little???
If it were me I would look at the track itself and see what is helping the front end come up. I know with 10 in my center diff my rig wont lift the front wheels on asphalt , much less a dirt surface. Anti squat would help , but it seems there is something like a bump or a hill or something on the track helping this happen . Just thinking out loud ....
__________________
Josh W.

Don't forget ... Have fun , talk sh*$ with your buddies, and have fun.

I race so I can have people flip my car over ....
wittyname is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2016, 10:17 PM   #1671
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Miami Beach
Posts: 783
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Sorry to be a bit off topic, but I searched for another thread with no luck.

I am in need of bodies for my Mugen MBXR 6 Eco. Any suggestions?
SouthFloridaApp is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-04-2016, 01:07 AM   #1672
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 718
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

I'm all about the jconcepts finnisher
rotor head33 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-04-2016, 06:02 AM   #1673
Tech Adept
 
JR V's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: NH
Posts: 222
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cain View Post
Doing some due diligence on various 1/8 vehicles out there and have a few questions on the xray xb8e 2016 platform:

- Does Mugen have a very active race team that looks to promote the vehicle and provide direction on setups, mods, etc. to the user community, especially on rctech or are we kind of on our own here? (coming from durango, this is a big thing to me as right now the policy of no driving team seems to just mean "your on your own" these days)
There are team guys around, but I'd say they are more limited than others, but if you need help, Drake is always there for you. One of the best in the business for that.

Quote:
- How is the quality of mugen parts in comparison to say Tekno or XRay?
Having owned numerous Mugen's and just acquiring a Tekno ET48.3, the mugens fit and finish is superior. The plastics are a much higher quality too imo. The tekno plastics are much more pliable probably leading to its overall tuffness but it feels a little inconsistent at times to me. I have not run an Xray nor Kyosho but would like to as I try to run everything to see if there's better out there. I have owned xray 10th scales in the past and they have to be one of the best builds out there. Impeccable quality.

Quote:
- If anyone knows, how is the fitment of Durango shock springs on mugen shocks? (odd question I know)
Don't know, never ran a Dingo.

Quote:
- A big thing out here is we have very loose tracks that can be rutted and have big jumps. One track has very tight lanes, like 6ft lanes at one point if that. On power steering is a big advantage which the Teknos have. How does the MBX7R Eco stack up in comparison and how is the rear end as far as being loose versus planted?
I run on a smaller 1/10th to 1/8th track and find no issue with steering. Almost have too much at times.

Quote:
- What items are considered must haves to purchase for the vehicle as upgrades?
Nothing really. I run the aluminum servo saver arm and that's it.

Quote:
- Same question as spares?
Have broken a rear arm from a long jump contest, other than that nothing in a year and a half of running the eco. I'd still grab the usual arms, shafts, shock plastics and a spur gear.

Quote:
- What is the recommended battery size for proper weight balance (Tekno's say they use 6500mah sized packs, so something like that kind of suggestion I am looking for).
I run 5600's and like the balance. Have run 7200 and thought it was a bit heavy.

Quote:
- Lastly, is there a new vehicle in the works?

Thanks before hand!
Might be, but when will it come is the question...
JR V is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2016, 01:30 AM   #1674
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Perth
Posts: 99
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Capelracer View Post
Got a new offroad track starting up in my area & they're going to run a "superlight" class - 1/8E buggies with 2s batteries & 550 motors (it's a small track!!!).
Any recommendations on kv for the motor and gearing??
hey mate, I run a 2s MBX7r eco in perth (at Belmont). My buggy is absolutely stock out of the box (3.1kg). I use the hobbywing short course combo with the 4000kv motor. I'd have to check the gearing for you, not sure whats on there. I have no problems competing with the 4s buggies (we run mixed), in fact on Friday night, I TQ'd and won and the only other 2s buggy came home in second (sworks BE-1).

From what I've seen, the hobbywing is pretty popular in the super lights. I've seen one guy running a little 1/10th esc and 2 pole motor with no worries either (it just gets a bit HOTTTT!!!) The main thing is REALLY GOOD QUALITY BATTERIES. punching that weight around with 2s voltage draws heaps of current, I initially ran it with two 2s shorties in parallel which worked great.

It's worth running a fan on the motor in the summer, this time of year I don't bother. you'll only be good for about 7 minutes of running, but I'm pretty sure the super lights always run 5 minute races anyway. There's a demo class running at the 1/10 nationals this year.
cjmurph is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2016, 06:56 AM   #1675
Tech Regular
 
Capelracer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Bunbury, West Oz
Posts: 335
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by cjmurph View Post
hey mate, I run a 2s MBX7r eco in perth (at Belmont). My buggy is absolutely stock out of the box (3.1kg). I use the hobbywing short course combo with the 4000kv motor. I'd have to check the gearing for you, not sure whats on there. I have no problems competing with the 4s buggies (we run mixed), in fact on Friday night, I TQ'd and won and the only other 2s buggy came home in second (sworks BE-1).

From what I've seen, the hobbywing is pretty popular in the super lights. I've seen one guy running a little 1/10th esc and 2 pole motor with no worries either (it just gets a bit HOTTTT!!!) The main thing is REALLY GOOD QUALITY BATTERIES. punching that weight around with 2s voltage draws heaps of current, I initially ran it with two 2s shorties in parallel which worked great.

It's worth running a fan on the motor in the summer, this time of year I don't bother. you'll only be good for about 7 minutes of running, but I'm pretty sure the super lights always run 5 minute races anyway. There's a demo class running at the 1/10 nationals this year.
Cheers for the reply, I'll have to make it up to Belmont for a run (hard when I finish work at 5:30 on a friday in Bunno - when you guys running on a sunday again??)... had my first run in Collie today - I ended up scoring a Tekin rx8 & Pro4 4000kv from a guy who ran superlights at the states this year - it went like a rocket, but yeah drew some current out of the battery. What tyres you using at Belmont??
Capelracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2016, 08:01 PM   #1676
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Perth
Posts: 99
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Capelracer View Post
Cheers for the reply, I'll have to make it up to Belmont for a run (hard when I finish work at 5:30 on a friday in Bunno - when you guys running on a sunday again??)... had my first run in Collie today - I ended up scoring a Tekin rx8 & Pro4 4000kv from a guy who ran superlights at the states this year - it went like a rocket, but yeah drew some current out of the battery. What tyres you using at Belmont??
We've pretty much locked in Friday nights now, seems like it's what everyone wants to do. If the weather is good, we run a test and tune day on Sunday, and often line up some racing (just simple one qualy one main).
It's generally agreed that Schumacher mini spikes are the tire to be on at Belmont, though I tried some cheap VP Pro tyres on Friday ($40 delivered for 4 pre-mounted), they were awesome. Any spike or grass tyre will work ok (spirals are ok too).

Can't go past the Tekin if you have the $$$ or find one second hand, that's for sure.

You should get the Collie guys to talk to Chris Mitchell from west coast about including Collie in this years interclub series.
cjmurph is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2016, 01:24 AM   #1677
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 126
Default

i need a new body for my MBX7R eco.
I am running 4s batteries and so i not want again the original body.

Which body´s fitting ?
ddick is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2016, 09:35 AM   #1678
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 427
Trader Rating: 20 (100%+)
Default

Quick question.

About to make the switch over from tekno but before doing so, I'd like to know what parts are interchangeable between the electric and the nitro version. I'm hoping everything like the front clip and rear clip.

Thanks
NoobRacer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2016, 10:36 AM   #1679
Tech Champion
 
jmackani's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Shippensburg
Posts: 5,607
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by NoobRacer View Post
Quick question.

About to make the switch over from tekno but before doing so, I'd like to know what parts are interchangeable between the electric and the nitro version. I'm hoping everything like the front clip and rear clip.

Thanks
Yes they are. Mostly the center diff stuff is the difference.
__________________
LCRC Raceway http://www.lostcreekcycles.com/lcrc.htm
Proline Racing http:://www.prolineracing.com
jmackani is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2016, 10:14 PM   #1680
Tech Elite
 
1/8 IC Fan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: North America & Europe
Posts: 2,430
Trader Rating: 46 (98%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by eortizr View Post
Left front a-arms break like butter on the mbx7r.
Is that a reference to when the arm is frozen? Given that Butter doesn't normally break unless frozen?

But seriously, as everyone else stated breaking arms is a non issue! The only thing related to the arms that I have ever broken on any MBX7 platform, as well as my son are cracking a few Hinge-Pin inserts. This is on Truggies and buggies both Brushless and Nitro. Also with the upgraded arms on the "R" cars and trucks, I have not Broken the Hinge-Pin inserts with the same frequency as before.

Yet I would be willing to watch some race footage in which an A-Arm breakes, have not seen Adam, Cole, Robert of Davide break an arm, nor to mention Scott H. or Reno S. when they wheeled a Mugen!
__________________
-if you can't get ahold of me I am probably working, and that's out in the ocean. So please have patience when trying to correspond. - Thank you.


-> Harvey happend, now we can get back up on our feet and carry on.

Last edited by 1/8 IC Fan; 08-08-2016 at 10:20 PM. Reason: grammar
1/8 IC Fan is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 05:08 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net