lolagt

The Senton has different side guards(?) screwed to the side of the chassis to accept the cage parts. Arms are not the same part number so slightly different width meaning links are likely different width too.
Chassis part number is the same and just about every other part is the same so a conversion wouldn't be too bad using ebay parts. But I'd just buy the Senton. It would be great fun though not very fair running it against regular SCTs though.

starryalley

Well today I ran my new typhon for the second time, still on 4s/14T. This time I went to my local track for the first time. The track is a free, outdoor, loose dirt dry track with a lot of jumps and turns and well suited for any sized offroad vehicle. (I mainly saw 1/8 buggies)

Within 10 minutes, I managed to break the lower plastic part on the rear shock due to jumps right on the back of it for more than 3 times. The jump is merely less than 1 meter but since it's my first time on a track, I used too much throttle and ended up flying and smashing hard. About 2/3 of my jumps are not on the right side up. So I think the breakage is expected. Already ordered the parts.



Since I've never run on a track like this, my first impression was that the stock tire didn't seem too suited for the loose dirt. It drifted a lot and I can't even turn smoothly. Well, I am really inexperienced but will it help if I use a tire specific for loose dry loamy track? For example, duratrax shotgun C3 is good for loose and hard packed track: http://www.duratrax.com/tires/usage_chart.html. Will it have much better grip than the stock tires? Thanks.

lolagt

Main problem with the stock dboots tires are the foam inserts, they are so flimsy and give no support, and then the tires have no chance to get a bite on anything much but short grass.

I switched out to some cheap AKA Cityblocks with firm black inserts and even though they were hard compound the difference was noticed right off at my track that is hardpan with a dusty layer on top.

Shock ends are an uncommon part to break. However, nothing is bullet proof if one keeps landing on anything that isn't the tires. Any buggy regardless of manufacture can not take it over and over(I've seen many top 'unbreakable' buggies and truggies in pieces in my relatively new endeavor). Real 1/8 tracks are going to be a steep learning curve. Take the hit to ego and learn to jump by avoiding doubling and trying the triples or keep replacing parts, some will get expensive.

ZW99GT

I have a Senton (old version stock BLX180 powerplant) and I've had a lot of fun with it at our indoor offroad track. It caters mostly to 1/8 buggy and the Senton drives somewhat similar to one. A HEAVY ONE. I'm sure the Typhon is heavy as well compared to other big name buggy kits out there, seeing as it's nearly the same vehicle. It's held up incredibly well. I had never even see an offroad RC track the first time I ran the truck there, it's logged hundreds of laps (and almost that many crashes) over the last several weeks and I've gotten pretty decent with it. The ONLY thing I've broken is a front lower A-Arm a week ago, which allowed the ball to pull out.

Unfortunately, as I step into the slightly more competitive side of this stuff, I feel like it's in no man's land on the race track, being twice as heavy as your traditional short course truck, and hardly capable of keeping up with a proper 1/8 buggy with similar drivers. If are a racing/track set-up expert, you will likely have very different results than I. I've moved on to a pair of Mugen MBX ECO buggies and will likely retire the Senton to bashing duties while looking for a proper lightweight SCT for the track. For a 6s capable basher, that can get you around the track on 4s and still have a blast, it's a great great truck.

maslin

iTrader: (1)

Learn how to set droop. Your shocks are probably limiting your travel... that's bad.

Find a setup sheet for the dex8 and copy that, droop, ride height, and toe mostly. Front camber isn't adjustable on the Arrmas, so don't worry about that.

The droop screw hitting the chassis should be what stops your arms, if you undo the top of your shocks they should extend past the mount.

104mm front, 126mm rear works well for me. Measure from the center of the top stud to the center of the bottom pin with the weight off the tires. That's what the little dimple is for, measuring droop.

ob1n

iTrader: (4)

I've also been looking at the Team Durango DESC10 but I am not sure if my driving skills are up to par for such a serious machine.

I guess I thought about the Senton/Typhon conversion mainly for the idea of parts interchangeability. I already have too many vehicles to supply parts for. If I were actually good at driving and money were no object, I'd buy a Losi SCT.

Personally I like the idea of a heavier SCT when the inevitable bump-n-grind starts happening. As they say, "Bumpin is racin". I think I might go the route of a convert Typhon since my track doesn't have rules. Besides, during indoor season i could convert the other Typhon from buggy to SCT and my other son or daughter could run a SCT as well. Thanks for the comments everyone

ob1n

iTrader: (4)

One more quick question....anybody else warranty a BLX180 ESC lately? I heard that they are handing out 185s in their place. I warranted mine last month and received another 180

starryalley

Thanks for all the answers..

One question: I read somewhere that if a vehicle is getting nose down issue in a jump it could be due to drag brake. Is there forward drag brake in this v2 typhon ESC?

I'm still waiting for the shock end plastic part to arrive so I won't be practicing until next week I guess. Just want to avoid landing on the wrong side again. I will definitely go slow. It's really a steep learning curve on the real 1/8 outdoor track... can't seem to finish the loop.

daedalus

iTrader: (4)

No forward drag brake on the v2 ESC. Wasn't even aware that was a thing... If you're landing nose down either give it throttle or possibly adjust the actual drag brake down to give it less nose-down pull when you let off the throttle in the air IMO.

lolagt

Some ESCs do have such a setting, on the Tekin it is called push limiting, I think, as you hit a jump and let off the push gives a short shot of throttle to help keep the back end down, it is fully adjustable, but it won't save you if you aren't paying attention.

As far as drag brake, you probably want that off until you really get some time driving, it seems like such a handy thing....

It isn't too hard to dial out that back end getting happy if it is a constant problem, laying the rear shocks down, softening the rear, shock oil can be lightened in the rear also. You generally want the back end softer anyway.

TRF415boy

This function was created for on road stock racing, it shouldn't be used for Off Road.

If your rear end is kicking up I'd look at my ride height, I found that in many cases raising the front end can solve this issue.

Typically I run 27 front 29 rear on 1/8 off road, sometimes 28 front.

lolagt

.

Nope, that is plain wrong. People will use whatever setting if it gives an advantage. It doesn't matter what one is driving. That is why innovators and folks that ignore what others say is wrong win or go faster.

TRF415boy

I love getting told that I'm plain wrong, especially when I know as a Tekin team driver for over a decade, that I'm correct.

Once again, the push control is not made for off road racing. Use your throttle finger to control pitch.

lolagt

I think you should go tell everyone in the world that they are setting up their ESCs wrong. Then get back to me on that.

Actually, you can skip that last part.

2stroketim

^^^ This dude................