Can't handle bumps please help !!!!!!!!
 

I went to the track today and my k3 just does not handle worth a crap. My radio settings are finally there but when I turnm the wheels turn but it keeps going through the corner. When I go over mogules it flips at low speeds or just kit a bump. I t seems like thers no traction at the wheels what so ever it slides an starts doing cookies when i even slightly turn at low speeds hardly any gas. I've set everything the way its spose to and less i put around the track I will either flip or do cookies or keep going straight I can not get up to anuy sort of speed without any of this happening its frustrating. No one around here and any experience with the k3 so thats why I keep asking questions this buggy is spose to handle smooth and fast but
I can't get it to any help on what to change. Also if theres raw fuel comming out pipe do I turn the high idle in or out?
Thanks
Jon

From reading I'm going to guess this is your first 1/8 buggy, yes? Sounds like you need to try out some different springs. Try something a bit softer (The Kyosho black ones off the regular MP7.5) and try experimenting with spring spacers. It also helps to slow down on the curves too, because no buggy will be able to handle a 90 degree apex going 40mph. Hope that helps.

Have you done much offroad driving on tracks before? Being smooth on the throttle when you apply it helps greatly to control spinnouts. Also slowing down BEFORE the corner while your still on the straight, then keeping on the throttle just a bit through the corner will help you also. And don't cork it until your front tires are going straight.

Softer clutch springs may help tame it down also. You can tune the diffs with different silicone oil if you know what's currently in it.

If it's blubbering oil out the pipe you need to turn the high speed needle clockwise an 1/8 of a turn or less at a time until you reach desired performance and temps.

Sounds to me like you really just need some practice time on the car to get a feel for it on the track you run. No it shouldn't be flipping over moguls, but if the engine isn't tuned to accelerate, and you're not practiced enough to know how to hit them it will not do what it's supposed to do.

Last season there was a double on this one track I was new at. I couldn't hit it right even with a good run at it. I watched another guy nail it starting only from four feet away. He had good throttle control, and knew how to preload his suspension by using it. Me, I was wheelspinning like a banshee aproacing the jump, then spun up it and wasn't able to get the lift I needed to land the opposite jump. Practice time will do amazing things for your setup and driving.

Forgot to ask, what tires are you running, and what's the surface of the track? And does the car got the stock recommended setup on it? The guys here can't really make setup advice if they don't know what you're running. Although I have heard many times the K3 has a standard setup that works basically everywhere. I'm surprised you're having such troubles with it.

Thanks for the fast replys they help I understand i need more time at track but it seemed out of control compared to my hyper 7 yes i'm using pretty close to stk settings on k3 my preloads are 16 on front and 7 in rear
shock fronts are middle lower and inside setting on lower arm
rear are middle upper and inside on rear lower arm
blue springs, tcd diff in front 7k middle, 2k in rear tires are crime fighters m2 i have some xtr crimme fighters i;m thinking of changing, the track is very smooth lots of corners and very dusty
I don't klnow what shock oils are in it i'm going to chage fronts to 60w and 40 w in rear
Could my tcd diff in front be causing this? I cant; change right now because i just bought this but will be fore next season just getting used to it before winter
Jon

I personally like the idea of regular diffs all the way around so you can tune them with the oil. I know my K3 with 1000 in the rear feels very out of control. I'm going to change the rear to 3000 and hope to tame it down. I think I'm running 5000 front, and 7000 center. I run blue springs all around and the car handles pretty decent for me. I use a rear sway bar and adjust play with the length to change rear traction also. I just put in a front sway bar but haven't really tried it yet. Ya, check out your shocks. My K3 eats bladders for dinner. I'm running one blown ofna bladder in the top of the cap, and then one good ofna bladder where they are supposed to be and that seems to help them from blowing.

another thing to check is if the rear brakes are set to tight when you are off the throtle do they lock up causing the rear to try and come around.

This is the setup on my k3
Front
60w oil
20 degree hubs
B block upper and lower
Blue Springs
Ackerman in center hole
Inside hole on upper row of shock tower
Inside hole on arm
Thick sway bar
5000w diff oil
1 degree camber
Ride height universals slightly above level
1 degree toe out

Center
7000w diff oil
Brakes 60front 40 rear slight drag when off throttle just enough to feel some resistance if I pull the throttle at all it releases brakes
Aluminum Cassie braces
46t spur gear
Cradock anti lock brakes

Rear
40w oil
3 degree anti squat
3 degree toe
Shock in lower inside hole on tower
Shock on inside hole of arm
Front universals in rear
Camber link in bottom inside hole on tower
Camber link in outside hole on hub
Hub mount lower hole
Stock sway bar
1000w diff oil
Ride height universals level

Clutch
3 shoe carbon
1.0 springs
13 tooth bell

The car is very predictable, jumps nice and has very good steering. Some large bumps make the rear end jump up but nothing that is out of control. This set up likes to be driven aggressively.

HOW DO YOU CORRECTLY ADJUST BRAKES I'VE ADJUSTED THEM WITH M8 BUT HTEY SEEM LIKE THEY DON'T GRAB VERY HARD BUT I THINK THERE ON ALITTLE LIKE YOU SAID IN PREVIOUS POST,THE SET UP IS CLOSE TO WHAT YOU HAVE THERE

first set your servo so it is centerd then adjust the collars the top collar is rear brake the bottom is front. I generaly set the top so the spring is not loose but not compressed. the bottom I set with yhe spring just slightly compressed. hard to explain expriment with a few settings till you find one you like.

I WAS READING YOUR SETTINGS ON HERE
HOW TO GET 1 DEGREE CAMBER ON FRONT AND 1 DEGREE TOE AND ADJUST RIDE HEIGHT HOW DO YOU DO THAT AND MEASURE THAT?
ALSO IN THE REAR 3 DEGREE TOE YOU HAVE. BUT I HAVE 2.5 AND WHAT THE CHAMBER LINK IN THE REAR ?
tHATS WHAT IS NOT ADJUSTED SO i NEED TO DO THAT AND I'M SURE THAT WILL HELP FAR AS HANDLING

rpm makes a good tool for camber.
here is a link

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXEV13&P=ML

hudy makes a nice setup station but it is very expensive it is nice but not realy nessasary.

to change the rear toe just swap out the plastic holder.
2.5 also works well so do not rush to change it.

also make only one change at a time so you can tell if it fixes the problem.
here is a link for a blank set up sheet it is a good idea to write down how each change affects the car.

http://www.nitrocross.com/setup.htm

THANKS
HOW DO I ADJUST RIDE HEIGHT?
ALSO BASICALLY I ADJUST THE TURNBUCKLES TO GET MY DEGREE + OR - CORRECT? SO I CAN ADJUST THOSE TILL IT FEELS RIGHT CORRECT? BOTH ON ALL ARMS (TURNBUCKLES) ?
JON

to adjust ride height add or remove spring clips on your shocks.

to adjust camber use the turnbuckles. adjust them the same amount on both sides.

be carefull though 1 degree is very little it is easy to go to far. you probably do not want to go more than 3 degrees in either directon. try a small change then drive it around to see how it feels.