29LikesMugen MBX7R Eco thread!
01-05-2015, 08:54 AM
#151
What spare parts should I stock up on? Just ordered this car from my lhs and should have it by next week...can't wait!
01-05-2015, 04:30 PM
#152
If you have a decent charger, you only need two lipos. Lipos arent like the Nimh and Nicd batteries where you have to keep them to one run a day with a 24 hour rest.
Thank God those days are over. I run the same 2 packs 3 times each and they dont show any loss in punch or run time after 2 years. I have a couple 2 cell packs that are 4 years old and just as strong as day one.
Thank God those days are over. I run the same 2 packs 3 times each and they dont show any loss in punch or run time after 2 years. I have a couple 2 cell packs that are 4 years old and just as strong as day one.
01-05-2015, 04:48 PM
#153
If you have a decent charger, you only need two lipos. Lipos arent like the Nimh and Nicd batteries where you have to keep them to one run a day with a 24 hour rest.Thank God those days are over. I run the same 2 packs 3 times each and they dont show any loss in punch or run time after 2 years. I have a couple 2 cell packs that are 4 years old and just as strong as day one.
Thank God those days are over. I run the same 2 packs 3 times each and they dont show any loss in punch or run time after 2 years. I have a couple 2 cell packs that are 4 years old and just as strong as day one.
Which parts break the most on this car?
01-05-2015, 10:05 PM
#154
Front lower arms (new arms are much improved, but they can break)
Shock shafts, shock ends, & axles (if the arm breaks, decent chance of messing these up also)
Spur gear (it's plastic, what do expect
)Shock inserts for the top of the shock (they seem to wear out fairly quick on rough tracks)
Your typical dif o rings & seals as well as shock o rings (mugen makes good ones, but I replace them every few months anyway)
01-06-2015, 09:03 AM
#155
Thanks!! We're you able to view the video?
01-06-2015, 09:20 AM
#156
Hideeho
Yes I did. That is not a 1900kv track in any way lol! Either the 2200kv or the 2250kv will work. I would lean more to the 2200kv, but I'm still more of a point & shoot driver (small tracks tend to do the to you
). With you coming from on road, if your used to being a smooth driver & carrying more corner speed the extra rpms from the 2250kv might serve you better.
Yes I did. That is not a 1900kv track in any way lol! Either the 2200kv or the 2250kv will work. I would lean more to the 2200kv, but I'm still more of a point & shoot driver (small tracks tend to do the to you
). With you coming from on road, if your used to being a smooth driver & carrying more corner speed the extra rpms from the 2250kv might serve you better.
01-06-2015, 12:02 PM
#157
Hideeho
Yes I did. That is not a 1900kv track in any way lol! Either the 2200kv or the 2250kv will work. I would lean more to the 2200kv, but I'm still more of a point & shoot driver (small tracks tend to do the to you ). With you coming from on road, if your used to being a smooth driver & carrying more corner speed the extra rpms from the 2250kv might serve you better.
Yes I did. That is not a 1900kv track in any way lol! Either the 2200kv or the 2250kv will work. I would lean more to the 2200kv, but I'm still more of a point & shoot driver (small tracks tend to do the to you
). With you coming from on road, if your used to being a smooth driver & carrying more corner speed the extra rpms from the 2250kv might serve you better.
01-06-2015, 03:39 PM
#158
Ran the 7r eco for the first race ran flawlessley on stock set up and handles like no other car iv drove. Ended up at four turns in on the droop screws but other then that all is good Very pleased with the performance at this time. Took diffs back out just to check and get the breakin oil out all looks as it was new. And ended up thikining the oil to 10,000 in the front all other diffs just put same kit oil back in. Going to run this weeked and see how the thicker oil feels. The buggy is a little soft for my driving style or lack of lol..But going to stay with kit set up for a bit till i get used to driving this rocket.
Last edited by debocurl5.0; 01-06-2015 at 04:58 PM.
01-06-2015, 04:48 PM
#159
oops, damper cap bushing is the correct term
http://www.amain.com/mugen-seiki-dam...shing-4/p29890
01-06-2015, 05:04 PM
#160
Hideeho
oops, damper cap bushing is the correct term
http://www.amain.com/mugen-seiki-dam...shing-4/p29890
oops, damper cap bushing is the correct term
http://www.amain.com/mugen-seiki-dam...shing-4/p29890
Any must have optional parts needed or this buggy just perfect out of the box
01-06-2015, 09:03 PM
#161
I don't own an r yet, so take my answer with a grain of salt
.Other than a few sets of springs (probably the next 2 harder ones front & rear), sway bars, pistons, & oils, no, not really.
I put the mugen cf top plate on it because it looked cool (but I will probably get the m2c aluminum one for the r), the m2c aluminum servo saver top (I run the servo saver tight & saw the plastic flexing when holding wheels in place
), & m2c rear wheels weights (just another tuning option, I tried the fronts & didn't care for them, but others like them). Almost forgot, I also run the m2c chassis, the steel inserts virtually eliminate chassis wear, are replaceable, & don't mess up your ride height measurements.
01-07-2015, 07:33 AM
#163
Hideeho
I don't own an r yet, so take my answer with a grain of salt.
Other than a few sets of springs (probably the next 2 harder ones front & rear), sway bars, pistons, & oils, no, not really.
I put the mugen cf top plate on it because it looked cool (but I will probably get the m2c aluminum one for the r), the m2c aluminum servo saver top (I run the servo saver tight & saw the plastic flexing when holding wheels in place), & m2c rear wheels weights (just another tuning option, I tried the fronts & didn't care for them, but others like them). Almost forgot, I also run the m2c chassis, the steel inserts virtually eliminate chassis wear, are replaceable, & don't mess up your ride height measurements.
I don't own an r yet, so take my answer with a grain of salt
.Other than a few sets of springs (probably the next 2 harder ones front & rear), sway bars, pistons, & oils, no, not really.
I put the mugen cf top plate on it because it looked cool (but I will probably get the m2c aluminum one for the r), the m2c aluminum servo saver top (I run the servo saver tight & saw the plastic flexing when holding wheels in place
), & m2c rear wheels weights (just another tuning option, I tried the fronts & didn't care for them, but others like them). Almost forgot, I also run the m2c chassis, the steel inserts virtually eliminate chassis wear, are replaceable, & don't mess up your ride height measurements.Front spring length stick with L75 (big bore)
Rear spring length stick with L86 (big bore)
MY guess is to stick with the big bore springs and stock lengths. Not sure what benefits are there in running non big bore springs in different lengths?
01-07-2015, 01:03 PM
#164
Think I got all the spare parts listed down the only confusing thing are the shocks. The stock springs that come with the car are big bore so if I were to choose softer or harder I should still select the same big bore springs? I notice the rears are always slightly harder compared to the fronts which I believe is normal for buggy cars.
Front spring length stick with L75 (big bore)
Rear spring length stick with L86 (big bore)
MY guess is to stick with the big bore springs and stock lengths. Not sure what benefits are there in running non big bore springs in different lengths?
Front spring length stick with L75 (big bore)
Rear spring length stick with L86 (big bore)
MY guess is to stick with the big bore springs and stock lengths. Not sure what benefits are there in running non big bore springs in different lengths?
The inside diameter of ALL Mugen springs is the same from the mbx6 through the mbx7r eco (including truggies). The length is what changes. The mbx6 uses 75mm front springs. The mbx7 eco uses 70mm front springs. It seems the mbx7r eco can use either 70mm or 75mm springs (it comes with a 75mm front spring & amain has it listed as compatible with all front springs). All of the mugens use 86mm rear springs.
p.s. There are 2 different types of springs though, black & silver. Iirc blacks use 1.6mm wire while the silvers use 1.5mm. Some folks will tell you the blacks are stiffer. This is not necessarily the case. They overlap. The 1.6mm x-hard is stiffer than the 1.5 x-hard, but the 1.6mm x-soft is only a little stiffer than the 1.5mm soft. They are basically 1/2 steps. There is a chart on the mbx7 eco (maybe nitro) thread with most of the actual spring stiffness's.
01-08-2015, 05:27 AM
#165
Hideeho
The inside diameter of ALL Mugen springs is the same from the mbx6 through the mbx7r eco (including truggies). The length is what changes. The mbx6 uses 75mm front springs. The mbx7 eco uses 70mm front springs. It seems the mbx7r eco can use either 70mm or 75mm springs (it comes with a 75mm front spring & amain has it listed as compatible with all front springs). All of the mugens use 86mm rear springs.
p.s. There are 2 different types of springs though, black & silver. Iirc blacks use 1.6mm wire while the silvers use 1.5mm. Some folks will tell you the blacks are stiffer. This is not necessarily the case. They overlap. The 1.6mm x-hard is stiffer than the 1.5 x-hard, but the 1.6mm x-soft is only a little stiffer than the 1.5mm soft. They are basically 1/2 steps. There is a chart on the mbx7 eco (maybe nitro) thread with most of the actual spring stiffness's.
The inside diameter of ALL Mugen springs is the same from the mbx6 through the mbx7r eco (including truggies). The length is what changes. The mbx6 uses 75mm front springs. The mbx7 eco uses 70mm front springs. It seems the mbx7r eco can use either 70mm or 75mm springs (it comes with a 75mm front spring & amain has it listed as compatible with all front springs). All of the mugens use 86mm rear springs.
p.s. There are 2 different types of springs though, black & silver. Iirc blacks use 1.6mm wire while the silvers use 1.5mm. Some folks will tell you the blacks are stiffer. This is not necessarily the case. They overlap. The 1.6mm x-hard is stiffer than the 1.5 x-hard, but the 1.6mm x-soft is only a little stiffer than the 1.5mm soft. They are basically 1/2 steps. There is a chart on the mbx7 eco (maybe nitro) thread with most of the actual spring stiffness's.