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Old 05-16-2016, 11:03 AM   #3061
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the t5m has a little more space. are you using a giant receiver?
haha. I was editing my post as you were typing. Futaba r304sb. I should be ok then. I have HW in all my cars and have the LCD program box, just wanted to stick with HW.
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Old 05-16-2016, 11:04 AM   #3062
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yeah, those futaba receivers are huge
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Old 05-17-2016, 06:21 AM   #3063
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Guys, I'm sure this has been answered a hundred times but I haven't found it....
Do I need to use green slime on x-rings? Building new shocks and didn't want to proceed without that little detail.
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Old 05-17-2016, 06:24 AM   #3064
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Guys, I'm sure this has been answered a hundred times but I haven't found it....
Do I need to use green slime on x-rings? Building new shocks and didn't want to proceed without that little detail.
I just coat them with shock oil before installing.
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Old 05-17-2016, 06:31 AM   #3065
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AS long as the answer isn't "Green slime eats x-rings."
I'm going to dip the ens of the shaft in shock oil before pushing it through the orings and bottom cap. I'd just have to cuss if I buggered up brand new parts.
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Old 05-17-2016, 06:46 AM   #3066
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No you're fine. Slime the seals and a drop of oil on the shaft. I also "build" the seal/spacer assembly on the shaft before i load it into the shock. Just slide the shaft all the way down put the pieces on there. I put a drop of oil on that before sliding it into the shock as well.
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Old 05-17-2016, 09:48 AM   #3067
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No you're fine. Slime the seals and a drop of oil on the shaft. I also "build" the seal/spacer assembly on the shaft before i load it into the shock. Just slide the shaft all the way down put the pieces on there. I put a drop of oil on that before sliding it into the shock as well.
Sounds like a nice easy way to do it. Better than stacking everything in the bottom cup.
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Old 05-17-2016, 05:40 PM   #3068
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Is there a trick to getting the oring assembly and bottom cup onto the shock body? I don't remember having issues with the kit shocks, but the kashimas are bad news for me. I'm assuming the upper hat bushing goes into the bottom of the shock body, then the oring, spacer, oring, and the other hat bushing in the shock cap. Only problem- the hat bushing doesn't fit in the shock body. And if they're not supposed to go in there, I can't compress it all enough to get the cap threads started.....
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Old 05-17-2016, 07:41 PM   #3069
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Do you need to get the clamping front axles if you want to run the aluminum hexes in front? Also, do the hexes help at all with the wheel wobble - or is that totally unrelated?
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Old 05-17-2016, 07:54 PM   #3070
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Do you need to get the clamping front axles if you want to run the aluminum hexes in front? Also, do the hexes help at all with the wheel wobble - or is that totally unrelated?
Thanks
Yes, you need the axles to run the hexes. Will they help the wobble? Probably not if its from sloppy front end parts. Doesn't effect performance though.
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Old 05-17-2016, 08:03 PM   #3071
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Yes, you need the axles to run the hexes. Will they help the wobble? Probably not if its from sloppy front end parts. Doesn't effect performance though.
cman26 - you've posted in this thread extensively. What's the single biggest upgrade you've made that, in your opinion, has improved the T5M performance the most? I realize that's a pretty broad question.
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Old 05-17-2016, 09:39 PM   #3072
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cman26 - you've posted in this thread extensively. What's the single biggest upgrade you've made that, in your opinion, has improved the T5M performance the most? I realize that's a pretty broad question.
#1 Schelle oiled ceramic gearbox bearings, easily the BEST money you can spend!
#2 3 Gear tranny
#3 JConcepts finned titanium turnbuckles
#4 Truck springs green front and white rear is what I am running
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Old 05-18-2016, 11:43 AM   #3073
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whats the part numbers for those springs?

Went to the track this past weekend with my brother was going to race but wasn't enough there to have a race it's a indoor track, was only about a dozen people showed up so we got in some real nice practice. When racing I never think of trying to control the truck in the air to help with the landing. Practicing on hitting the corners right and the jumps square and focusing on getting better on my air control seemed to make a lot of difference in my times. My brother run the TLR 22T and there was a couple of the faster TLR factory sponsored guys there and he had them drive his truck to see what they thought of his setup as he always felt something was not quite right, with a few radio adjustments thay had lap times down slightly over 21 seconds. My lap times on a good lap was just over 24 so I didn't feel to bad as it was my first season with this truck and only my second year racing off road, and racing it less than 8 times. Only thing I would like to see improve other than my driving is to get the truck to turn just a little bit tighter in some of the sharper corners. if it's a 90 deg or a sweeper it seems fine.
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Old 05-18-2016, 01:52 PM   #3074
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whats the part numbers for those springs?

Went to the track this past weekend with my brother was going to race but wasn't enough there to have a race it's a indoor track, was only about a dozen people showed up so we got in some real nice practice. When racing I never think of trying to control the truck in the air to help with the landing. Practicing on hitting the corners right and the jumps square and focusing on getting better on my air control seemed to make a lot of difference in my times. My brother run the TLR 22T and there was a couple of the faster TLR factory sponsored guys there and he had them drive his truck to see what they thought of his setup as he always felt something was not quite right, with a few radio adjustments thay had lap times down slightly over 21 seconds. My lap times on a good lap was just over 24 so I didn't feel to bad as it was my first season with this truck and only my second year racing off road, and racing it less than 8 times. Only thing I would like to see improve other than my driving is to get the truck to turn just a little bit tighter in some of the sharper corners. if it's a 90 deg or a sweeper it seems fine.
Look back a few pages, it part numbers have been posted a couple time already in here.
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Old 05-23-2016, 10:00 AM   #3075
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I probably already know the answer, but if I already run the brass D block and I am going to add the plate under the shorty which I have been told on here it was 50g. should I add less under the battery to account for the D block or still add the the 50g. ? or would it be better to remove the D block and just add the full 50g. under the shorty?
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