simmracing

What do you guys reccomend for a non-racing application? I'd like to get 10-15 min out of a battery pack while tooling around a parking lot.

tlxxx4driver

iTrader: (2)

well it depends on what kind of motor you running if has and advanced timming
but if you go with some decent 3300 packs no crazy voltage or even matached you will be fine just remember no need to spend thousands on gear

jamescam

iTrader: (10)

Might not want to trust this guys input... Here is more info on this putz...
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=83938

eri3f0g

iTrader: (14)

I've only been in the hobby a few years. When I first got into it I was just bashing with some traxxas trucks. I purchased the best deal on GP3300's I could get which happened to be at Promatchracing.com. I purchased their unmatched stick packs with deans on them. They worked great for bashing.

Then I started into racing. Full well knowing that my truck wasn't going to win but I was testing the racing waters. The GP's still ran great with stock motors and as stated above, I didn't have the skill to require more power. Upon switching to a T4/B4 I still ran the non-matched packs that were now over a year old. To be honest they did very well for me in stock class as I was beating people that definitely had better batteries than I.

As stated above, I didn't see the need for matched killer packs until just recently. Now that I feel I'm slightly qualified for some better packs I still didn't jump to the 80-100 dollar packs. I stopped at my LHS who sells promatch batteries and looked over his loose matched cells. I picked up a pack that has 420+ sec runtime, 1.18V with low resistance for $37.99. Then I spent a couple bucks on battery bars and soldered it up to a great race pack. I did go through 5 boxes of cells before finding one with the above numbers as they were labeled 400 sec+ 1.18v.. so by searching a few boxes I found a bit more runtime. Not a big issue for stock or bashing.

I guess it depends on your budget and how your gut feels. Personally I've had great luck with the GP33's. I've had some bad 3000 packs but they weren't a good brand which is a classic get what you pay for.

Keep asking questions!

Good luck!

Team Duratrax

No, there's not that much difference at all. All matchers purchase their cells from the same place and from there on they further tweak the cells which aren't very different from one another.

Sean

"Spanky

iTrader: (1)

KINETIX SMC'S 3800 RACE CELLS.
1.19 VOLTS OR HIGHER!

tlxxx4driver

iTrader: (2)

i found that teamscream cells are one of the best cell matcher out there

i know the owner he is an awesome guy and i have seen shop it is simply amazing so in my honest opion tcs cells are awesome

WYLDTHING

iTrader: (159)

Hey David A Sousa---aka swamptrkt4---How do those batteries work with the GT7 speed control you stole from me??? Just curious, you moron!!

Hey everybody, don't believe a word swamptrkt4 says, he is a thief and a liar!!!

Sorry to clutter your thread khan48, but I figured you should know the kind of person you were dealing with here....

Thanks, Brad

"Spanky

iTrader: (1)

speaking of racing cells, what are you guys charging at (current/amps) for a race and for practice?

jbrow1

iTrader: (28)

You shouldn't change what you do between racing and practicing. The batts like to be used the same way all the time. I charge my 3300's at 6 amps for stock racing. I know alot of guys who charge at 7 for stock. I think the recommended charge rate is 4.5 or 5 amps. And to get the best out of your batts you should equalize the cells on a tray down to .09 volts per cell. Some only do that periodically though. Just like everything else everybody has there own routine of battery maintenance.

baih

check their specials.
they have 4 cell and 6 cell pricing. make sure you order the right pack.

www.promatchracing.com