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Old 11-14-2016, 03:32 AM   #3376
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Stock arms are plenty string I'm actually running the hard rear arms which are more brittle and haven't had any issues. As for battery the shorty seems to be the go to battery with a 25 gram brass battery weight underneath it
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Old 11-14-2016, 05:50 AM   #3377
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Thanks eper, I appreciate it
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Old 11-14-2016, 12:16 PM   #3378
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Thanks. I was thinking I just need to stiffen the truck up all the way around. I didn't know they made a front sway bar. Dose Associated make it? Or an after market company? I only knew about the rear.. what front tires are you running?
I use the Jconcepts SC10 sway bar, but I'm afraid it is not available anymore. You can find a photo on the SC5M thread (post #791 ray_munday). Some guys make the B5M rear sway bar fit in the front (SC5M thread post#1643).

On astro I use Schumacher Mini Spike or Stagger. On EOS-style carpet I use Micro spike with 2-3 rows cut on the in and outside.
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Old 11-15-2016, 03:02 AM   #3379
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Got a question for you guys, I been through about 100 pages and can't find the info. I remember seeing somewhere that the yokomo gear diff fits. What would I need to make it work is it just shimming?

I heard the associated gear diff is kinda ehh
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Old 11-15-2016, 07:29 AM   #3380
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I run indoor tracks only, med to high bite, I currently run the brass "C" mount as well as 49g. of weight flat on chassis right in front of the battery. and the 3 gear trans. since I am running the the brass C mount should I reduce the amount of weight in front of the battery ? or leave that weight there and go back to stock C mount? A little about the rest of my setup. all ball stud spacers are per manual, springs are stock, oil is 32.5 all around, front shocks are in stock position, rear shocks are top all the way in, bottom all the way out. and the rear camber links are inside stock position, and I have the 3 hole on outside all the way out. and I have removed the cross brace right behind the the servo. the truck seems to handle well in sweeper turns, and jumps nice (if I don't screw up) but in any turns of 90 deg or more the rear wants to wash out like a sprint car, I am as fast as anyone else in my class but they kill me in the corners. Other than the questions about the weights should I go back to 100% manual positions on the other stuff and start over? or do I just have something way off that is affecting the cornering? I am still kind of new to the ST and offroad racing. thanks in advance for any help and advice.
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Old 11-15-2016, 09:20 AM   #3381
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I run indoor tracks only, med to high bite, I currently run the brass "C" mount as well as 49g. of weight flat on chassis right in front of the battery. and the 3 gear trans. since I am running the the brass C mount should I reduce the amount of weight in front of the battery ? or leave that weight there and go back to stock C mount? A little about the rest of my setup. all ball stud spacers are per manual, springs are stock, oil is 32.5 all around, front shocks are in stock position, rear shocks are top all the way in, bottom all the way out. and the rear camber links are inside stock position, and I have the 3 hole on outside all the way out. and I have removed the cross brace right behind the the servo. the truck seems to handle well in sweeper turns, and jumps nice (if I don't screw up) but in any turns of 90 deg or more the rear wants to wash out like a sprint car, I am as fast as anyone else in my class but they kill me in the corners. Other than the questions about the weights should I go back to 100% manual positions on the other stuff and start over? or do I just have something way off that is affecting the cornering? I am still kind of new to the ST and offroad racing. thanks in advance for any help and advice.
Having your rear shocks all the in on top and all the way out on the arm creates an incredibly stiff shock setup. That is going to significantly hurt your forward bite. You need to try in on tower and inside on the arm. 1.7 piston 32.5 oil and 34.5mm exposed shaft.

Leave the weight where you have it. I never change the weights in my truck. Brass C block and 50g under the shorty.
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Old 11-15-2016, 09:37 AM   #3382
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If my shocks are all the way in on top and all the way out on the bottom, that as them laid down as much as possible, would that not make them as "soft" as possible, and if I had them more upright verses laid down wouldn't that be "stiffer" if I am thinking of it right.
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Old 11-15-2016, 10:01 AM   #3383
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I'd go back to the kit setup and start over. Sounds like you're not far from that other than the rear end. Are you still running 3+1 toe/anti-squat?
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Old 11-15-2016, 10:01 AM   #3384
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If my shocks are all the way in on top and all the way out on the bottom, that as them laid down as much as possible, would that not make them as "soft" as possible, and if I had them more upright verses laid down wouldn't that be "stiffer" if I am thinking of it right.
What matters is the leverage point on the arm. Moving the bottom out stiffens it up because there is less leverage. It will feel extremely stable but will give up grip and be slower in bumps.

My truck has been better in all conditions since going to inside/inside on the rear shock mounts.
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Old 11-15-2016, 10:20 AM   #3385
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Yes the Anti-squat is per kit instructions. And thanks for the explanation, I like to know what it does rather than someone just telling me do this or that, kind of helps me learn better if I understand what the effect is.
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Old 11-16-2016, 02:05 AM   #3386
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I run indoor tracks only, med to high bite, I currently run the brass "C" mount as well as 49g. of weight flat on chassis right in front of the battery. and the 3 gear trans. since I am running the the brass C mount should I reduce the amount of weight in front of the battery ? or leave that weight there and go back to stock C mount? A little about the rest of my setup. all ball stud spacers are per manual, springs are stock, oil is 32.5 all around, front shocks are in stock position, rear shocks are top all the way in, bottom all the way out. and the rear camber links are inside stock position, and I have the 3 hole on outside all the way out. and I have removed the cross brace right behind the the servo. the truck seems to handle well in sweeper turns, and jumps nice (if I don't screw up) but in any turns of 90 deg or more the rear wants to wash out like a sprint car, I am as fast as anyone else in my class but they kill me in the corners. Other than the questions about the weights should I go back to 100% manual positions on the other stuff and start over? or do I just have something way off that is affecting the cornering? I am still kind of new to the ST and offroad racing. thanks in advance for any help and advice.
I run the c and d mount brass and the big battery weight in my truck and it's really really good on clay med bite. Shock all I'm on top middle lower hole on arm
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Old 11-18-2016, 07:09 AM   #3387
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Diff Question.. Why does it say in the kit to install diff with thrust bolt head on opposite side of spur gear as opposed to the other way in the b5m buggy manual??? How much does it really matter which way it goes in?
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Old 11-18-2016, 07:22 AM   #3388
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Diff Question.. Why does it say in the kit to install diff with thrust bolt head on opposite side of spur gear as opposed to the other way in the b5m buggy manual??? How much does it really matter which way it goes in?
Are you looking at a 4 gear transmission vs a 3 gear in the B5m lite? If so you're talking about the bolt head being on the same side of the vehicle. The spurs are on opposite sides on the 4 vs 3 gear transmission.
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Old 11-18-2016, 07:27 AM   #3389
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As long as my orders come today/tomorrow I will be running mine on Sunday at bumps. I got a fresh new schelle diff and slipper coming in tomorrow hopefully. I've never owned a ball diff before and the one that is in my truck feels gritty/notchy. I would rather start off w/ a fresh one and then just fix up the other one as a back up.
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Old 11-18-2016, 07:51 AM   #3390
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As long as my orders come today/tomorrow I will be running mine on Sunday at bumps. I got a fresh new schelle diff and slipper coming in tomorrow hopefully. I've never owned a ball diff before and the one that is in my truck feels gritty/notchy. I would rather start off w/ a fresh one and then just fix up the other one as a back up.
Always good to have a smooth diff. Remember to check the diff tightness. A loose diff can really mess itself up but so can a too tight one.
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