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Old 03-01-2016, 07:47 PM   #2821
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Didn't somebody post a picture of old cup bag compared to new ones, but get a set at Amain and you get new stuff. No problems on mine.
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Old 03-01-2016, 08:22 PM   #2822
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Originally Posted by thecman26 View Post
Some were saying they were, I got a first run truck so the ball cups were crap.
This.
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Old 03-02-2016, 02:02 AM   #2823
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When I built mine several months ago I got the original cups and yes they were stiff but easily fixed.
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Old 03-02-2016, 08:47 AM   #2824
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Originally Posted by thecman26 View Post
Buy 'em from Amain, they cycle through supply fast enough you're pretty sure to get an updated set. That's what I did.
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Originally Posted by QDRHRSE View Post
I haven't seen a kit in a long while that had the old cups. As long as you didn't buy a truck from a retailer that has had it sitting around for 6 months you should be fine.

I got mine from tower hobbies in Dec '15 and it still had the old ball cups. I emailed support and they sent me the updated ball cups.
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Old 03-02-2016, 04:27 PM   #2825
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Quote:
Originally Posted by highenuff89 View Post
Picked up a reedy 8.5 will be running in the mod stadium class..
As I have stated I have not raced since the 90s..
There is no stock stadium class were I will run. Most at the track run 7.5, 8.5..
Just wondering if there will be a learning curve, i.e. To much power.. If so do you recommend going to a 13.5 or just setting the esc..
Thanks again!
I'd recommend trying the motor out first before deciding if it's too much horsepower for you to handle. It'd be almost impossible to say if you'd be able to handle it unless you give it a try. Having said that, I run a 7.5-turn in my 22T and it feels just about right for my low-traction track when dialed down to 90-95%.

The easiest way to deal with a motor that's too powerful is to just turn your EPA down on the transmitter. If it's too fast/too punchy just turn your throttle EPA down about 10% and try again. It'll reduce the total amount of power delivered to motor, making your "full throttle" feel a lot less explosive. Also, if your motor has mechanical timing advanced you can reduce it (don't go negative) and it'll help to calm the motor down, too.
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Old 03-02-2016, 04:46 PM   #2826
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Yeah, I run a 6.5 in mine most of the time and it's not so much power. Just don't yank that trigger so much
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Old 03-02-2016, 05:42 PM   #2827
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Turning the punch down on your ESC will help too.
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Old 03-02-2016, 05:50 PM   #2828
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I went 10.5 > 8.5 > 6.5 ... the 6.5 is way too much motor for our track, but I got it so I could turn the timing all the way down to keep motor temps down. I still can't go more than 1/4 throttle or it wheelies out of control. I love it.
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Old 03-06-2016, 10:58 AM   #2829
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super excited to be getting my t5m this week for my bday im currently running the t4.2 wih no upgrades other then the fox shock bodies which I highly recommend I didn't think they would make a huge difference but it really does and don't mind supporting the fox collaboration since fox builds all my mx shocks anyways point of this post now , im running gear diff in my t4.2 because I really don't like ball diffs , are the gear diffs between the t4.2 and the t5m different, I did see a different part number but i've seen companies do this before to make a customer think the had to buy it because they were different I don't notice a difference between the images but maybe its minimal any help would be great any other things I should look into getting aswell would be appreciated to
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Old 03-06-2016, 05:51 PM   #2830
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I just built my T5M, glued the tires, installed the front and the wheel is just barely rubbing the front ball cup. I have the block inserts set at 4mm, which the manual says is the standard setting. I have checked the manual and everything looks like it is installed correctly. I have also checked to make sure the wheels are correct, Team Associated wheels.

Any suggestions?
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Old 03-06-2016, 09:14 PM   #2831
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The t5m uses metric bearings but the t4 doesn't so I doubt the gear diff you have will work
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Old 03-07-2016, 06:47 AM   #2832
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony Tillman View Post
I just built my T5M, glued the tires, installed the front and the wheel is just barely rubbing the front ball cup. I have the block inserts set at 4mm, which the manual says is the standard setting. I have checked the manual and everything looks like it is installed correctly. I have also checked to make sure the wheels are correct, Team Associated wheels.

Any suggestions?
Ball cups on upside down
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Old 03-07-2016, 07:35 AM   #2833
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I'm considering getting the Chrome V2 shafts with the screw on machined V2 pistons and using the stock bodies (with X-rings). I'm not sure that the fox bodies would make as big of a difference vs the cost to purchase them.

Does this make sense?
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Old 03-07-2016, 07:41 AM   #2834
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Quote:
Originally Posted by highenuff89 View Post
Picked up a reedy 8.5 will be running in the mod stadium class..
As I have stated I have not raced since the 90s..
There is no stock stadium class were I will run. Most at the track run 7.5, 8.5..
Just wondering if there will be a learning curve, i.e. To much power.. If so do you recommend going to a 13.5 or just setting the esc..
Thanks again!
I started with an 8.5 and it just wasn't enough for me. 7.5 was MUCH better.
I have the 4 gear... Probably why 8.5 didn't feel like enough.
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Old 03-07-2016, 12:14 PM   #2835
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony Tillman View Post
I just built my T5M, glued the tires, installed the front and the wheel is just barely rubbing the front ball cup. I have the block inserts set at 4mm, which the manual says is the standard setting. I have checked the manual and everything looks like it is installed correctly. I have also checked to make sure the wheels are correct, Team Associated wheels.

Any suggestions?
Are your caster blocks shimmed correctly, with 4mm trailing they should be shimmed forward. Also are the cups backwards?
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