Team C Racing TC02C Evo 2wd Mid Motor Buggy Thread
10-14-2014, 10:50 PM
#1
Team C Racing TC02C Evo 2wd Mid Motor Buggy Thread
I've created this thread to discuss, collect and share all available information for those interested in, or running the TC02C Evo, Team C's newest release to the 1/10th scale market.
This post will be updated as often as new information is available, be sure to check it often.
Manufacturer Link
Quick Overview
Taken from Redrc.net
Team C Racing introduces the TC02C Evo mid motor 2WD buggy kit. Based on the proven TC02C, the Evo variant received a new 8mm longer composite chassis, 12mm big bore aluminium shock absorbers, a front aluminium arm mount, and a rear anti-roll bar. The new design chassis is designed for the use with shorty, saddle pack or square pack LiPo battery packs while the 4-gear transmission is equipped with a heavy duty gear differential and a machined aluminium heatsink motor plate. The kit is topped off by a new cab forward bodyshell.
Features
Next generation reinforced front chassis plate
8mm Longer Chassis
New anodized aluminum CNC motor plate
Saddle Pack Battery Plate
12mm Big Bore Hard Anodized Shocks
New sealed gear diff
Adjustable slipper clutch
80T Kevlar Spur gear
Rear Swaybar
Aluminum Front Arm Mount
New Cab Forward Body
New Gear Cover Design
Dimensions
Length: 410mm
Width: 250mm
Height: 150mm
Stock Photos
Documents
Manual
Parts List
Exploded View
Setup Sheets
Blank (non editable)
Blank (editable)
Carpet
Factory Option/Upgrade Parts
TU0213 Brass Front Arm Mount - 30g
TU0216 Slipper Pad V2
TU0218 Servo Saver
TU0219 C-Hub 25 Degree
TU0220 C-Hub 30 Degree
TU0224 Servo Mount
TU0240 Carbon Front Shock Tower
TU0248 Front Castle Block
TU0259 28T POM Idler Gear
TU0274 Rear Arm Mount 3.5/4 Degree
TU0422 Rear Block
TU0434 Rear Hub
TU0431 Rear Hub +1 degree
TU0432 Roll Bar Set
TU0275 Aluminium Steering Knuckle
TU0269 Aluminium Rear Arm Mount
TU0273 Aluminium Shock Tower Mount
Aftermarket Option/Upgrade Parts
RCShox 2 Stage pistons
RCShox Garodisc Slipper Pads
Bugle Boy Racing Gear Cover
Bugle Boy Racing Front Bumper (2.3mm)
Bugle Boy Racing Front Bumper (3.2mm)
Avid Flex Kit Bearing Kit
Team KNK Stainless Hardware Kit
Inside Line Racing Carbon Fibre Front Shock Tower
Inside Line Racing Carbon Lipo Strap
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Inside Line Racing Carbon Fibre T-Plate
Inside Line Racing Carbon Fibre T-Plate w/RF Hanger
Build/Tuning Tips
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Can I convert my Rear Motor TC02 Evo to the TC02C Evo?
A: Yes but additional parts are required if you want to run kit spec. Parts needed are as follows:
TU0249 - TC02C Evo Conversion Kit
T02204 - Rear Arm Mount
T04008 - Rear Arm
TR4011 - Rear Hubs
T02183 - Rear Bearing Collar
T02143 - Rear Hex
T02262 - Rear Hex Pin
T02263 - 65mm Rear CVD
TR4046 - 2.5x30mm Arm Pin
TU0258 x 2 - Idler Gear (use TU0259 for POM or T02001 plastic)
T02051 - Idler Gear Shaft
T02211 - 5x7 Top Shaft Spacer
T02255 - 3x40 Turnbuckle
TU0266-7 Shock Caps and Spring Cups w/bleeder screws
BS327 - M3x27mm screw
If you want to continue using your existing arms and CVDs, only the items highlighted in bold from the list above are needed
Q: What is needed to run a ball diff in this vehicle?
A: The best solution at the moment would be to run a ball diff assembly from a B5 or B5M. The out drives have a seat for the bearings that is approximately the same width as the Team C gear diff. There is a very small amount of play once it's installed in the gear box but it's nothing some shimming can't fix. I used the entire ball diff including hardware, rings and balls.
Stay tuned, more to come.
This post will be updated as often as new information is available, be sure to check it often.
Manufacturer Link
Quick Overview
Taken from Redrc.net
Team C Racing introduces the TC02C Evo mid motor 2WD buggy kit. Based on the proven TC02C, the Evo variant received a new 8mm longer composite chassis, 12mm big bore aluminium shock absorbers, a front aluminium arm mount, and a rear anti-roll bar. The new design chassis is designed for the use with shorty, saddle pack or square pack LiPo battery packs while the 4-gear transmission is equipped with a heavy duty gear differential and a machined aluminium heatsink motor plate. The kit is topped off by a new cab forward bodyshell.
Features
Next generation reinforced front chassis plate
8mm Longer Chassis
New anodized aluminum CNC motor plate
Saddle Pack Battery Plate
12mm Big Bore Hard Anodized Shocks
New sealed gear diff
Adjustable slipper clutch
80T Kevlar Spur gear
Rear Swaybar
Aluminum Front Arm Mount
New Cab Forward Body
New Gear Cover Design
Dimensions
Length: 410mm
Width: 250mm
Height: 150mm
Stock Photos
Documents
Manual
Parts List
Exploded View
Setup Sheets
Blank (non editable)
Blank (editable)
Carpet
Factory Option/Upgrade Parts
TU0213 Brass Front Arm Mount - 30g
TU0216 Slipper Pad V2
TU0218 Servo Saver
TU0219 C-Hub 25 Degree
TU0220 C-Hub 30 Degree
TU0224 Servo Mount
TU0240 Carbon Front Shock Tower
TU0248 Front Castle Block
TU0259 28T POM Idler Gear
TU0274 Rear Arm Mount 3.5/4 Degree
TU0422 Rear Block
TU0434 Rear Hub
TU0431 Rear Hub +1 degree
TU0432 Roll Bar Set
TU0275 Aluminium Steering Knuckle
TU0269 Aluminium Rear Arm Mount
TU0273 Aluminium Shock Tower Mount
Aftermarket Option/Upgrade Parts
RCShox 2 Stage pistons
RCShox Garodisc Slipper Pads
Bugle Boy Racing Gear Cover
Bugle Boy Racing Front Bumper (2.3mm)
Bugle Boy Racing Front Bumper (3.2mm)
Avid Flex Kit Bearing Kit
Team KNK Stainless Hardware Kit
Inside Line Racing Carbon Fibre Front Shock Tower
Inside Line Racing Carbon Lipo Strap
Inside Line Racing Carbon Fibre T-Plate
Inside Line Racing Carbon Fibre T-Plate w/RF Hanger
Build/Tuning Tips
Originally Posted by RoyJ
- My 21T motor pinion did not want to mesh completely with the 80T spur, so I did have to machine/Dremel the motor plate's adjustment slots to be 2.5-to-3mm longer. Now I can slide the motor closer to the spur, and can even use the 75T or 77T option spurs.
- The Gear Differential seemed a little notchy after the screws were tightened down. I added an extra diff gasket #T02153 which made the diff smooth as butter, even with 3Kwt oil. After trying 700wt, then 2K and 3K, I have returned to 1K and see no need to change it in most track conditions. It now feels much like a brand new fully greased ball-diff run extremely loose, but with no chance of slip/barking. With the extra gasket in the diff, there is no more excess mechanical friction from the overtightened internal mesh, so the diff oil stays cleaner longer, which will extend maintenance intervals.
The included inserts for TU0269 allow you to adjust toe-in and anti-squat. Toe is adjusted laterally, and anti-squat vertically.
Toe Adjustment:
*The inside-dot insert position provides 1 degrees of toe-in, for less cornering stability; best for carpet or high-traction conditions, where more corner rotation is needed.
*The center-dot insert position provides a stock position of 2 degrees of toe-in.
*The outside-dot insert position provides 3 degrees of toe-in, for more stability while braking and cornering; best for loose track conditions. (If used with +1deg rear hubs, the car can become twitchy due to too much toe-in.)
Anti-Squat Adjustment:
*When the inserts dot is in the upper position, regardless of toe angle, it provides 1 degree of anti-squat, which is best for bumpy-grippy conditions.
*When the insert dot is in the middle position, regardless of the toe angle, it provides 2 degrees of anti-squat, the stock position.
*When the insert dot is in the lower position, regardless of toe angle, it provides the maximum 3 degrees of anti-squat, which is best for super-smooth, high-grip or carpet conditions, where wheelies can be too easy due to high rear grip.
Toe Adjustment:
*The inside-dot insert position provides 1 degrees of toe-in, for less cornering stability; best for carpet or high-traction conditions, where more corner rotation is needed.
*The center-dot insert position provides a stock position of 2 degrees of toe-in.
*The outside-dot insert position provides 3 degrees of toe-in, for more stability while braking and cornering; best for loose track conditions. (If used with +1deg rear hubs, the car can become twitchy due to too much toe-in.)
Anti-Squat Adjustment:
*When the inserts dot is in the upper position, regardless of toe angle, it provides 1 degree of anti-squat, which is best for bumpy-grippy conditions.
*When the insert dot is in the middle position, regardless of the toe angle, it provides 2 degrees of anti-squat, the stock position.
*When the insert dot is in the lower position, regardless of toe angle, it provides the maximum 3 degrees of anti-squat, which is best for super-smooth, high-grip or carpet conditions, where wheelies can be too easy due to high rear grip.
Q: Can I convert my Rear Motor TC02 Evo to the TC02C Evo?
A: Yes but additional parts are required if you want to run kit spec. Parts needed are as follows:
TU0249 - TC02C Evo Conversion Kit
T02204 - Rear Arm Mount
T04008 - Rear Arm
TR4011 - Rear Hubs
T02183 - Rear Bearing Collar
T02143 - Rear Hex
T02262 - Rear Hex Pin
T02263 - 65mm Rear CVD
TR4046 - 2.5x30mm Arm Pin
TU0258 x 2 - Idler Gear (use TU0259 for POM or T02001 plastic)
T02051 - Idler Gear Shaft
T02211 - 5x7 Top Shaft Spacer
T02255 - 3x40 Turnbuckle
TU0266-7 Shock Caps and Spring Cups w/bleeder screws
BS327 - M3x27mm screw
If you want to continue using your existing arms and CVDs, only the items highlighted in bold from the list above are needed
Q: What is needed to run a ball diff in this vehicle?
A: The best solution at the moment would be to run a ball diff assembly from a B5 or B5M. The out drives have a seat for the bearings that is approximately the same width as the Team C gear diff. There is a very small amount of play once it's installed in the gear box but it's nothing some shimming can't fix. I used the entire ball diff including hardware, rings and balls.
Stay tuned, more to come.
Last edited by IntegraMark; 07-17-2015 at 05:09 PM.
10-15-2014, 09:02 PM
#2
Thanks for starting this thread Mark. I just finished building mine tonight. This weekend I will be heading to Warren Michigan t o RC Clubhouse to do some testing Friday and race Saturday. I will update with my findings.
For the meantime here are a couple pics of the buggy after it was built.
For the meantime here are a couple pics of the buggy after it was built.
10-16-2014, 06:52 AM
#3
Tech Fanatic
This new kit uses the little c clips again never lost one on the Switchback, but come on technology
10-16-2014, 07:26 AM
#4
I know many do not like the C Clips. To me it doesn't really matter, I have yet to have 1 issue relating to them. I would suggest that if you have have a situation where one was worn out or fell off it was human error during removal, installation that was the cause.
If you damaged one while racing............ well I don't think I need to wade into that one.....
If you damaged one while racing............ well I don't think I need to wade into that one.....
10-16-2014, 10:02 AM
#5
I've never had issues with them either. If someone is constantly replacing broken parts that involve removing and reinstalling the e-clips, then I think the e-clips should be the least of their worries.
I don't remember the last time I broke a front arm but I spent more time looking for a spare in my pit bag than I did replacing it. the e-clips aren't as bad as everyone make them seem.
I don't remember the last time I broke a front arm but I spent more time looking for a spare in my pit bag than I did replacing it. the e-clips aren't as bad as everyone make them seem.
10-16-2014, 11:35 AM
#6
Tech Addict
iTrader: (16)
I've never had issues with them either. If someone is constantly replacing broken parts that involve removing and reinstalling the e-clips, then I think the e-clips should be the least of their worries.
I don't remember the last time I broke a front arm but I spent more time looking for a spare in my pit bag than I did replacing it. the e-clips aren't as bad as everyone make them seem.
I don't remember the last time I broke a front arm but I spent more time looking for a spare in my pit bag than I did replacing it. the e-clips aren't as bad as everyone make them seem.
10-16-2014, 11:56 AM
#7
Tech Fanatic
10-16-2014, 02:23 PM
#8
Is it difficult to find parts for Team C?
10-16-2014, 03:37 PM
#9
No it is not. Late 2013 early 2014 HRP Distribution took on Team C on as the North American Distributor. Many/most stores deal with HRP and can order anything you need/want. There are also lots of online shops selling them.
One place that always comes to mind is Evo Hobbies. Excellent service from Jeff and company. Currently he has a SUPER SALE on. Prices are lower than what Team C sponsored drivers can buy for.
Lots of overseas online sellers too but when you have service and stock like Evo Hobbies why go elsewhere. Happy to answer any questions you might have about the brand.
Check it out.
http://evohobbies.com/
One place that always comes to mind is Evo Hobbies. Excellent service from Jeff and company. Currently he has a SUPER SALE on. Prices are lower than what Team C sponsored drivers can buy for.
Lots of overseas online sellers too but when you have service and stock like Evo Hobbies why go elsewhere. Happy to answer any questions you might have about the brand.
Check it out.
http://evohobbies.com/
10-16-2014, 04:25 PM
#10
holy crap...they have it on sale for 99 bucks and free shipping!
http://evohobbies.com/rc-car-truck-k...2wd-buggy.html
http://evohobbies.com/rc-car-truck-k...2wd-buggy.html
10-16-2014, 04:27 PM
#11
...for 99 bucks I dont think you can go wrong...
10-16-2014, 05:18 PM
#12
10-16-2014, 06:36 PM
#15
Tech Regular
The reason I bought this buggy over the B5 is the plastic chassis...I'll take all the flex.