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Old 11-10-2015, 07:43 AM
  #2446  
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Ever consider swapping the 8.5 for a 13.5 or 17.5? I bet that's worth a second a lap. I'm fairly experienced and I don't feel like I could adequately make use of that much motor. Just a thought. Personally, 13.5 is like mod to me but then again, I'm the king of stock. I even run a 13.5 in my 4x4 buggy.
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Old 11-10-2015, 08:26 AM
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At this point changing motors is not an option, as I race on a budget, but I might try turning the power down in the ESC as it has 9 settings and I have it on the highest. would be worth a try and don't take a min. to change.
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Old 11-10-2015, 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Braxamus
At this point changing motors is not an option, as I race on a budget, but I might try turning the power down in the ESC as it has 9 settings and I have it on the highest. would be worth a try and don't take a min. to change.
I think the best thing to do is download a help guide or the rccheatsheets app and go to your track and make one change and try it out. If you can, make the change huge so you can see what it does. Then back it off little by little until you see the best case scenario for your driving style. I know making little changes are hard to feel that is why I started to make huge changes on practice days just to see what that change was all about. You could easily spend a full track day making one change at a time and seeing how it changes your car. The nice thing is when you feel your car a certain way down the line you can make that change you have experienced before. Some times you may need something like on power steering and two ways to get there but one is better and easier for yourself, your car and your set-up.

I change my car as little as possible and blame more things on my driving but when I need a change I start with items that I know about and work for me.

The pros are all fast and have different set-ups amongst themselves which tells you that there are two ways to skin a cat.
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Old 11-10-2015, 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Braxamus
I agree with both of you guys ^^ as I like to also know what the changes do when someone tells me to do it, so that I actually learn something. It is hard to actually find good info as everyone you talk to has a different way to do stuff, and it's hard to filter out the good from bad, as well as figuring out that the 2 different things 2 guys told you are actually the same thing just different ways of getting there. Saturday was a frustrating day as they combined our class with another during practice to save some time and I had a guy try to drive thru me with a SCT and broke a front arm and my steering and I was just willing to try whatever.
What I am going to do before next race is remove all lead I added (not sure of the size will look tonight), will get a different set of tires as well should I remove the Brass D mount as well and go totally stock and start over from there? all help is greatly appreciated and just looking for honest feedback and answers and not going to get into it with anyone over info they give as I am just trying to figure this out.
That's the problem when you first start out, heck I've been racing almost 9 years and I learn something every time I am at the track! As a new racer the issue is knowing exactly what your car or truck isn't doing right. I would let a local fast guy drive it and get their opinions first. As far as setups, the kit setup is a great starting point but for me the Rivkin setup is amazing! Leave the brass and just remove the lead for starters. Weight is just a bandaid for many problems. Getting the true problem fixed is important. Tires generally are about 90% of a proper setup. Get the right tires on the truck and you'd be amazed!
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Old 11-10-2015, 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by thecman26
Get the right tires on the truck and you'd be amazed!
+1 and easy to see and copy
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Old 11-10-2015, 03:12 PM
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Thanks for all the responses it is appreciated, I raced custom works sprint cars and late models for years, but this is a whole other monster.
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Old 11-10-2015, 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Braxamus
Thanks for all the responses it is appreciated, I raced custom works sprint cars and late models for years, but this is a whole other monster.
Yes indeed, a whole other can of worms!
That's why we're here to help each other and maybe get a lil help ourselves.
I am sure you will get that truck of yours dialed soon enough! If dialing in a driver was that easy!
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Old 11-11-2015, 10:39 AM
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Hey Guys,
I know some people have asked on here about what people are running for packs in their trucks. I have been doing some testing to see which pack I like better and here is what I thought. My local track is a medium grip indoor clay track. My truck is a 13.5 super stock truck with the kit setup (works best for me). Packs used: Orion Shorty & Orion Saddles

Shorty Pack: Truck is very quick and agile with the pack. Moving the pack to the rear will give you more rear grip. The truck seems to float around the track and does not seem to be held into the track if you get what I mean? The truck jumps fine, but jumps uneven and kind of unbalanced. Requires more throttle/brake input for adjustments in the air. Lap times are fast, but inconsistent due to the quirky/squirrely feel of the truck.

Saddle Pack: The truck is more tame with the saddle packs. It does not feel jerky or squirrely going around the track. Steering is still quick and the truck maneuvers through the tight turns with ease. Going around the track, the truck seems hooked into the layout and really flows with the track due to the extra weight of the pack. I have not noticed any difference moving the saddles forward or rear. The truck feels like it jumps more evenly and lands smoother. I have gotten compliments from other racers at the track on how smooth and even the truck jumps. With the added weight there is a slight push in the steering especially through s-turns at our track. But it is slight and you can adjust your driving style to curb this.

I have tried a square pack in the truck, but it handles very similar to saddles. My saddles are about 20 grams lighter than the square Reedy packs I tried. Overall, I feel the truck performs the best with saddle packs than with the shorty packs. I use the Orion 100c 5800mah saddles and they give me all the punch I need for super stock truck.

Hope this helps some of you decide on packs.
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Old 11-11-2015, 01:50 PM
  #2454  
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has anyone been running the truck with more than 1degree anti squat?
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Old 11-11-2015, 06:17 PM
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I prefer a shorty.....I found the truck flat and lethargic with a square. Im currently running a boosted 7.5 on the same track and its very good. Truggydude I'm not sure your name but maybe we can compare set ups.
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Old 11-11-2015, 07:14 PM
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Protek makes a 4900mah square pack and I like the way makes my truck feel. The 4900 is not worlds heavier than the shorties everybody uses but the weigh seems distributed a little better.
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Old 11-11-2015, 07:19 PM
  #2457  
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Originally Posted by DIRT DIGGER
has anyone been running the truck with more than 1degree anti squat?
I raced a big event over the summer and the track was a little rough so I tried 3/2 and it made my truck feel weird turning and braking. I'll never do that again with any of my B series cars. None of them liked it. When traction is super high 2.5/1 is ok but I'll never run more than 1 degree of anti squat again. No bueno for me.
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Old 11-12-2015, 06:03 AM
  #2458  
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Originally Posted by QDRHRSE
I raced a big event over the summer and the track was a little rough so I tried 3/2 and it made my truck feel weird turning and braking. I'll never do that again with any of my B series cars. None of them liked it. When traction is super high 2.5/1 is ok but I'll never run more than 1 degree of anti squat again. No bueno for me.
Going more then 1 degree anti-squat is a total no Bueno in the B series cars for me as well. I tried it as well and it was terrible. If anything I would like to try no anti-squat of any kind.
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Old 11-12-2015, 08:00 AM
  #2459  
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Originally Posted by kerby
I prefer a shorty.....I found the truck flat and lethargic with a square. Im currently running a boosted 7.5 on the same track and its very good. Truggydude I'm not sure your name but maybe we can compare set ups.
My name is Steven Ill be at BFG Saturday for practice. Going to try the three gear transmission and see how I like it. Don't be a afraid to say howdy. My truck is bright blue and fluorescent yellow.
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Old 11-12-2015, 08:27 AM
  #2460  
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1
Going more then 1 degree anti-squat is a total no Bueno in the B series cars for me as well. I tried it as well and it was terrible. If anything I would like to try no anti-squat of any kind.
try shimming the C block. I ran 0 anit squat with my centros and it worked great on a smooth track. The only reason that I haven't tried it on the new cars is that I don't know how much I'd need to raise the C block.
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