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Old 04-22-2015, 12:54 PM   #1441
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I changed all the plastic ball stud washers out for 1mm aluminum washers just to prevent that. The theory is that under a hard hit the plastic Will give and let the stud bend or break. The aluminum washers don't give. A small dab of blue loctite and an occasional recheck keeps them tight.
Agreed... I run all alum spacers with loctite. So were 2 of the 3 that broke.
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Old 04-22-2015, 01:27 PM   #1442
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Last night there were five T5 at the track. Three of them broke the rear inner ball stud flush with the mount. I'm not sure what kind of hit they took but the track layout is really smooth with no real big jumps. It just seemed odd to me. I wonder if there has been a heat treating error and they are too brittle. I noticed on some of the pro setup sheets that they run +2mm aluminum spacer with 1mm plastic under the ball stud. Anyone know why the plastic one? I assume the plastic acts like loctite under compression??

Here's the track layout. Every truck is a T5M
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HVce...ature=youtu.be
That rear stud likes to rattle loose without lock tight or when the threads are galled. I have that rear mount from the kit still if you or a buddy needs it, just pay shipping.
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Old 04-22-2015, 02:14 PM   #1443
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That rear stud likes to rattle loose without lock tight or when the threads are galled. I have that rear mount from the kit still if you or a buddy needs it, just pay shipping.
OK thank you! I'll let you know if they need it.... A little more info on the broken ball stud issue. One was hit during practice by an 1/8 scale buggy and the other didn't use any thread lock. I think the key is to use blue loctite and make sure the stay tight while using alum spacers
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Old 04-22-2015, 05:40 PM   #1444
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OK thank you! I'll let you know if they need it.... A little more info on the broken ball stud issue. One was hit during practice by an 1/8 scale buggy and the other didn't use any thread lock. I think the key is to use blue loctite and make sure the stay tight while using alum spacers
Bart, I'd say most all issues are due to it backing out just slightly and as soon as you take an off kilter landing it'll snap. Lots of weight and force from trucks. Or the usual Ebuggy abuse we get at jcp lol.

The new layout looks pretty good for being fresh. This weekend should be fun!
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Old 04-22-2015, 06:00 PM   #1445
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Anybody know the relation between the stock rear hubs and the #91548 Factory Team 0' Aluminum hubs?

The Thielke setup sheet doesn't include that in the Rear Hub Link settings.
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Old 04-22-2015, 06:11 PM   #1446
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I'd have to look to be certain but the FT hubs are 3mm lower....on my buggy I use the outside rear hole. I think its the same on the Truck.
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Old 04-22-2015, 06:50 PM   #1447
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Bart, I'd say most all issues are due to it backing out just slightly and as soon as you take an off kilter landing it'll snap. Lots of weight and force from trucks. Or the usual Ebuggy abuse we get at jcp lol.

The new layout looks pretty good for being fresh. This weekend should be fun!
I have to agree with you about them backing out. I just thought it was odd that 3 broke in one night. But I also assumed everyone used loctite on them and the hubs lol.

The track was very nice for being green (thanks to Brad for blowing it off after every round). It should only get better. I don't think I'll make it this weekend. My son has a double header baseball game on Sat.... BUT the forecast is not looking good for b-ball .. Good luck to you!
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Old 04-22-2015, 07:17 PM   #1448
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Basic setup question because I am hearing different things.

Springs:

Stiffer Front - The car has less front traction, and less steering. It's harder to get the car to turn, the turn radius is bigger and the car has a lot less steering exiting corners.
The car will jump better, and maybe a little further.
On very high-grip tracks, it's usually beneficial to stiffen the front, even more than the rear. It just makes the car easier to drive, and faster.

Softer Front - The car has more steering, especially in the middle part and the exit of the corner.
Front springs that are too soft can make the car hook and spin, and they can also make it react sluggishly.

~~~~~~~~~~

I needed more steering on everything but low speed corners. I tried softer springs in the front and had a good improvement on medium speed corners ,but only a little on high speed corners.

So was going to softer springs in front the wrong idea?

The track is outdoor dirt and smooth but uneven in spots, not blue groove, low grip out of groove and medium in groove.
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Old 04-22-2015, 08:05 PM   #1449
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You can get more middle/exit steering by stiffening up the rear as well. So, try going back to where you started but make the rear stiffer. Sounds like exactly what you are looking for.
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Old 04-22-2015, 09:09 PM   #1450
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I'd have to look to be certain but the FT hubs are 3mm lower....on my buggy I use the outside rear hole. I think its the same on the Truck.
3mm under is up position and 1mm under is down. I think rear inside is kit setup setup but it may be inside front for kit setup but +3 under stud.
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Old 04-23-2015, 07:08 AM   #1451
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Really impressed with the truck outdoors on a medium grip track. I finally settled on a modified motor that has a good power band, and the truck is just very predictable and quick.
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Old 04-23-2015, 09:13 AM   #1452
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You can get more middle/exit steering by stiffening up the rear as well. So, try going back to where you started but make the rear stiffer. Sounds like exactly what you are looking for.
I like this idea, because one of the side effects to softer front springs was that is wasn't jumping predictably anymore. It must have been right on the cliff, one lap it was normal and flat in the air the next it would be nose up or worse shoot to an angle as if it bottomed out. I raised the ride height 1mm to try to compensate.

I will go back to the original ride height, back to Blue springs on the front and one to two steps stiffer spring in the rear. Thanks
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Old 04-23-2015, 10:08 AM   #1453
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I like this idea, because one of the side effects to softer front springs was that is wasn't jumping predictably anymore. It must have been right on the cliff, one lap it was normal and flat in the air the next it would be nose up or worse shoot to an angle as if it bottomed out. I raised the ride height 1mm to try to compensate.

I will go back to the original ride height, back to Blue springs on the front and one to two steps stiffer spring in the rear. Thanks
I had the same issue with a lack of middle/exit steering on a carpet track (especially on 180's). The two things that helped me were going to stiffer rear springs and using the 0 degree front caster inserts.
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Old 04-23-2015, 11:21 AM   #1454
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Would you guys recommend the 3 gear for 13.5 super stock blinky class? I'd assume it's not going to hurt as there's not a lot power there.

Planning on running shorty, 3 gear and schelle slipper or slipper eliminator.
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Old 04-23-2015, 11:30 AM   #1455
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Would you guys recommend the 3 gear for 13.5 super stock blinky class? I'd assume it's not going to hurt as there's not a lot power there.

Planning on running shorty, 3 gear and schelle slipper or slipper eliminator.
Locals are running the 3 gear in mod buggy on med to high bite indoor and outdoor
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