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Old 09-03-2016, 01:57 PM   #3226
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There are a few options for waterfalls that incorporate a fan mount.
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Old 09-03-2016, 03:59 PM   #3227
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Just did back to back runs again (10 minutes each), and today I was only 2 seconds slower with the T5M, but did record the fastest lap-time with it, which surprised the heck out of me. I haven't even tried setting it up for how I drive yet, can't wait to see what it can do then! I find it pretty amazing that a truck I've got 70ish laps with, I can basically equal the times on a truck I've got thousands of laps with. That, and the T4 feels good to drive. The T5 run felt crappy.. but was nearly identical. Will be interesting when I get it feeling good

Anybody put fans on their B/T5M's? That's one reason I wanted to switch was it seems it would be rather easy to install a motor fan. I generally do 10-20 minute runs, and a fan helps greatly with motor temps.
This one is pretty nice!
https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-tr...ep3058/p469848
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Old 09-03-2016, 09:11 PM   #3228
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https://www.amainhobbies.com/prime-b...ri2001/p468572

This is a good one too. PM me, I have a few.
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Old 09-04-2016, 06:55 PM   #3229
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Thanks all. Cridd, PM sent.
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Old 09-04-2016, 07:54 PM   #3230
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Default Looking for some setup help on my T5.

Looking for some setup help on my T5. A little background: I run on high bite indoor turf, 10.5 motor, ran it for the first time today and I'm experiencing two things I'd like to correct:

1) traction rolling on power, and
2) the back end is very slippery, and kicks out with ease.

I have a ton of steering, jumping perfect, landing perfect, overall the truck is doing very well. Just need a few tweaks. I'm running basically the box setup, with lowered ride height, -2 camber F/R, a gear diff (3k fluid), Schumacher stagger rib front, Schumacher mini pin rear (aka soft red foams f/r). Soft rear sway bar, battery towards back.

My loose plan was, change the diff fluid to 4k, or 5k, was also thinking about maybe brass C and/or D blocks. Also considering changing the back tires to Schumacher vee 2's, or maybe increasing rear toe to 3.5 degrees.

I'm a little more familiar with 2WD buggies, I have my B6 setup quite well for our track, but I'm new to the T5, so hoping for some insight. I prefer to make changes and test myself, but I have a race next weekend, with no track time in between, so hoping someone could give me a few quick pointers in a pinch.

Appreciate any help!
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Old 09-04-2016, 11:01 PM   #3231
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I've never run on turf or carpet but I question why you would increase the toe. You should have tons of traction. What kind of battery and what position is it in? Maybe its too far forward. A brass C block helps. Its hard to diagnose without knowing other things like how long and high/low your rear links are, front ballstud height....you might have too much droop....the suspension might be too soft....where's your antisquat? There's a lot of things it could be. More info might be helpful in regards to the rest of your set up.
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Old 09-05-2016, 12:31 AM   #3232
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I would probably do my best to dial out some of that steering personally. Could you live with a lil less steering? That's how the B5M was when it came out, had too much steering so it felt crazy loose in the rear, we switched to flat front arms and boom it was 1000% better. So maybe stiffer front springs and softer rear springs and lower ride height perhaps?
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Old 09-05-2016, 06:16 AM   #3233
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I've never run on turf or carpet but I question why you would increase the toe. More info might be helpful in regards to the rest of your set up.
Hey there - appreciate the help. The Associated cheat sheets mentioned that increasing rear toe helps with rear traction, but 3.5 is the max it'll go, and seems extreme. It's something that's easy enough to try, just didn't get there at practice.

To answer some of the other items:

Battery - shorty 4600mah placed all the way back
Transmission - 3 gear
Ride height - ~22mm
Gear diff - 3k fluid

FRONT:
Tires / foams - Schumacher stagger / AKA red soft
Bulkhead - 25 degrees
Axle height - up
Ackerman - 2mm
Camber - -2
Springs - blue
Shock oil - 35wt
Cup offset - 9mm
Shock mount positions - tower middle, arm outer
Front link mount positions - block side (inside hole), tower side (inside hole, 3mm)

REAR:
Tires / foams - Schumacher mini pin / AKA red soft
Camber - -2
Springs - white
Shock oil - 35wt
Cup offset - 9mm
Shock mount position - tower middle, arm inner
FT rear hubs
Rear link mount positions - hub side (outside back hole, 2mm) tower side (inside hole, 3mm)
Rear link mount - -2
Rear toe / anti squat - 3/1
Sway bar - soft

I was only able to get 1 pack through it so didn't have much time to tune. I was traction rolling everywhere at first.

I cut the steering speed and throw down on the radio, that helped. I started the day with red springs in the front and blues in the back. Switched the back springs to whites, left the fronts, not much of a change. Left the whites in back, switched the fronts to blues and the truck felt more planted, but the back is loose. Dropped the ride height but the springs are floppy. Moved the battery around, farthest back was best.

So my plan to address the loose rear and traction roll is:
Change diff fluid to 4-5k
Add brass C block
Add 2 shock limiters and reduce stroke 2mm (f/r)

Would like to get the groups thoughts on this approach. I'm I way off? Any other tweaks to consider?

Appreciate the insight!

Last edited by Tobey457; 09-05-2016 at 05:05 PM.
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Old 09-05-2016, 07:24 AM   #3234
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I'd start with removing some of your ball stud washers from the inside ball studs, front and rear. This will help with the traction roll problems. Go back to the kit setup in the front, which is I think 1 washer under the stud. I don't remember what it calls for in the rear, but I'd go down to 1 washer with the mount flipped to -2 like you have it. Also, take away a little of that camber, to like -1degree. Have you tried with lighter shock fluid in the rear? 30wt or 32.5wt might help you out. These are some of the things I'd try, but just make one change at a time.
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Old 09-05-2016, 12:03 PM   #3235
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I understand that rear tow increases forward bite. My point is that on turf that should not be an issue. You shouldn't need more forward traction. You really need to get the springs figured out. If you go too stiff in the rear you gain steering but lose traction and vice versa. I would try to shorten the rear link by moving to the rear inner position on the hub and then run 2mm under the ballstuds (both the hub and camber block)....maybe even 1mm under the stud on the camber block. On dirt a lot folks run the white SC springs fr/rr and in higher traction situations Kyosho Golds fr/rr. I know both of those combos work. Do you actually measure your shock lengths? You should have a lot of adjustment on the shock eyelet. You might not need to add limiters. If you don't measure the shock lengths you should get a set of calipers and start. I didn't my first couple of years racing...it makes a big difference.

Is my assumption that turf should be crazy traction wrong?
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Old 09-05-2016, 02:31 PM   #3236
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Turf should be crazy traction
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Old 09-05-2016, 02:34 PM   #3237
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You don't mention what tires are being used, that could be the issue
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Old 09-05-2016, 06:13 PM   #3238
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Originally Posted by boucher View Post
I'd start with removing some of your ball stud washers from the inside ball studs, front and rear. This will help with the traction roll problems. Go back to the kit setup in the front, which is I think 1 washer under the stud. I don't remember what it calls for in the rear, but I'd go down to 1 washer with the mount flipped to -2 like you have it. Also, take away a little of that camber, to like -1degree. Have you tried with lighter shock fluid in the rear? 30wt or 32.5wt might help you out. These are some of the things I'd try, but just make one change at a time.
Thanks man. I'm seeing a common theme on these recommendations to reduce the inner ball stud height, so I'll definitely try that.

On your recommendation for a lighter rear shock fluid - I'm currently using 35 fluid all around, so couldn't I achieve the same results by going to like a 40 front fluid? Only reason I think about it that way is, I use 37.5f / 30r fluid in my B6, which is driving great, so I feel like maybe my fluids should be heavier on the T6 given its a heavier truck compared to the B6?
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Old 09-05-2016, 06:22 PM   #3239
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Originally Posted by QDRHRSE View Post
I understand that rear tow increases forward bite. My point is that on turf that should not be an issue. You shouldn't need more forward traction. You really need to get the springs figured out. If you go too stiff in the rear you gain steering but lose traction and vice versa. I would try to shorten the rear link by moving to the rear inner position on the hub and then run 2mm under the ballstuds (both the hub and camber block)....maybe even 1mm under the stud on the camber block. On dirt a lot folks run the white SC springs fr/rr and in higher traction situations Kyosho Golds fr/rr. I know both of those combos work. Do you actually measure your shock lengths? You should have a lot of adjustment on the shock eyelet. You might not need to add limiters. If you don't measure the shock lengths you should get a set of calipers and start. I didn't my first couple of years racing...it makes a big difference.

Is my assumption that turf should be crazy traction wrong?
Thanks man.

Definitely no lack of traction on this track, it's a setup issue. I was hurried so I didn't have a lot of time to tinker, but when I swapped to a much softer rear spring I lost all steering, so I then softened the front and got some of the steering back, but lost the back end. You're right there, I think I just need more time to keep playing with the springs.

I do measure my shock stroke with calipers, and match the rebound on each end of the car. I think I need to reduce stroke by maybe 2mm on both ends, I have a ton of droop.

Any thoughts on increasing the diff fluid from 3k to 5k?
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Old 09-05-2016, 06:26 PM   #3240
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You don't mention what tires are being used, that could be the issue
Sorry, I mentioned it in my 1st post, but not the 2nd (which has a ton more info), so I updated the 2nd post. I use AKA red soft foams all around, with Schumacher stagger ribs front, and Schumacher mini pins in the rear. Seems most of the local guys are running these.

The Schumacher Vee 2's look like they might be a little beefier for the rear, I'd like to try them also.
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